Testament

Just with a grinder. the new bellhousing bolts to the pump so you just trim until nothing fouls. milling it would make a nicer finish but functionally wouldn't make any difference. process was basically marking up where to cut with tape/sharpie pen etc. it is a little tricky in getting a good reference because from memory the bottom of the gearbox where the pan bolts on is not 90degrees to the plane of the pump/input/output shaft so you cant just plop it on the bench and reference it directly.

Hey I run a two lobe on a 4cyl haha Yeah I have a tuning issue at present where there is a random intake backfire resulting in 2bar+ pressure spike in the intake manifold....and I removed that valve because it was in the way of installing the fuel injectors in the manifold......

what about brunox? sheepers seems to use that a bit? panel shop who did some work on my old delta used it for small stuff as well seems like it is ok for small areas were you cant fully clean things 100% because shit access and don't want to cut out the whole thing because massive job and its not a visible area?

except british and rubbish? I guess if you fit a six throttle intake and squish your head a lot it might kinda look like a Z? jokes aside, I hope you have found yourself a sparklingly sweet lemon mr supercar!

as above ^ lowering the cross member will probably change geometry for the worse, especially if you are planning on lowering the car. nothing ever just drops in on swap like these. you chop the firewall and move the heater and some other things will have to be changed too no doubt. not that its bad its just how it is. hacking the sump and moving the engine around in the engine bay is probably easier in the long run unless you are looking to get the motor in a certain location for weight balance or some other reason.

have enough bits kicking around to put together another powerglide

every time ive thought about the idea of using two stroke boat motors in non water based things I have wondered if you need to change your piston to bore clearances, like your coolant cirucit in a car is never going to be close to that of once through water cooling. maybe thats just my engineer brain over thinking it though.

I think the v4 jonsons were 90hp in boat trim so 150hp with intake spannies and more rpm sounds about right. definitely interested to hear if it sounds wildly gargly like the boats but angrier anyway good job, keep up the good work!

will probably do better than 15L/100km if driven with economy in mind. maybe even down to 11 or 12 is not inconceivable but does depend on how much effort is put into tuning low/part load, overall weight, wind, aircon, tyres. the old motor would have been bad if it had a big cam and only medium compression with a loose convertor meaning you would end up having to lean on it at lower rpm before the lockup would engage just to get it to move around town. are you sure the LS9 gaskets are OK on the 4.8? the 4.8 has a smaller bore (same as LS1 I think) and tbh any of the MLS type factory gaskets appear to do the job well and can even be reused in a pinch

yeah normally should only take 30secs. my take on the lc-1/lc-2 is they aren't as bad as people make out, its usually shortcuts in the install that are the issue. like a lot of electronics they are real picky about grounds and esp common grounds between ecu, gauge and controller if you want to see the same numbers everywhere. I have found even then needing to have a voltage offset in the ecu but that is almost certainly to do with my own wiring issues. probably because i've got it running off the same relay power supply as the fuel pumps. the warmup and fault outputs as well as a bunch of other things can be adjusted with logworks - which is one of the other finicky things that I find. you must have the LC1/2 on and reading (i.e. car running or unit powered on) BEFORE plugging the usb/serial into the laptop and opening logworks. for whatever reason it wont find it as an active com port if you have it plugged in to the laptop already and then start the car/power up the unit. if you want to do it without the car running you need to unplug the sensor from the wideband - which is the number 1 pain of all the things using the bosch sensors - that damn plug design is such a pita to unplug. my thumb hurts just thinking about it. The good thing about the lc1/2 is that they are full digital and have great response time which was way better than a lot of the competition for a long time as well and being the best value then too. not sure now with some of the newer options like the 14point7 and Spartan being pretty affordable and imagine things have mostly caught up now with the price of electronics components etc getting so low making processing speeds etc. a non issue.

will depend how grabby the clutch is too. i.e. it makes it trickier with an on/off puk clutch but with a full face that that's less grabby you probably wont notice it much as you have more time to react with the clutch or throttle

because he wants the job finished not piles of mess everywhere a broken brand new fence with no one else to blame

bonus points for finding the submerged power stations actually that reminds me I need to go see the first geothermal generator in NZ, powered the spa hotel in 1940 or something like that. apparently there is a little musem somewhere near the airport that an old barry opens up during school holidays or something and he has it there, might even still be operational I dunno.

Transpower put out a map with all the power stations and and substations

not all but some. it is a process used. fully synthetic is made somewhat like that in some processes. basically if you throw enough energy and science at things with carbons and hydrogens you can make whatever length chains with bits on the end that you like. you can start with gas, oil, or even coal or trees. then you just have to burn a lot of coal or trees and expensive proprietary catalysts to get it to fall to bits and stick back together in the form or whatever else it is you want out.

no. M119 + 88mm choocher

is that the same colour as lees ranch?

so you are saying there is a material difference in the injector opening time with differing fuel pressure DP in the range of 4 to 6 bar? while we are talking opening times in the order of 1ms i suppose, but I'm going to need some convincing on that. it doesn’t seem to me that it should effect the operation of the solenoid that much. if that made that much difference then so would engine bay/injector body temperature

you are being fussy the flow of the injectors is still going to be repeatable, its just as boost rises/vacuum decays the amount of injector opening time for the same additional volume of fuel wont be perfectly linear but neither is is engines need for fuel necessarily - hence the need to tune rather than just going about this whole business 100% mathematically. plenty of modern cars run like this too. but the main point of it is that it is alot tidier in some respects, a little cheaper (less fitttings and line needed) and if the car never had a return line you can use the original hardline which makes things super easy. so nah not "ideal" but definitely works just fine

ceramic heater tap?

you only need one crank wheel and sensor to a run wasted spark coil pack setup

modulistic terror a foul sadistic feast there's only one way out of here going piece by piece to the laundry that is might be able to do some washing soon

you really really want to put a fan get air flowing through from the top (cold air from outside) and down into the engine bay. air to airs ontop of the engine are so compromised on 4x4s offroad because you have no forward speed for the scoop to do anything, instead you end up having a chimney where air heated by the exhaust, radiator and engine block is flowing up through the intercooler and not doing anything good for IATs.

I don't recall it saying anything specific in the HTCM to do with minimum droop but 40mm is probably reasonable. Reality it is a function of vehicle weight to wheel rate/effective spring rate e.g. super stiff circuit car spring rates might only have 10-30mm of droop and give a skittery teeth rattling ride on the average nz road. or the other one is if the shocks have been shortened so much to keep super short springs captive that could also limit droop depending on the specific details of the suspension in question.