Testament

old shifter hole closed, and deceptively tricky lump to clear powerglide shifter linkage and hole for shifter cable more cardboard technology and rear floor area sorted more or less will get 2 flat covers for accessing the fuel system and suspension areas next onto stitching frankentubs back together. horrible job prepping all the edges in this ruthless heat grinding dust and old seam sealer and underbody bog junk of foulness everywhere but got it done then lined up the old outer tubs 40mm higher up and began patching in the gaps

you cant remove hydrogen embrittlement onces its there, but you can put other chemicals with the acid to inhibit the effect.

just like she said, depends how strong and how long

a lot to be said for running the reg in the tank even and not needing a return line. works fine if you are going to be tuning the ecu anyway and are not looking at running lots of boost.

White vinegar works pretty good too

arduino adventure XI: Roman goes hard

what are ya on about, never had a complaint must be something you've done

I think when you dig a hole this deep it might technically become a tunnel?

hardly anyone knew what they were doing ten years ago so everyone made mistakes when installing and tuning them. the hardware hasn't really changed all that much tbh but they do all the same things as most all of the other tuneable ecus and the tuning software has got alot better. but mostly having a wideband and knowing what you are trying to achieve and how to use the software to change the different parameters as required is the big thing once its all wired up correctly. so yeah will probably run terrible just get a microtech with only 8 cells to tune and it will be mint

6 injection drivers will work with batch fire two injections per cycle provided you time the injection event so that its not injecting during overlap. maybe not ideal but it will work. also wow only a british would put the distributor there.

have a good google, I have a feeling these might be the same as a thermal arc 181i / tweco 181i I know my cigweld 250i is the same as a thermal arc 252i as cigweld/thermal arc have the same parent company. now esab I think, was victor technologies before I believe. but yeah do some research into that because you will find a lot more review/info on the net for the thermal arc products as they are whats sold in the USA, so if it is the same that gives you more information to make your decision on.

I believe its 80 pieces of bitcoin

finally made up a couple of outdoor tables I had been meaning to make for ages, one for home and one for family place up north. mostly leftover decking timber from dads projects and some pipe leftover from some work job years ago plus a bit of SS square tube. was some good tig practice and then suffering through drilling a million holes in stainless lol. only one broken drill so not too bad really I think there is a bit more decking leftover up north I need to nab to make some bench seats but that can wait till next year now

I think 10m2 will be sufficient for some serious thinking and contemplation if not you can install a WC

jeez just look what those kids have done to your lawn

galant/fto is another

k24

don't have any showing whats inside I can easily find but its a real pickapart special. rover bw35 trans, old Datsun transfer case, hilux diffs, seats from a Honda city and yes that's one bank of the exhaust going across the bottom of the windscreen to the other side because there is no room past the steering box when it was going it went great/goes hard for what it is

kind of irrelevant but mates run a pump salvaged from a F&P dishwasher in the inorganic rubbish collection powered by a dick smith 12v to 240v inverter - this is in addition to the rover/Leyland hope and pray paddlewheel on the front the the p76 motor in their offroad Suzuki 410 - this is to get flow to the v12 jag radiator mounted in the rear door. just a manual switch on it. cooling was never a problem again after that was added. plenty of other problems though!

these look legit https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/16/61/Fuse_Blocks/ST_Blade I wish I found this stuff before I re did the wiring on the fiat lol. what a mare.

fuel line fastening query HCTM doesn't differentiate mounting spacings for hard line vs flexible line? this seems a bit silly. like if I used the factory 5/16 hard line it has about 4 mounts each around a meter apart and that's fine because OEM, but if I run a new hard line (in larger diameter) through a different route I need mounts every 300mm? maybe there is an update I don't have? Just seems kind of ridiculous for 1/2" stainless tubing to need supports at 300mm spacing. would probably just use flexible the whole way if I have to stick to 300mm spacing.

it sounds like you have the fuel pump (and injector) relay switched off the key and not of the ecu as it should be (as shown in the diagram), or alternatively the relay has failed in the switched on position. in either case you should really sort that. when its wired up correctly you key on and the ecu should power up and it will run the fuel pump for a second or so to prime the fuel rail then switch off. but for the injector issue as alluded to there must be some path you ground on the negative side wiring of the injectors - for them to open there is power getting to them (from your relay issue) AND that power getting back to ground via some path which it shouldn't be. when its operating correctly the ground goes through the ecu and that is what it switches to control your injection. maybe have a look at how the resistors are mounted and thigns like that - its probably not a strong ground leak as if it was the injectors would be just 100% open and the car wouldn't run.

Did you fill out the ross spec sheet form yourself? or send your specific instructions in an email or letter? did you see what the agent filled out and sent to ross? http://www.rosspistons.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Order-Form.pdf my guess would be the fault is with the agent as im pretty sure ross would have required that form and made to meet that spec. But if you don't have any of those things in written form the agent could be real a dick about it if they are and old hat belligerent barry im the race parts guy and I know best kind of crowd. the dome size is not that big of an issue but +1mm and 30% heavier than the stock piston is not really acceptable if you asked for lightweight n/a for high rpm and stock bore.

that one is no so straightforward - jeep front diffs are offset to the left where hiluxes are offset to the right. I don't know if the jeep transfer case would just bolt straight to the Toyota r154. then there is also potential driveshaft length differences. so you would need to do a fair bit of research to figure out what would work. may be cheaper to just import a complete ax15 gearbox/transfer pedalbox (although that would probably need mods since LHD) from uncle sam. but reality is its probably just not worth it - people like to hate on autos but differences are more in perception and feeling rather than real world capability and performance. infact autos have quite a few benefits offroad in some respects. +1, also keen to know what makes the newer ones worse? that is contrary to some of the information in the links above.