Spencer

Sweet cheers. They are $89 dollarydoos here so will go grab one.

Shit I'd stick with scotch brite and prepsol.

Just trying to say for the millionth time that just because its 2 part doesn't make it extra deadly its urethane that is deadly in both single part (ie por15) and two part. No one freaks out about 2 part bog, or two part epoxy glues (kneed it etc) they get it everywhere.

Pretty sure the cheapest epoxy primer will be PPG/Protec 408 Epotec, its about $60 in oz for a 1L "kit" that has paint, hardener and thinner. Get some mixing pots while you are at the paint shop so its easy to mix it up in one container then bin after.

Also its no more deadly than rattle cans, its urethane that has the isocyanates not epoxy.

If you want to keep the car go buy 1L of epoxy its the correct tool for the job. Using 2 part filler over single stage primer is a mistake IMO, I have seen it eventually peel off plenty of times as the curing bog fucks up the shitty primers adhesion. If you must use rattle cans then bog on the steel (it will be what the bog data sheet says to do) then primer it, it will stick better this way. You can then do it again in 5 years

Yeah go buy 1L and brush it on.

How good is a box of rockauto parts that takes like 8 months to get around to installing.

Those headers are going to be sweet. Whats the exhaust plan? you should do it for sure.

/ling post but one of my favorite cars in Gran Turismo 2 was the lantis with the race car mod. It made cool rev noises and slam it until the wheels come out the guards.

you need that 3" zaust to match.

Those engine dampeners work a treat, transfer a bunch of vibration but just whip it off when you go down the shops to get cakes.

Off topic and @sheepers probably knows this but yeah looks like they are $1100->$1200 new

from old toymods post (would have to verify this yourself)

then on amayama 3.7 ratio is ~$1100. Part number crosses over with hilux which is what people always say but never seen anyone find one IRL and swap it.

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4120129298

3.5 ratio slightly cheaper

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4120139467

1 hour ago, Roman said:

It would be incredibly convenient if true! 
As I've got a few F series LSDs kicking around haha.
I guess the OD of the crownwheel doesnt necessarily have to be the same in order for the bolts on the diff to be compatible.
But seems unlikely / I think I've heard of other people swapping normal C series LSD in.
 

Yeah but the bolt patterns from memory are different like 10 bolts vs 6 bolts. Also FWD nuggets are wayyyyy shorter than RWD LSD's. Going on the TRD part numbers about 100 other C-series cars/models crosses over with the vitz part number so pretty good bet a C-series LSD works

Most race class rules are one injector per cyl, they get the best power from outboards so that's there they go. As above there is lots to be done in the execution and the injectors spray pattern, pressure etc. I think some high end race classes were going super high pressure, to the point where classes have fuel pressure limits. I am not doing it myself so can't add much but it definitely makes good gains for NA if you invest the effort/moneys. I read that most of the gains are from the charge cooling rather than mixing, so maybe you need a hot manifold also? not sure. But I mean we have Glen who pops up on here who gained 9kw on his setup.

They are way different.

59 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

When I was at Toyota we fit a TRD LSD to a turbo Vitz. Same part as an Altezza.

I had to look because I doubt the vitz has a 7.5" crown wheel like the Altezza? Interestingly the vitz LSD number matches the ones listed for AW11, AE92 etc

Have you printed some headers yet?

Surely OS has a friendly wizard who will make you a header for some small change, that TRD one is pretty simple.

That 7.4kw is before we bin the cat and fit a 3" zaust! 10KW gainz.

On a serious note though the cam phasing will work better again once you open up the exhaust side somehow, especially the headers.

Oh and offer that guy $100 for that TRD manifold.

This is so good. Probably another 5-10hp+ in some headers and zaust, buy a box of bends and make spaghetti/mess

Yes exactly. Looking at it closely there is like 3 different calipers (levin/fx-gt etc etc) that are the same thing, just some models have a different hand brake lever setup. They share the same piston part number, slides are exactly the same parts etc. The rubber parts will be the same.

Yup use amayama, they are amazing. Just have to wait for the parts to get here on the slowest plane from Japan (they do bulk ordering in batches) longest wait has been 6 weeks or so, shortest like 2 weeks. Worth it for genuine parts that are often cheaper than chain store china stuff.

Seems like quite the crime to put heavy steels on a econobox, will make it feel like shit. Only the finest lightweight JDM alloys will do.

They look good on a bunch of wheels, those 5 spokey ones are some kinda TE37 knock off. Lots of the dingo people run RPF1's which work on most cars and are cheap and light. There's a few on street fins etc. Many options and bonus is tiny forged/light wheels are much cheaper than the large variety.

Shame the yanks didnt get these turds for cheap rockauto parts.