kpr

I havent done any v8 stuff. but on  4 cylinder 1.6L  making around 175hp at engine.  this is close to ideal setup ,   after the collector its 2"  then tapers up after the vband to  3" into a   glass pack.   after that you can get away with more sins.  

So yeah if you want to get fancy with it, carry on tapering down your collector to 2",  run 2" for for a  bit,  then chuck in a 2" - 2.5"  exducer cone  with  2.5 inch reso's directly after that, bigger they are the better.  some of the small ones dont really do much.    think of the reso as the exhaust ending.      after that do what you like really. merge into a single 2.5 or 3" and add mufflers till its quiet enough. 

you might grab a little bit of power off the bottom and in the middle doing it that way.     otherwise your original plan will probably work fine

reso's /glass packs  after headers can actually help power wise, and smooth things out.  esp in bottom end.   

I use this stuff now.  is a whole lot cheaper than buying from motorbike shop etc..

https://nzfg.co.nz/product/muffler-packing/

sometimes use a bit of chop as well

well it will run like it has a carb at least

Have you tired changing the edge they trigger on? 

Does the toyota setup use a 5v supply?       The cherry/zf sensors say they will run off 5v, but they case the odd trigger errot on link, when run on 5v?
Are the sensors for the vvti?    its not seeing them in the f12 menu?

soon as you go cams,  most cases its to much for the factory ecu to deal with. unless its an ecu that can be tuned. really need an aftermarket ecu and a good tune to get it all running nice.   

Fresh   water temp and  intake temp sensors  are a good idea.   link will run most sensors, stock or aftermarket as above. 
I wouldn't bother with the  knock sensor. will take a lot of tuning time to set  it up so it works right. Almost need the run the engine into light knock to know the thresholds and the likes. which you really want to avoid on a rotary.  Just get it tuned properly and always run on the right fuel.
Wideband o2 and controller, is nice to have a with gauge to keep things in check. and will help the tuner a bit if you have it connected to ecu.  otherwise isnt that necessary.    Stock sensor isn't good for much, bin it.

Yeah kinda depends on the engine, compression etc,  and what base fuel they are starting with. 

going by the little graph (assuming correct)  below      e30 on  a non ethanol 98 base  would be 103-104 octane.  which is pretty decent 
e30 on a 95 base is more like 101 - 102 octane.  need e40 to get to the same 103-104

Going by the graph, those dyno runs i done would have been 102 at the most.  probably less as the base fuel was pretty old.

keen

So i tipped some random amount of this stuff in the hilux.    well it was more like tipped 3L into what was left of the gull 98 in the tank.    guessing somewhere around 25-30%,   taking into account the 10% that was already in gull gas

Will get more science about it when ive emptied the tank and only have   95 & e100 to play with
but for now lets just say this is  e30 vs e10,   with the same base fuel

red       e10 - low boost
purple  e30 - low boost 
blue     e10  boost ramp
Black   e30  boost ramp

All runs are knock limited,    the e30 runs have about 3 -4 degrees more ignition advance.  Other than afr being corrected, only change is the fuel and timing. 

And my turbo is maxed out on the high boost runs.

So yeah nothing too new here,  but the fuel works.

53 minutes ago, shrike said:

Whats in the e100? 

Wholesale neutral spirits (96-97%) are pretty cheap (or they are over here) 

I can make it for about 50cents a L so always been curious on if I can use to as an octane booster 

from the sds on their site ^

from the research ive done. 

95ron pump gas  +  10%   ethanol   = 98 ron
95ron pump gas  +  20%  ethanol   =  100 ron

Thats roughly ^   from memory it goes up at that rate till get to  around 50/50 mix then diminishing returns on octane rating after that.   but it does carry on going up. the cooling effect on higher ratio's is why e85 is good. it runs cooler.  plus you are dumping more fuel in the intake for the same fuel ratio, so it cools the intake charge more also.  

Main reason i'm doing it is, because im a peasant from northland who cant get 98 anymore..     But in saying that im expecting to gain some power and/or safety factor  running 95+ 20% e  on same boost in  the hilux, since its high compression turbo.  I doubt i will bother with any higher ratios due to supply and storage factor

I havent really done any testing between the 98 fuel's  as only really had access to gull 98.   anything with ethanol in it needs a little less timing to make more power.  so can be some weird claims  if you just dump one of the other in the tank, depending where ignition advance is set.    Have tested that,   95ron pump gas actually needs a few more degrees timing to make the same power as gull e10 98

Sent them a couple emails to start with, got no reply.  rang them up yesterday and they said should be there tomorrow.  courier ticket says they sent it yesterday.   They didn't really give me a reason why it took so long. Just said should take a few days to show up, when i asked them how long orders should take.    guess they just lost/forgot my order.    Other than that, they seemed all good to deal with over the phone.   See how the next lot goes i guess. 

will chuck some in the hilux and do some testing on what kinda mix i can get away with, with a bit of safety factor

old mates at nicefuel  come through in the end.   by far the cheapest also.

Sounds like every day background noise there. 

Yep warkworth bp is the last 98, nothing north of than now.   maybe bp or mobil will fill the gap since gull has bailed out. but probably unlikely. 
Only up side is dont have to risk getting stabbed and/or mugged, going to gull whangarei anymore.

Thanks will keep it in mind.     Hopefully they sort there shit out and it gets delivered, would be an easy solution. 

38 minutes ago, SOHC said:

You may do more harm than good if they are going to sit around

wont be much different to the gull e10  ive been running for the last 10 years.  only need 10-20% mix.    plus i do have a dyno in my shed that they spend 90% of their life on..

1 hour ago, Early jap nuter said:

I’ve got afew 200 litre drums off nice fuels out in east Auckland. I’m not sure on shipping as I just pick up

I ordered a 20L off them over a week ago as a test run.  no communication and nothing showen up.   was free shipping, unsure how they can do that on dg. 

Does anyone on here buy e100?  looking for a reliable source that ships.   
No one sells 98 in whangarei anymore,  all my junk is built to run on 98.  so after a supply of e100 to mix with 95.

from memory it helps with rollsteer

na  stuff doesnt need that much cooling,  especially since your engine is a giant aluminum thing to start with.    Also half the time peoples cooling problems, is all the stuff jammed up behind the radiator. if air cant get out, its not going to go through 

brought some bushes for my corolla off spare-parts.co.nz    no drama, stuff turned up.