Testament

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Everything posted by Testament

  1. also I was referring to lowering the LCA inner pivot not the outer. the problem with that is it will help the bump steer but result in more positive camber change under compression which is not ideal either. its a relationship of the curve the hub goes through (which depends on the dimensions and suspension type) and the curve the rack end goes through. if you can measure all the dimensions of the suspension pivots etc you can plot it which is probably the best way to get your head around what is happening.
  2. Factory doesn't mean no bump steer, some factory cars are awful. Also the actual centrepoint of the arc the hub goes through is likely above the LCA pivot and further inboard because the hub stays more upright as the arm goes up. minimise bump steer = minimise toe change through suspension movement. ideal is none but often not achievable. whats acceptable exactly depends on the vehicle and you need to check with your certifier but from the lvvta factsheet. A degrees per mm of travel rule of thumb would be nice but I think this is left open to allow the certifier to make reasonable decisions for different vehicles requirements, e.g a 4x4 or a oldschool hotrod are going to have different acceptable limits to a lotus 7 or sports car with lots of tyre and frim suspension as the limiting factors when making evasive manoeuvres are different. It's really about the handling being consistent and predictable. probably already seen this I am guessing https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2010_Bump-steer_Measurement_Background_Information.pdf
  3. here is your problem 50mm is a big change. spacers at the rack ends will only help with making small adjustments and will rob peter to pay paul, i.e will help in one part of the suspension arc but make it worse in another. the key part is the inner pivot point being as close as practical to the pivot of the lower control arm, or really the centrepoint of the arc that the tie rod end mount on the hub travels. you need to raise your rack up or lower your LCA mount to minimise the bump steer.
  4. theyre cheap enough now its almost worth just trying to see how it goes. some things can stuff with the sensor though, like leaded fuel shortens their life probably because some things coat something on the sensor so if theres some other off gasses or particles in the vent line it might not last long. do you know what type of sensor the old expensive one was?
  5. pretty common for this to be the case, gearbox gear the same as its much cheaper/easier to design it so you only need to change the small gear. the probably just have more/less tooth contact depending on the number of teeth and it doesnt matter because the load is ngeligible. you want more turns of the speedo end per turn of the gearbox output shaft so if the existing gear is 18 teeth you want one with less teeth/what johnnyfive said the other option is to take the clear plastic cover off and use some twink to change the numbers on the speedo. the correct reading for a landcruiser on the extreme right hand side of the dial is "PERIL"
  6. tbh not so convinced of v bands after running them for a while on a low car. they are a lot more vulnerable to damage and leaks from the exhaust taking hits than a regular flange setup. great for ease of fitment and if the exhaust is tucked up and not getting road rash.
  7. the excess fuel was because it was injecting during overlap, and with the large injectors that time during overlap was a large proportion of the total fuel being injected getting blown out through into the exhaust. Worse with it being a supercharged engine, so a lot of exhaust blowdown during overlap from intake pressure > exhaust pressure its a bit messy on my sketch but what I think I was showing there is red \\\\ hash exhaust valve open period blue //// hash intake valve open period yellow highlight is overlap $ish scribble is spark event (wasted spark setup) light blue highlight is injection 360 deg takes 8ms numbers are cam and ignition timing cylinder pairing for injection and ignition 1+4 and 2+3 total require fuel is I think 6.68ms per cylinder there, and overlap is something like 1.5ms so injecting during overlap means 20ish% could disappear, splitting the injection up this way means only half that amount has the potential to go out the exhaust as the second half is all injected while the intake valve is open so should almost all end up in the cylinder. at lower rpm this could be even worse as the overlap time is much longer.
  8. corrected, 4 squirts, alternating then
  9. I found this made a huge difference on the 124, likely due to oversized injectors and very short runners 2 squirts per cycle alternating I think is what they call it. with two injector drivers each one firing every 360 degrees but 180 apart. each cylinder then gets half of its fuel at the right time and half 360 deg out at the wrong time. before my engine would get to somewhere around 4500rpm and just pop and fart and not run for crap but if you held jandal it would clear up over 6000rpm somewhat. also the tailpipe always stank of raw fuel at idle. switching to this and timing the half of the fuel at the right time to finish injecting just after exhaust valve closing made the engine rev clean right out and I had to pull out about 20% fuel or something. just now it has some other issues, less fuel going through and I think the ridiculous IAT's at low and no load with no air bypass valve around the supercharger are causing random intake backfires, probably off the hot surface of the back of the intake valve or something like that.
  10. electronic ignition definite upgrade if on points at present. usually later model engine might have a compatible distributor but I dont know toyota m_aybe series details. programmable ignition would be even better but more involved to setup. still would be mostly wires and a couple of sensors so less than installing a fuel system needing pump and manifold and lines etc. etc. this is vaguely topical
  11. the tyre compound is more important than the tread pattern in general. but I wouldnt be all that worried if the car has original brakes and engine, and you know the car and drive it to its braking and cornering abilities. Get what you can that looks right, if possible from one of the more well known tyre companys, in whichever has the softest compound if you have that choice. ie michellin, yokohama, bridgestone, toyo etc. not cheapo plastic china brand that comes in a plastic bag and has less grip than a mcdonalds tray.
  12. rough and ready way would be to look at the likely power of your motor and choose carbs from a bike of similar power level this is presuming you are using 1 throttle/carb per cylinder and the bike was as well. another way would be comparing to side draft choke sizing for one throttle per cylinder off the top of my head for a 4cyl this very roughly goes something like 32mm - 120hp 34mm - 150hp 36mm - 180hp
  13. I've got some spreadsheets that can grind about as much as a 9" if you need man
  14. The problem is the entire SWB 70 series landcruiser. Repeated testing with both factory rear exit and side exit exhaust on SWB 70 series landcruier at open road speeds recorded exhaust fume levels in all passenger seating positions sufficient to poison passengers with the side windows open or closed.
  15. Testament

    diesel spam

    good things take time
  16. Just with a grinder. the new bellhousing bolts to the pump so you just trim until nothing fouls. milling it would make a nicer finish but functionally wouldn't make any difference. process was basically marking up where to cut with tape/sharpie pen etc. it is a little tricky in getting a good reference because from memory the bottom of the gearbox where the pan bolts on is not 90degrees to the plane of the pump/input/output shaft so you cant just plop it on the bench and reference it directly.
  17. Hey I run a two lobe on a 4cyl haha Yeah I have a tuning issue at present where there is a random intake backfire resulting in 2bar+ pressure spike in the intake manifold....and I removed that valve because it was in the way of installing the fuel injectors in the manifold......
  18. Testament

    PAINT THREAD

    what about brunox? sheepers seems to use that a bit? panel shop who did some work on my old delta used it for small stuff as well seems like it is ok for small areas were you cant fully clean things 100% because shit access and don't want to cut out the whole thing because massive job and its not a visible area?
  19. except british and rubbish? I guess if you fit a six throttle intake and squish your head a lot it might kinda look like a Z? jokes aside, I hope you have found yourself a sparklingly sweet lemon mr supercar!
  20. as above ^ lowering the cross member will probably change geometry for the worse, especially if you are planning on lowering the car. nothing ever just drops in on swap like these. you chop the firewall and move the heater and some other things will have to be changed too no doubt. not that its bad its just how it is. hacking the sump and moving the engine around in the engine bay is probably easier in the long run unless you are looking to get the motor in a certain location for weight balance or some other reason.
  21. have enough bits kicking around to put together another powerglide
  22. yeah normally should only take 30secs. my take on the lc-1/lc-2 is they aren't as bad as people make out, its usually shortcuts in the install that are the issue. like a lot of electronics they are real picky about grounds and esp common grounds between ecu, gauge and controller if you want to see the same numbers everywhere. I have found even then needing to have a voltage offset in the ecu but that is almost certainly to do with my own wiring issues. probably because i've got it running off the same relay power supply as the fuel pumps. the warmup and fault outputs as well as a bunch of other things can be adjusted with logworks - which is one of the other finicky things that I find. you must have the LC1/2 on and reading (i.e. car running or unit powered on) BEFORE plugging the usb/serial into the laptop and opening logworks. for whatever reason it wont find it as an active com port if you have it plugged in to the laptop already and then start the car/power up the unit. if you want to do it without the car running you need to unplug the sensor from the wideband - which is the number 1 pain of all the things using the bosch sensors - that damn plug design is such a pita to unplug. my thumb hurts just thinking about it. The good thing about the lc1/2 is that they are full digital and have great response time which was way better than a lot of the competition for a long time as well and being the best value then too. not sure now with some of the newer options like the 14point7 and Spartan being pretty affordable and imagine things have mostly caught up now with the price of electronics components etc getting so low making processing speeds etc. a non issue.