Unclejake

I've owned about 60 cars from Triumph Heralds to Alfa GTV, to Jags, to turbo Porsche (and even a BA Falcon amongst a previous ~ 15 Falcons).... and the best car I have EVER owned is the Lexus GS430. The only reason I'd ever sell it is to upgrade to a GS F... and perhaps I'd regret that. Nice work mate. You've set yourself a high benchmark

Mine is a NZ new 2007 GS430. Lexus didn't put Bluetooth into the GS until later. I think I purchased a Vaistech adapter which I installed in the glovebox. I can't remember the exact brand but Vaistech sounds correct. The adapter has been flawlesince 2017. I've never needed to touch it since the day I installed it (but to be fair I don't drive the vehicle often)

@Yowzer has the closest to correct prediction so far I think? Head finally off this evening. It looks like #1 piston has been kissing #1 pre combustion chamber. The precup looks well located into the head so I suspect worn big end bearings are the cause and the pre-cup is just ever so fractionally lower than the actual head. I also suspect I can fix this! So stoked. P.S. precup to head impact witness marks are roughly each side of the foreskin end of the diddle shaped piston valve relief pockets. I am thinking the piston has only been hitting the pre-combustion chamber on the exhaust stroke... which it probably just BE bearing(s). Nice.

Good question. I captured 10 seconds of the noise with my voice recorder when the engine was at an indicated 800rpm idle. I slowed the playback down and counted each clack. 69 'clacks' for ten seconds = 414 clacks per minute... so roughly half engine RPM EDIT: Which made me think it was an injector, but effectively shutting off the fuel to each injector one by one did not eliminate the noise It's an interesting problem. I'll know more when I can tear the engine down (I need to work during the day and have no shed and few tools) but I need the vehicle by 9th December and getting parts to Chatham Island can take weeks so I need to get as much info as possible quickly

Not a scenario I'd considered at all my friend! I'll get the head off next week if possible If the pre-chamber was lose would it be likely to connect to the piston crown at every TDC (incl exhaust stroke)? If so then it seems a less likely culprit. Good lord inside diesel engines are dirty. I've only ever touched one before this one. It's yuck.

^ If it's a piston (and it may well be mate) then it's apparently only making a noise once during four trips up or down the bore. If that's the case I'm guessing it's making a racket in response to detonation/combustion? Dunno. I was hoping not to touch the head and to only freshen the short-block

Folks, it's probably not the injectors: Land Cruiser 1HZ 6 cylinder diesel with added turbo and > 400,000kms Injectors replaced last year Motor is very tired, burns oil and has bugger all compression. Runs smoothly on all six cylinders It'll get a freshen up very soon, but she suddenly developed a loud knock/clack and I have not driven it since Using a stethoscope the clack seems to be somewhere above #2 injector. Hard to be certain.... but the stethoscope test suggests the noise is from valve gear? The clack is absent on cold start-up but very loud after 60 seconds No obvious issues between OHC and valve buckets With the engine idling; For every 800 revolutions the clack is audible ~ 400 times (i.e. two revolutions = one loud clack) We've cracked open each injector fuel pipe (one by one) with engine running and no change in the noise, so I think that makes an injector unlikely to be the cause I can't see valve stems or springs as they're hidden under shimmed buckets Valve buckets all seem to go up and down when slowly rotation the assembly using the starter motor The clack/knock is loud enough to be heard from next door at idle. At one clack per two crank revolutions I'm thinking it's cam/single valve related but am otherwise perplexed. Could a broken valve spring make such a racket? Thoughts?

Are you sure the bolts you're using to anchor the puller aren't passing through the drum and into the axle flange? I don't know the vehicle so can only otherwise offer sledge hammer, chains, heat, pry bar and sweat advice

Looks like a ~ 1946 Ford Mercury to me

On most vehicles the interior courtesy lights are switched to earth, so be aware of that when you're doing your diagnostics. i.e. when the door is open the courtesy light gets an earth which completes the circuit. I suspect your sunroof and windows are finding that same earth and are missing the earth they were designed to operate from

~ vs ------ IIRC

I should update the post to explain: The roof in one of my trucks leaks. My delightful staff members put my mulitmeter in a bucket and chucked it right under the leak, so I got a new multimeter sent over It was that new MM which was telling me 6v batteries had ~ 12v charge EVIDENTLY one needs to turn the knob to DC rather that AC (not that it says either DC or AC on the MM face) or else one will see roughly double the battery's voltage on the display I went back, retested the EV and have tentatively diagnosed one dud 6V battery (the one a 12V sprayer was hooked up to)

So therefore I could check the voltage of each individual battery without disconnecting it from the adjacent batteries?

The batteries are definitely 6 volt (I could read that on their labels) and I was testing each battery with both the positive and negative terminals disconnected, so the were very much stand alone. I question my multimeter though. It's a bit too automatic for my liking, but my second multimeter shit itself yesterday (I have a third which I'll drag out of a box tomorrow) One more bit of info which I should have mentioned: The eight batteries are wired in series. The dear old girl who's machine this is (she's almost 80) had a 12 volt sprayer connected to one (I think it was one battery. I didn't pay as much attention as I should have) of the eight 6v batteries using alligator clips when I arrived. I disconnected it immediately and asked her how long the sprayer had been connected but I haven't got an answer. It was the 6v battery that she had the sprayer connected to that read 11.8v I'm a bit stumped as to if that spray unit was getting 6 or 48 volts. Thoughts? I'm confused on this detail

Howdy all, I'm helping a retired couple diagnose a problem with a Hisun side by side ATV. The vehicle is almost exactly 12 months old. It's a plug in 48 volt 4x4 that has suddenly refused to go up hills and is throwing a few error codes (dunno exactly what codes just now). It has 8 x 6 volt batteries. I isolated three of the batteries (one at a time) and measured them at 11.8, 13.4 and 13.4 volts respectively... which seemed impossible so I stopped there and went back to work. The batteries seem to be lead/gell cell - but I'm not sure (they're covered in mud and very hard to read due to all the brackets holding them in place) I have a call into the Hisun techs but they're Auckland based so will be in lockdown. Question: Is it even possible to charge a 6v battery up to > 13 volts, or could my digital multimeter be crook? @Ned or @Llama

It does sound like a battery problem or a poor earth problem, which is great news IMO. WRT coils: IIRC the GT40R was a coil with a built in internal resister and the GT40 expected an external resistor. Both were designed to run the points at lower voltage after the engine had fired (i.e. when the starter motor was released) to save damage to the surfaces of the points. I dunno what your electronic system will want, but you don't have points so perhaps your coil is still suitable. I'll let others guide you on that point as I'm out of my depth Good luck, and what a gorgeous car

That sounds like a crook ballast resistor. Do you happen to have a GT40R coil? EDIT: One way of gaining more information would be to disconnect the starter solenoid and retest voltage to the coil on simulated cranking. It may be a combination of a bad battery and bad/unrequired ballast

Unsure if you've sorted your cooling out or not yet, but I stumbled upon these and thought of you: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4229005557176057/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking={"qid"%3A"-7916221279378950634"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"991751737588316001"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A991751737588316001%2C\"target_type\"%3A6%2C\"primary_position\"%3A11%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A9062459240274198528%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A501%2C\"value\"%3A6.890323296665e-5%2C\"upsell_type\"%3A3523%2C\"grouping_info\"%3Anull}"%2C"lightning_feed_qid"%3A"-7916235641729681881"%2C"lightning_feed_ranking_signature"%3A"8462921066048651264"}

I finally have a set of re-built injectors in the Land Cruiser now (from Kaiapoi Repowers). Freight delays and lack of on-Island mechanic meant it took over a month to get the injectors here and installed. Fuel consumption has probably improved, but it's hard to say for certain due to other variables (one being that the trip meter stopped working - now solved). I did 16L/100kms on the last tank of fuel (99% gravel roads on a lifted 100 series with big wheels and a roof tray) With the new injectors the vehicle drove the same as it did on the old injectors for about a week, but was hard to start when hot straight away and then suddenly lost mid rev torque about a week later. I'm 90% certain it's leaking boost through bad induction manifold gaskets (there's a damp area between the two metal surfaces so the gaskets must be leaking fuel/boost... but they're also black and sooty deposits) so they'll get changed soon which might(?) restore power, but I can't imagine a vacuum leak causing hard hot starting. I dunno. The engine does have a fair bit of blow by (it's got 410,000kms) and has no catch can, but with the crankcase breather pipe disconnected from the air intake there's no immediate change in performance. The hot starting symptoms are either: 1) Takes several seconds of cranking to fire, or 2) After a second or two it feels like the battery is going flat. Relax the ignition key and try again and it'll fire up after a bit. The battery tests OK. The starter motor may be weak.... but if this was a petrol motor I'd say the ignition timing was too far advanced on starter motor crank. It has that 'feel' to it. I'm picking there's no boost on starter motor cranking so the inlet manifold gaskets will be irrelevant to the hot start problem (that commenced the day after the injectors were changed) P.S. the mechanic tested one of the old injectors and it was poked. Spluttering, dribbles.

I haven't watched this but it might help? I built a dizzy tester a while ago but I think our friend @KKtrips has it now, and he knows more about distributors than most (mainly because he's as old as a mountain)

grimmermotors.co.nz might be able to help, but that's just from a Google search. I do not know them and can not say if they're any good or not sorry. Distributor rebuilders are a dying breed, but in truth a dizzy isn't very complicated if you take it logically and carefully. Sourcing a new diaphragm might be the hardest part of the job

Oh wow. Now that I look at them online - reconditioned injectors aren't particularly expensive. ~ NZ$500 for a set of six (exchange). I know there will be a few hours labour involved, but it could be that a set of injectors will pay for themselves i fuel savings within a couple of months, and may potentially extend the life of the engine. Thanks for the pro-tip.

Incredibly, the local mechanic has all the gear to rebuild injectors on Island so I'll ask him to get that done, but I suspect the pump will need to go to the mainland. There's no intercooler currently. I have all five of the below symptoms Here are the 5 most common symptoms of faulty diesel fuel injectors. Trouble starting the vehicle or uneven idling. The engine cranks but doesn't start unless you crank it for a long time. ... Misfire. ... Smell of fuel. ... Dirty emissions. ... Increased fuel consumption and poor miles per gallon

Chur bo. Exhaust smoke is black once the vehicle has warmed up a bit, but white on start-up (figures the glowplugs are stuffed so new ones are on their way) I smell burnt oil with a tail wind so figure compression is down a bit/broken rings? The boost gauge pipe runs off the intake manifold I did a little reading last night that suggests too much fuel (i.e. a rich mixture) is extremely bad for turbo diesel as it creates lots of piston crown heat. Diesel is obviously very different to petrol! It's possible that the previous owner turned up the fuel pump to get more power (it's got HEAPS of power). He also fitted a 2.5 inch straight piped exhaust (very badly) which has been replaced in the last few days as it was so shit. This Land Cruiser drives very, very well now that I've messed around with steering and exhaust systems. It's astoundingly comfortable off-road. I absolutely LOVE it and will keep paying the fuel bills if I have to, but I'm worried that the prodigious fuel use is a symptom of something else more sinister... and the last thing I want is to damage the engine

Chaps, I know very little about diesels and even less about turbos. I recently bought a 105 series Land Cruiser with a factory 1HZ n/a six cylinder engine and 410,000kms. A previous owner has fitted a turbo from an 80 series Land Cruiser. The boost gauge shows a maximum of 10psi boost under hard driving, but more like 6-8psi in normal cruising. I assume the original n/a injector pump is still in place Issue: The vehicle uses significant amounts of fuel. ~ $180 per week which is about double what my other trucks use for the same distance travelled Question: Will 'turning down the boost' make a significant fuel saving or do I need to consider a 'turbo' injector pump? There's a rotten 60 series Land Cruiser turbo rusting in a paddock near by. I could probably rob it of its injector pump (if it fits) if that's a worthy task