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Scrubb

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Posts posted by Scrubb

  1. On 28/03/2022 at 09:22, kws said:

    I wonder if the single tube one doesn't have the air temp sensor? The one for your car should have an air temp sensor, but one type doesn't have it and I can't tell how to identify. 

    As suspected MD077636 is obsolete in Japan. 

    You might be on to something there. My Lancer has a single tube air flow meter and it looks exactly the same as the one above (I'll have to get part number to confirm). It has an external air temp sensor located on the inlet pipe after the turbo, but before the injector unit.

    I'm interested in how you get on with this as I've had on going issues trying to get my Lancer going properly. Still not figured out after 5+ years of ownership as nobody can get their head around how the systems work.

    I have some info on the Lancer 2000 Turbo and Cordia Turbo. Let me know if that might help and I can try look stuff up. I think I saw calibration value for the intake temp sensor somewhere, but not sure if it would be the same for Starion.

    • Like 1
  2. Someone on this forum long ago told me not to use some Armour All type products as they contain silicon which dries out the vinyl and causes cracks. Not sure how true this is, but from that point on I've been periodically applying Neopol and I haven't had any cracking in the vinyl of my cars since I've had them over the last 7 years or so.

    Neopol is available from your local supermarket, usually.

    Neopol All Purpose Creme Polish 300ml | Kitchen, Dining & Household | New World

  3. On 13/07/2020 at 09:37, zep said:

    An update: I got all the chrome off the test trim, here's a pic of that.

    uXlRODT.thumb.jpg.ca5f1c752b9825d1e24f3f97fb29885b.jpg

    I gave it to Lucentt and this is what I got back:

    IMG_20200710_153423.jpg.7c634108d4951d9f6700d9526a407ddc.jpg

    It is by no means perfect, but this is probably my fault. I should have polished up the plastic before I gave it to them - I'll do figure out how to do that for next time. I used sandpaper to get some of the remaining chrome off, but I obviously used far too low grit. You can see the scratches from underneath in the plastic here and the coating is a bit light too:

    IMG_20200710_153859.jpg.c916e38d0a14a17e84003d8169136072.jpg

    Not sure what happened here:

    IMG_20200710_153443.jpg.55f3c5bd8194a0aa85ad463f53e28783.jpg

    What was your method to remove the paint/chrome? I've got some plastic pieces that are chrome and have black painted over some of it so I think I need to follow this process for them.

  4. 9 hours ago, a.craw4d said:

    @Scrubb How'd you paint the 86?

    Airbrush, can or brush?

    Looks awesome.

     

    Thanks! I surprised myself with how that turned out, actually lol.

    I painted it using an airbrush with Tamiya Metallic Orange and 2k urethane clear for the clear coat.

    • Like 1
  5. I'm trying to stay interested in doing 1:24 scale models, but the end result seems to be much more appealing than the actual building, but I have several kits to build, so must keep going.

    Here's a couple pics of my latest build:
    IHGRedZm.jpg
    HdbPNnrm.jpg
    FIS3pZWm.jpg
    0PXv4Lsm.jpg

    And here's what I'm currently working on and I cannot wait to have it finished!

    0qejVDvm.jpg

     

    • Like 7
  6. On 11/06/2019 at 21:26, Prof Schnorz said:

     

    Dude, this is what I need. I thought it could be completely done from the router side. Thanks mate

    This can be done from the router side by setting up reservations in your router settings. You need to know the MAC address of the device and the IP address you want to give it. Most routers allow you to set reservations.

    This way you can have your devices set to automatically get an IP from your router, and they'll always get the same one. You also don't have to manually configure each device.

     

    You can usually also change your DHCP settings in the router to give out more dynamic IP addresses too, if you need more addresses

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