Testament

TBH with that setup id even be looking at 3.5" for at least the front section does depend how much hps and rpms you are talking though. and how much you value the free hps and quicker spool less backpressure nets you.

actually so many choices haha https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?trafficChannel=main&d=y&CatId=0&SearchText=crankshaft+position+sensor&ltype=wholesale&SortType=total_tranpro_desc&groupsort=1&page=1

Cherry GS100701 is the usual one have used on a few projects with good success. they are nice because you can adjust the gap with the threaded body https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensors/7659321/ you can find them a little cheaper from overseas maybe. or you might find an equivalent on aliexpress for less. that said you might be able to scrounge or buy an OEM style one from an efi car that uses a geartooth type crank position sensor. e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Crankshaft-ZonCar-0031532728-0261210170-Mercedes-Benz/dp/B07W4JZR3V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=crankshaft+position+sensor&qid=1570063554&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWEc5TktGUUEwVkdRJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDEwOTIxM1JHUFZVMVQzN09NRCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDAyMjYyMU5HV0ZUNU9BMFk5RSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= the only thing is you will need to get the datasheet info to find out if you need to put any resistors in the wiring to get it to suit the ecu - you do need to do that with the cherry sensors but it is listed in the documentation what resistance value to use. with an OEM sensor you may or may not - something you would have to figure out.

may need to consider increasing the chamfer on the wheels transition from mounting face to hub bore so the spacer has enough meat, or consider steel rather than aluminium if its very thin

does bumper to bumper takanini friday afternoon traffic help due to lower wind resistance/drafting effect?

It's pretty avg. Durepox or similar two part epoxy primer is what you want as said 124 times in this thread before.

Full face is really nice, they don't fog up, but yeah quite a bit spendier. 3m Half mask with filters are pretty affordable from most industrial supplies places.

Both maybe?

this is on the 124 with supercharged 2L. its 2.5" with a 2.5" coby and currently a 2.25" turbo style on the back as it was too noisy with a 2.5" straight through. both were just cheapies form chase. the whole thing is a bit crap as I have modified it a few times over the years and it gets banged up pretty often as there isn't much room to tuck things up under the 124 chassis which then makes vband clamps and flanges leak. Also depending on how link/sequential tuning goes I could end up taking the S/C off and going turbo so Im thinking of going larger pipe size to future proof. Thinking oval tube so still 2.5" deep but 4" wide, similar flow to between 3" and 3.5" . There really is only room for 2 silencing things, one before the diff ~ 400mm x 225mm and at the back similar size and has to be pretty shallow for a muffler, cant be much more than 125mm deep so no barrel type with dumpy tip may apply good to know, I have been looking at their stuff, not cheap but when you compare to shipping similar spec stuff in it works out OK.

check the negative/earth connections of the batteries to the chassis and engine to chassis if you can, bad connections there could also cause poor cranking while hemis explanation sounds plausible it seems very odd that you would even know the oil got overheated without a temp gauge unless he has some story about the thing seizing up and smoking out of the breather or oil cap with the temp gauge cold or something like that. Which he would have told you? or is he being a bit cagey about exactly what happened to it?

def favourite car/bathtub of the event so well done. was cool to meet old dennis too still cant get over how tiny everything is, like 3/8" wheel stud or something haha

yeah go mang only not sure about rivnut comment. I cant fully picture exactly how that works but using even a large rivnut to hold in something associated with suspension parts in difficult to access location seems likely to cause you trouble. at the very least the chance of a shitty thread galling causing the rivnut to spin before you tighten it up or similar. a fixed stud or bolt tacked to a sandwich plate or something like that might be more robust and less likely to be a pita. but maybe I don't understand exactly how this is going together and there is no load involved/it's just holding it there until the shocks go in or something.

larger size piping with resonator and turbo or baffle type muffler vs larger size piping with two turbo or baffle type mufflers vs smaller piping with resonator and straight through muffler thoughts on performance/loudness? e.g . say 2.5" vs 3" on 200hp engine

jeep 4.0 fuel injected so it works properly goes forever dirt cheap parts also dirt cheap jeep AW4 is actually an aisin A340 so can probably swap bellhousing around to fit to other a340s or maybe w series manual? (AX15 manual was actually a W55 or something) can anchor large container ships if required

the other thing great about the factory rad is it will fit with 100% certainty without any additional pain in the arse things later on e.g. now the spanner doesn't fit to undo the water pump or some other stupid thing that always happens when you modify cars.

Sunday 10th Feb?

yeah def trick for young players on any gearbox with non factory clutch flywheel setup. concentric slave cylinders maybe more forgiving? although im sure there will be a travel limit there too. basically best to setup and test before fitting engine and gearbox to car if at all possible. /lingpost

This is fleeting with danger of making future Mr bronzes life a worse place for the sake of a helicoil set Having not the right spanner for putting metric/imperial bolts in opposite thread holes and other surprises lay down that path in the future

this exhaust noise thing brings up another question while you said baffles etc should need tools to be removed but what about the case of a baffle to make the exhaust quiet for oldman reasons basically similar to a lot of modern supercars/high performance cars that have some kind of varex type butterfly valve thing in the exhaust the idea being with the valve open the exhaust is louder - but still passes noise requirements but with the valve closed the car is proper quiet for nice cruising/not upsetting everyone when you are just going to get a bottle of mlik from the servo?

LS is narrower /smaller..............

Ooer nice. This is of interest to me. Do you know what ecu they used? Factory Honda or something else?

.5mm is 20thou Old Barry machinist would drive a truck through that! Heck the rough/getrdun guy at work was called ten thou ted sometimes Only needs as much clearance as there is play in the bearings + 1x beesdick So by the squeeling of your impeller it is now right.

could not get over how this was the only thing that would hook up at drag day. great burnouts and better motivation off the line than the gtr lol. once again so well done, much claps _b

worth and value dont really come into the equation at this point its all because stubborn like slav haha the shit running is definitely fuel related so I am confident i'll get it sorted, under normal driving and cruise conditions it has all of the torque and is great to cruise around in with supercharger soundtrack going on. centre console, the ashtray goes and you have to cut out the bridge piece at the front side of the ashtray/slightly hack up the thing. I still need to make a new cover piece for the top and get a new gearlever boot thing which should hide the edges that were cut to clear the 131R shifter.

keep up the good work man got to keep what few of these left around to put those snarky sedans in their place at the back of the que!