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Abarth

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Everything posted by Abarth

  1. Finished off the rest of the electrics and fired it right up. Did a spanner check and tightened up all the remaining lose bolts. Finally finished!
  2. Been working on this, the swing arm and battery box are now in iso primer but all good that can stay like that till lock down ends Did the final timing tune with the points, replaced all the screws which were all rounded from years adjustment and tidied it up in there. Fitted the new chrome cover too, so bling! Next job is the starter solenoid, continuing the theme of most things being fkd on this bike the solenoid was no different. Took the solenoid apart and cleaned it all inside with contact cleaner and vola works perfect. Everything that has push button electronics is working as it should. Only speedo sensor for the motogadget to go.
  3. Slowly making progress with the battery box. Tricky to make everything fit. Got some Alloy sheet metal and bent it into shape. Made some little brackets for a strap which hold the battery down.
  4. Abarth

    Dio ZX AF35

    That means the rollers aren’t heavy enough to squeeze the belt high enough on the pulley at high rpm to get it into a high gear. You can draw a line with a marker on the face of the pulley to see how high the belt is going at max speed. As the belt lifts the marker pen is rubbed off. When I tuned mine I had a dyno chart of the powerband which showed power vs RPMs. So I fitted an rpm gauge (like the cheapest digital one off Trademe) to work out the ideal RPMs at top speed. Those cheap rpm digital displays are good for setting idle RPM too.
  5. Abarth

    Dio ZX AF35

    If it’s staying 50cc I’d go with 5 - 4.5g rollers. This will keep the rpm’s up while it goes up hills and it’ll still do 70kph on the flat. To test it out you can add only three 9g rollers evenly spread which would have similar total weight as running 5g rollers. 9x3 = 27g vs 5x6 = 30g.
  6. Abarth

    Dio ZX AF35

    Sweet man, I’ll have a look and if I find the parts I’ll PM you.
  7. Abarth

    Dio ZX AF35

    Nice project man! I’m 99% sure I have a Koso Variator, 5 gram rollers, Koso clutch, Koso clutch bell housing, Koso clutch centre spring. ill have a look on Sunday to check for sure as they’ve been sitting under my house since uni days and I’m now never going to use them. let me know if your keen?
  8. Ok so it was the swing arm that was bent. Got a second hand one and banged it in for a test fit, sat perfect! Stripped off all the old paint and surface rust then brushed on some rust converter to kill all the rust in the corners. Here is as it sits now. Next is stripping again back to bare metal and hit it with the etch prime then in the 2k black. Easy.
  9. Can you check the head gasket sides are right with the end tabs sticking out between the head and block?
  10. Even when bolting the bottom of the shock to the swing arm the mount is slightly offset.
  11. If I use a piece of string and straight line it from the engine cog to the rear sprocket it’s off. Got a new swing arm on the way so I’ll fit that and see how it looks. If it’s all good I’ll strip the paint off it and hit it with the left over black 2k I painted the rest of the frame in.
  12. Ok so had an issue where the rear wheel always sat to the left when bolted up. Thought this was due to a inner wheel collar not being present. Found one and popped that in but still sitting to the left. Good thing is that I can test the wheel on my other Honda. Did that and it sits bang in the middle so it’s not a lacing rim offset issue. I then placed the wheel in its most straightest position I could measuring off the top shock mounts each end of the tyre Seems like it’s the swing arm itself that’s a bit Swiss cheesed, 95% sure it’s not the frame as it’s inside the swing arm that’s sitting funny. Got a new swing arm on order as I cbf’d pulling the swing arm out of my other one. This Honda has been a basket case hahaha! Fitted the Cafe honda’s rear wheel to check if it sat centre. Fits perfectly in the middle, hella flush on the guards.
  13. Cheers. Bumper Replacements in Onehunga for the Chrome. Final bill was $250 but the condition was pretty bad. Acme Plating also in Onehunga did the bright zinc plate.
  14. Send some bits away to get chromed and bright zinc plated. Fresh chrome looks amazing, points cover and the suspension fork bolts are now perfect. Wasn’t cheap but those parts aren’t available new anymore. To be fair they were pitted badly and most of the time was probably spent tidying up the parts before chroming. The bright zinc was super cheap to get plated, like $20. However no prep is done. If I’d known I’d have polished out the pitting marks more but for 20 bucks it look a million times better than it did.
  15. Stuck the other badge on with 3m double sided tape. Found a spare points contact set in a box full of my others Hondas spare parts. Fitted those up all nice. Only battery box to go now, picked up some reasonably thick alloy sheet which I’ll rivet onto the original cut down battery box.
  16. Took all the bits off that need chroming or bright zinc, wasn’t going to go this hard out with the bike but with everything else looking mint these bits stand out hard. Can anyone recommend a good electro player in Auckland? Ran the battery down while setting up the electrics, chucked it back on charge and now it’s fkd, probably should invest in a lithium battery charger haha. Damit.
  17. One step forward five back. The starter motor was spinning up but not engaging the crank. Popped the alternator cover off to have a look what’s going on. Chain and cog mech looks all good so it’s the roller mechanism behind the alternator rotor. Dang. Luckily the Honda engineers have a rotor pulling tool called the rear axel. The rear wheel had to come off anyways so no drama there. Jammed the bolt in and kept turning till it cracked the tapper and off it came. Now two of the three rollers popped out and the other one was stuck. Bingo! After a bit of CRC and a tap with the hammer it came flying out wit the spring following it.
  18. Pretty much all the AliExpress stuff is in that thread. Only thing that’s missing are the gear linkages but they are fairly generic. All the other stuff was brought from 4into1, David Silver Spares, Joker Machine and Cognito Moto in the states. The headlight on it’s a 7 inch, that was just off Trademe came from Ozzy.
  19. This is it with its park lights on in full sun. And the other is with the brake on.
  20. Yeah it’s good in the daylight, I wanted to see what the motogadget looked like in the sun and it was mint too. I’ll get a pic and post it tomorrow in the sun. Had it running again after all the wiring was done. Sounds ok currently, definitely want to pack out the muffler with more baffle to get the deeper tone. Also need to sort out this headlight bracket, it’s too big for the bike so I’m after a shorter one to pull the headlight back into the frame more. And lower the front a bit.
  21. Same, hopefully the WoF guy is kind on the day. It already has a VIN plate so it doesn’t need to go through full compliance testing. They are intensely bright but yeah slightly nervous about it. In good news I picked up a 3 pin flasher relay on the way home from work and it works perfect. Stoked! Note: Rear wheel is crooked, haven’t put it together properly yet
  22. Been working on the wiring. Everything is working as it should except the indicator unit. Hondas actually use a 3 pin relay and I’m trying to use a 2 pin one, no idea why a 2 pin wouldn’t work but I’ll pick a 3 pin up to try tonight. Those AliExpress handle bar buttons are legit, really nice buttons with a mix of momentary and latch style buttons. The motogadget mini sensor still needs to be wired in but the display lit up all nice. Hooked up the starter motor solenoid which spun up when I hit the starter motor but didn’t crank the motor over. Need to check the engagement rollers on the crank as I suspect they aren’t there. Getting close now!!
  23. Originally was going to do twin supertraps each side but having them hugging the frame at the angle I wanted just wasn’t working for the chain side. So scratched that idea and went 2 into 1. Used 38mm mild steel donuts and U bends to shape the exhaust. Mig welded it all together, gave them a couple coats of header paint then wrapped them in titanium header wrap.
  24. Long time and well over due for an update! Got stuck in to figuring this exhaust system out, one which won’t foul rearsets and kick starts. Came up with the solution to wrap the headers under the frame then back out by the lower swing arm. Did some other electrical stuff too, but here’s the pics of its current guise.
  25. Looks good man. With the carb, screw the needle in a couple of turns below when it’s flush with the slide. There’s a lot of info out there that says they should be set flush with the top of the slide. Found it ran way rich and didn’t make power out on the water till I screwed the needle down a bit further into the slide. Going wild on the paint job?
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