kpr

Nar sorry, ones ive been using were bran new. ( they are about 220 on amayama) yeah the small gear. it kinda looks like its backwards when its in the right way

Ive pulled one of those (vvti pulley) apart a million times. pretty basic. but can put the together backwards hah. only thing i suggest doing is sitting it on the cam and making sure it freely rotates through tis whole travel. there isn't really anything that locates them central, if get them a little off can bind up at at one end of the travel. I usually put it on the cam and rotate it back and forward nipping up the bolts.

Soo, i finally tested the airbox. turns out there is less in it that i thought. not really any difference worth worrying about. few kw. what was actually worse, was the filter by itself in the engine bay. even with the bonnet open it made a little less power than both airboxes that pull cold air. oh well least the new one matches rest of the engine bay now i guess I also acquired this thing, its yellow and rusty. no real plans for it. but its kinda cool how it is, and actually runs super nice i threw it on the dyno today for a laugh after finishing up the tune on the white one. 3y, 2L or raw power. smashed out a massive 49.9kw which isnt too bad considering its rated at 65kw makes a couple more kw than the 4a at 1500rpm. the scaling maybe off slightly in favor to the 3y, but yeah..

Valve to valve isn't an issue in my case either with wide angle head. piston to valve = yes. The exhaust cam timing is not so much that it can be off and work. it needs to be right and when its right, its pretty happy to work across the whole rev range. when its off it kinda sucks almost everywhere

So there was some cyclone thing and i lost power for almost a week. The plan was to re-tune it. as was never 100% happy how it was setup, after going to itb's some time ago This engine has always had staged injection. as when built the engine for trueno, i was too cheap to buy big injectors. so used 8x 295's had hanging around which worked all good. when going to the bmw itb's, they have injector ports in them which suit the long nose injectors. so used the same 980cc injectors as the starlet. so 295 primary 980 secondary. staging was never bang on and did some weird stuff. but nothing noticable to drive or harmful to engine. So attempting to re-tune it, i basically ended up in the same place the transition was all over the shop and extra fuel compensation was way more that than it should have been. The first part of the problem due to lack of info, and injectors being so different. if the primary and 2ndry injectors are the same, doesn't matter deadtimes and the likes are a bit off. second problem get to that later. Soo decided just bin the primary injectors, and run the big ones Now the my peasant g3 link only has 2 injector drivers. even with the injectors wired into 2 groups, was getting the epic fuel hammer. which sounded like a big end knock so off to zebra to pinch all the fuel dampers. (some cars have them most dont) Test fit seemed to fix the issue Now had to block some injector holes so could bin the factory rail. Probably should have driven to the shop and brought proper tapered plugs and tap. but holes were already right size for m12 tap, which i had. can just unscrew them and injectors will fit as normal if need to at later date. Also block is muddy.. Thats the damper thing on top of the banjo fitting. i think it was off a 1gfe! Had to move feed location on rail so cleared plenum ^^^^^^ When was doing this i just happened to blow through one of the fuel regs. yeah you shouldn't be able to do that! wasnt sealing off This was my 2nd problem having to compensate will too much fuel under high/er boost. the pump could hold pressure at lower load but when fuel demand went up, reg would bypass to much fuel and drop pressure. i must have picked up a dud reg out of my piles of junk, when originally made the rail for the itb's So, 2 weeks later. try tuning it again for the 3rd time?? tune at low boost first. everything working as it should Turn it up. still works. amazing! ^ These runs are in 3rd gear with 31' tyres. usually see up to 10kw more when run rwd in 1:1 gear. so probs in the 240's if could run in 4th. but thats about 500kph in this thing pretty good for stock cam engine . will drop the boost back to 1 bar and sort out the lazy boost curve, just wanted to make sure the fueling does what it should. TL;DR had fueling issues. engine make 236kw on 17psi. still haven't tested airbox

If you wanted to try something in the meantime, you could take the spacers out of the plenum. Have some thick head flanges cut to space the manifold out at the head end, lengthening the intake runner. Maybe a couple at 25mm so can stack them see what works best. I'm guessing around 50mm would do the trick. Maybe could get them cut from something for some thermal insulation at the same time.

runner diameter being a bit oversized isn't actually much of an issue. unless its way oversized. length is probably an issue though. you can see its doing something weird on the dyno sheet, which is most likely the intake runner length. looks like its wanting to work at 8500. which makes the dip at 7500. if the runners were a bit longer (most likely factory length) so it was tuned for 7800-8000rpm would make more power. its something that can be shuffled with the cam timing to a point also. your tuner probably should have already tried that though. Ideally get those itb's on and make the intake runners way longer. nothing off the shelf will get you there either due to fitment issues, or too hard to make.

Oh and the intake plenum size. probably aren't loosing any power there, unless your loosing some effect from the intake tube. bigger plenum damping out the pressure waves, unsure how much of a thing that is. There will be a little bit in getting the intake tube the right length and size. but wouldn't expect big numbers from it.

Yeah numbers are degrees, but but dont reference to anything other than the pulley position . 0 being fully retarded. from memory you can change it, so it shows referenced to crank position. but it just makes it confusing to setup/tune

Yeah you can see the actual timing (yellow) misses the target (pink) by a little when you get back on the gas. but by the time your at full throttle its matching the target. top one is your current "vvt" map. since race car and assuming you dont care about fuel economy, I'd run something more like the bottom. or a less aggressive ramp at least. so your always on target when get back on the gas. Not really much of an issue in your case but thought would explain it better. Ive compared mine, which essentially mimics at 1j/2j setup vs @Roman daves 1nz setup and seems to react pretty similar. yours seems a little faster. either a honda thing or the control is a little better in g4x

I was going to comment about probably changing the cam timing map. so it doesn't go to zero cam advance when throttle is closed. due to the mechanical time it takes the cam to re advance when get back on the throttle. but looked in the log and looks like it keeps real well. nice one mr honda. so isn't really that much of an issue. possibly a little more crisp on the throttle if changed it. As for what cam timing it needs. will need to be done per engine. unless 100% stock to 100% stock. as changes to the intake and exhaust will change what cam timing it likes. The shape of the cam timing map looks right. starts to retard at high rpm etc This as part of the log @Hyperblade posted. cam stuff at the bottom The vvti control works real well even on my old g4 link.

So I went to put this thing back together. but I had stolen the 3-4" silicone hose for the intake for the 20v. Said silicone hose connected to the airbox i made from the stock 2L airbox This thing loses 5kw vs just the filter by itself. likely due to the lack of area around the filter. plus the inlet in the side even though its 3" Ive never made a better one because lack of space. plus would be a diddle to make something such and odd shape. When done the intercooler i freed up a little more space and moved the ps reso to the other side. So thought i should at least attempt it straight away made my own life hard using the same big 4" inlet filter. made a 3 - 4" cone that had to be cut into the lid of box on an angle. yeah it probably would have been easier to make the top bolt onto the box rather than the end. but cant make things too easy cutout on the bottom to clear intercooler pipe 4" inlet. needed to make inlet big as possible to cover up my sins of using a 90 silicone bend off the side. i had first made a ali bend/ cone to go in the side, but couldn't get the box in/out of the truck. I only added a little rubber mount at the front, to hold it in place off the body. It just hangs off the silicone joiners at the other end. Wasn't sold there would be enough flex in the silicone joiner between turbo and airbox, if solid mounted airbox to body . since the body is rubber mounted to the chassis, it can move around a bit. First thing to eat shit would be the turbo. next, to see if it actually works

There is a excel 4 link calculator floating around which is good. Its pretty hard to get a textbook setup. will likely end up with a compromise somewhere. but so is most factory stuff. I would suggest having a few extra holes either side of what the calculator spits out, at least one end of your links, where room is available. From what i can tell the "instant center" is just a dumbed down way of getting you in the ballpark, that comes from all the other numbers being about right. there is lots to it, some of it doesn't matter too much depending what your trying to achieve, other stuff does.

They will rev cut if throttle is closed and revs go over x amount. if not running the water lines to throttle body, will idle higher when warms up. as uses the water temp to slow idle. might get away with adjusting idle screw or throttle stop. otherwise vac leak somewhere

I tried the outboard injection again . probably easiest to watch the video than me trying to explain it. but the gist of it, seems like theirs a tiny bit in it cooling or mixture wise. maybe 1-2kw but it seems like to me, that it moves the tuned intake length around a bit. shorter runner acts more like a longer one. It did make 167kw though. which i think is the new record

sorry just seen this. the cam pulley sizes are the same between 16v and 20v engines. 36 tooth. is the bigger round tooth pitch. i forget the numbers now. I couldn't find much that matched to pitch and tooth count when was hunting for pulleys awhile back. most were 40 tooth. or the smaller pitch

I get asked punishing requests every day. just happened to read this before going to fill up at gasser. absolute zero effort to tune any thing for economy. and its borderline tuned properly for cruise atm. but put this here for reference next time is on dyno as i'll forget the numbers. yeah it pulls 4000rpm at 100k. so never going to be prius spec haha. its like a cyclone out, and road wasn't completely flat so somewhere. ran it both ways. probably 8.5% throttle is 100k on dead flat. vvti 40 degrees. so have 40 to go full prius/retard. the dyno hp readout doesn't have enough resolution to do cruise stuff. but using the torque numbers and running in a lower gear to mulitply the torque, for more resolution works well.

Nothing too exotic in the engine itself, other than the vvti setup of course. All off the shelf parts in the bottom end. Head mostly the same. but is a bit of money in getting the bigger valves in there. new seats and stuff. Once start adding all the supporting stuff on guess is going to be pretty spendy. dont really want to add it up haha. If counted the time Ive spent on it, that would be by far the biggest cost

tried shortening the intake 30mm as the vvti turd seemed to like it. This thing said no. red is normal intake length rest are 30mm shorter with various vvti settings. nothing would pull the dip out and didnt make anymore peak tried air filter on/ off zero change in power Shut the bonnet, = 2kw more. same thing the turd engine did. Along with doing a few more tweaks to the vvti map and tune. managed to fill the dip before 8k. compared to last time: curve looks super nice for something with 300deg cams

wow.

so managed to get a little more advance out of it. another 5kw on the bottom end. power curve looking pretty sweet now. Rpm scale slightly off on this one. forgot change it when adding the stockish engine run (pink) Vs the 318/304 hvc cams, filled in the holes nicely. should drive heaps better. really nothing in it top end wise. Its even better than it looks on paper, since runs way nicer with the vvti and smaller cams

Managed to get it to start ok without putting a limiter in pulley. had to crack the throttles open quite a bit to let more air in. and messed with tune and cold start settings alot Only makes 70psi on compression tester when cranking. usually well over 250psi. can feel it blowing air back the throttles on compression stroke! so ive basically done the opposite of @Roman and turned my 4age into a prius engine. It actually idles best at full retard. like it has some weak little cams. The vvti is pretty slow it react. but 99% sure its just the oil feed line. i had to come off the oil pressure sensor hole. just used an an4 line had hanging around. will change to an6 see if fixes. Going to try get a little more advance out of it, piston to valve already pretty tight but, i'll gamble bending some valves for a little more, as it still gaining midrange with pulley maxed out. will also help with the prius engine issue. Good news is, its making good power on smaller cams. vvti setup is using 304/300 cams. Below is vs the 318/304 was running at os drags ignore the bump at end.. dyno being a diddle

VVTi version 3.0 up and running, on good engine. this time using stock pulley sizes Got issues with way too much travel on the 304deg cam though. its setup so max advance is just before piston to valve contact. Which isn't far off where i normally run this cam fixed. max retard is whatever the pulley travel is back the other way max retard is the pulley in "relaxed" position, so its at max retard when cranking. the ecu is reporting 69degrees travel, which is lots. since the cam is so big, it means the intake valves are open waaay into the compression stroke. No drama once engine is running, as can advance the cam. getting it running is the problem, its like trying start an engine with about 3:1 compression. I'll try a few more things in the tune. But best solution is going to be limiting to the pulley travel. 30-40degrees will be plenty enough, and should hopefully start a whole lot easier. Early days, but otherwise every thing seems good. no leaks and advances and retards like it should.

depends what your trying to do. ok if you just want a bit more power. but turbos have come a long way in the last 20-30 years.. get some newer tech on there, same spool more power and/ or easier on engine at same power

Ol mate @Dudley not quite gettin them shots on the camera