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Yowzer

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Everything posted by Yowzer

  1. Nah, if the AFM is not working correctly the ECU will be fueling incorrectly etc etc. With it unplugged the ECU bypasses it completely and runs on a mixture of voodoo and witchcraft. I think the AFM also houses the intake temp sensor, but not 100% on that.
  2. Nah, the AFM on these engines is not actually required and will still run lush without it, although a tad richer.
  3. Yeah it's a reasonably new filter and everything. Not something I can be bothered with really, I just need to get the car to matangi so I can rip the box out and scrap it. I'd rather drive than towrope it if I can.
  4. Right, the slushbox in my cressida will no longer engage forwards. Reverse works perfectly fine, but forwards just slushes around and slips like mad. I'm replacing the box so I don't give a crap about it, but is there anything I can chuck in it to try and get a bit of forward movement out of it so I can drive the car to where it needs to go? i.e. a very temporary fix. Cheers Jesse
  5. According to this guy they have a decent resell value http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 732250.htm
  6. They are $500 or something to replace. Fucking retarded. Yours has air suspension?
  7. Doubt you're gonna find a bellhousing to mate a 1UZ to a W50 box though. They have different bolt patterns to the W55/6/7/8 boxes.
  8. Yeah I didn't mean those mirrors, I meant fender mirrors on the fenders.
  9. Shit well done man! Remove door mirrors and relocate to fenders for more win.
  10. Yeah, I have no idea either. Pic some pics up.
  11. Would have the same effect on all cylinders.. Initially I was gonna it's popped the gasket between the cylinders, but then noticed that they are not adjacent. Makes things a bit funny..
  12. Also also also If the ignition and everything is still working, it should still be able to fire up and run on those numbers without too big a worry. Won't run too flash and will lose a lot of power, but there's no reason it should be coughing and shit. Double check ignition and make sure it's firing when it should be, and perhaps check valves for stickyness / bendyness. Could explain both low compression and coughing stz.
  13. Cold compression test should still give consistent results (if everything is all fine and dandy), even if the readings might differ from hot. Drop a spot of oil down the bores and try again. Rings may be shot or something.
  14. With that much scum buildup, that engine will not have been looked after at all. As UJ said, run a compression test, and if possible a leakdown test. Then remove head and sump, inspect sump for any shiny deposits, and get shit dipped. If there are shiny bits in the sump then your engine is due for a full rebuild / boat anchor conversion. If it was me an engine like that would be getting a full rebuild. Or scrapped. But that's just me. I've had enough "She'll be 'right" moments backfire on me in the past..
  15. Nah man, pic size is all good. Got pics of this Toyota powered one? / put a 1UZ in yours
  16. And crickets, and a roof that likes to fall onto your cars... But only in certain places. Like where mine currently is.
  17. I got silicon on my stz, normal hose clamps cranked up tight, and it hasn't caused any damage to the joiners. They just squished down a bit. Last time I undid them they didn't even have any marks on them.
  18. In that case, chuck it in and plug up some wires. Piece of piss mate I've heard they bolt right in (with custom engine mounts / sump / exhaust / etc)
  19. I think the VVTi ones use those stupid coded ECUs that require everything else in the car to be plugged into them, or they won't start. So you'd need something aftermarket, Link G4 or some stz
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