Spencer

Someone in NZ will sell this stz. Has two chambers in the can.

Gloss Clear 2K Touch Up Paint Spray Solid DIY Automotive Top Coat 400ml | eBay

Gotta use 2 part urethane clear, if done properly it will last forever.

Once you polish them then you have to do it forever, UV protection is gone. The way to never touch them again is 2K clear coat, sand them in a couple stages 400->600 then plastic adhesion promoter (make sure its clear) and paint them and they will look like a million bucks for like 10-20 years. You can get 2K clear coat in a can these days.

We have a exhaust on this yet? eat up those 4ages with all those exhaust side gainz.

The old shit is Butyl tape stuff I think, can be replaced with urethane 100%

A pro will use a urethane based widow sealant. You can do the rear windows with the urethane, there is a art to getting it nice and not all squish out. You can use bits of foam shit to get it all sitting in the right place.

You mean for the $$$

/trolling

Nice work.

Lets see how cheap it turns out haha

They run a normal Toyota shit, if its from the 90's then A340 and if its older then the A43 etc. Bellhousings hard to find most people have made something to use other boxes.

Edit what Torton says look at the data sheet. The urethane primer I used you wet sand to 600 or whatever, much nicer than dry. Assume we are talking urethane primer?

Yes if you want it to be smooth. It will stick all the way to like 600/800 is the norm I think, don't think I have ever used over 400/600. It would stick well enough even if you just scuffed with scotch brite and painted.

Its all garbage!

Rust primers suck at rust converting and suck at being a primer. Worst of both worlds.

Same for weld through primer, chuck it in the bin. 2 part epoxy holds heat better and burns off less if you let it cure 24/48h.

Just rename the thread to buy some 2 part epoxy primer and apply to clean abraded/acid washed metal thx.

Anyone actually tested these single part rust primers? like put them outside and then sand them back? or sand them back at all? the 2k epoxy primer beats them all.

Brunox has worse adhesion than 2k epoxy primer by miles. Why would you put a inferior product under the 2k epoxy when you can remove the rust with abrasion and acid?

Yes it is some kinda acid action but the problem is they have a primer in them, it dries like some kind of jelly and does not sand well. You are just meant to paint over it and its magic jelly powers make the top coat stick. But on tests and fucking around with a bunch of those primers (including garbage weld through) they all sand horrible and the top paint flakes off eventually. It says in the CRC datasheet wait 12h and top coat with enamel. It goes straight in the bin IMO.

But yes it is a incompatibility of paint and undercoat and/or not enough cure time.

There is other ways but the stock answer is go get the good shit.

No offense but those are not good products to use (almost everything paint related from a parts store is junk). Any of those rust converters are terrible and have bad adhesion, everything I have tried to paint on them peels off easy as. Grind that shit off, go to bunnings get some phosphoric acid for treating the rust (brunox? I think next to the thinners, or vinegar for a slower version), then go to the paint shop and buy epoxy primer (protec is cheapest IMO, like $60 for 1L kit). You can brush on the primer, then top coat with whatever in white and it will be done forever.

Yup my thoughts also is clearance with the diff, and then probably steering box etc. It probably make the job way easier to lift the body for clearance. I have messed around with a 4wd one with a 1UZ ages ago, no body lift but custom sump of course and headers. Rip the motor out and get a LS block dummied up in there and you will immediately see what you have to do

Ring cartune and pretend to be interested customer.

So not that hard?

Yeah done a bunch of A series fwd cam belts and the mount is on the block? otherwise it would be all fucked up for single cam and FE stuff? memory is hazy though.

Edit: yeah as per the link its a radiator hose thing which not all FWD used. I would put money its a late vs early bigport thing.

The MR2 early ZE had the bigger bottom end which leads to confusion? The worst engine for sure is the second gen bigport in early AE92's, I would guess that is what we are seeing above?

Anyway we can all agree that the AE82 FXGT is the best config 4AGE that existed. Lightest chassis and those early big port revs all day (until you run big ends) you need a fresh one though, I have driven a bunch and some go way harderer than others. /ling

Yup good outcome that cleaning the ISCV and setting the timing works. If its in the ballpark you should be able to fuck around and get it better over time.

100% on getting some new gas and a injector cleaner in there, I think the nulon one is the only over the counter that has PEA.

Try delete the ISCV and get it to idle on the throttle stop. Then you can go from there if you want it to work for cold start, idle up etc.

I would chuck some injector cleaner through it also. One that has PEA in it that stuff actually works. Probably not the issue but if it’s been sitting with old fuel I have seen many a stuck injector from old fuel varnish /residue. 
 

what kind of idle control does it have? They can be pretty shit on these. I bought a manual 1ggze turd back in the day and as said above just had the idle wound up. 

I have a smaller 100mm china one and its lasted like 5 years and a fair few goes over cars. Keen on a bigger one at that price, they are mostly clones of the fancy ones so work sweet. Just as above questionable how long they last but for the hobbyist its a no brainer. If you are a ninja at aliexpress searching can probably get brushes.