Spencer

Yeah I fucked that up a few times back in the day wiring these things up like a 4age with just power to everything off the key.

If you haven’t the ECU needs to control the main relay (MREL pin on ECU?) which powers all the EFI things on the engine. Let’s it hold power to the idle controller to reset it. Been awhile though and could be a bunch of things, definitely don’t need the coolant on the throttle.

Glad you are messing with outboards again. From what I read pretty much all the gains are from the charge cooling from the fuel phase change. They dont put them on bikes and race cars for zero reason. I mean we have old mates beams as a IRL example, he picks up like 10hp on his beast motor with 80-90% outboards, I just made that up beacuse CBF looking but its close to that. Most race car shit will run heaps of fuel pressre and spendy injectors to make it all work real nice.

Yes forgive me I am a troll.

But hard to beat a Q-jet on big donk for economy without reinventing the wheel. Has real small primaries and as said vacuum feedback on needles that drop down into the jets. You can dial up a real nice lean mix for cruise and when you crack the throttle up a small hill the needles pull out a tad and it give a safer mixture for the load. All that is fully adjustable with the needle spring pressure, taper and jet size so you could put a mean cruise tune on any donk. Secondaries are giant and easy to tune just change jets, usually stock dumps in super rich 12:1. The hard part is the idle system is kinda fixed so if you have a cam then you need to drill holes and/or change tubes to give a good idle. That is where everyone gives up and puts on a Holley because you have to lean and figure some shit out on the idle side. There is a book for that though from the guru guy.

How many holes can we drill in this?

What a beast.

All the gainz are in that exhaust yo someone fax him some 3" tubing and a mig welder.

Yeah as above. The black bits are just treated rust on top with rust underneath. Keep it wet with acid and get out a small wire brush and agitate it then if needed do another app of acid. Always wash with water, then get out the scotch brite and prepsol and clean for paint, you want bright white clean steel every time no residue or bullshit under the paint at all.

Decent water trap setup then any gun really. I have painted with a shit bunnings gravity gun, just got extra orange peel then wet sanded it all out anyway.

Dude get a engine dampner thing, they transfer all the vibrations but can just hook it up for the drags. They work amazing on FWD shit like this to stop the dreaded flappy engine.

How are we going on the 3" exhaust front? what about some coilovers to drop it on the deck

Shit yeah good outcome! I knew some form of jamming mechanism was in your future haha.

37 degrees is great. I have only played with the K24 stuff and you don't get shit out of using more than 40 degrees on them and its all mid range (generally right before going onto vtec big cam), you end up pulling it way back up top.

So possible to make a lock out that mechanism? on k24 shit people transfer the larger k20 50degree VTC gear onto K24 which is meant to hit pistons (don't think it does) you can buy a lockout device which just is chucked in the chamber and stops it moving as far. Its literally a machined and hardened pin that floats around in the chamber and stops it opening as far lol.

https://tractuff.com/products/tractuff-vtc-limiter

If you used modern shit like urethane then there is no magical acid, alkaline or solvent shit that will easily remove it without being insanely strong. It’s a modern material that is meant to be chemically resistant. Mechanical removal is the only route. I have wire wheeled off a whole car of seam sealer where the paint didn’t work with it, it’s character building.

You can brush the epoxy in there once you clean it up if you need. Then top coat it black or whatever.

I don't think there is much difference in brands TBH. I have not painted a car in like 7 years due to house buying and all that shit. But I used protec epotec 408 because it was cheap, been through shit loads of it like 5 cars worth. Think PPG bought protec so the line up has changed, someone else will have more up to date info

https://www.kustompaints.com.au/product/ppg-408-epotec-epoxy-primer-n14-white-5l-kit/

Um looking at that repair if I was being a cunt/critical I would say some of those welds looks like they were not very hot and have not penetrated well anyway? with a mig I would basically only use spots/tacks an inch apart but pretty hot so you get good penetration through to the back and the weld goes down pretty flat. Then clean them up and do the next round of spots, its slow as hell but less bendy bendy and things stick together pretty well and you can grind them flat knowing its actually welded through not just shit on top.

Not sure if I would bother cutting it out at this stage, its up to you. Like I am sure other cavities have surface rust and shit so chasing perfection can be pointless when just getting it good enough and then doing it again in 10 years will do

Hey boss, so yeah brunox or any single stage rust primer things go in the bin. Anything you paint on rust goes in the bin, in all the messing around I have done (painting panel steel and leaving it outside) any rust converter/primers are junk (they rust underneath all the time)

Rust converting with acid or removing rust with abrasion then epoxy primer is the better solution every time, pretty much nothing has adhesion like epoxy primer. It is not really weather stable over the long term which is its downside, it is meant to be top coated and works super well with 2k urethane on top which is flexible and withstands the weather much better.

That primer has no data sheets on that website? I am going to assume that 2K primer is urethane primer which is not for going straight on metal, it is generally the best shit for block sanding as it sands a little nicer and will usually have a mixing option to go on thick for blocking. A system many will use is epoxy on the metal, urethane primer high build for blocking then top coat.

The paint stripper will probably not remove the seam sealer, it usually has to be scraped out. Had many issues with single stage primers & paints (and shit like POR15) reacting or not sticking to seam sealers so you want to test this out. Seam sealer should be urethane, generally they work best over the epoxy primer (which generally doesn't react with much shit) then bang the 2k urethane colour over the top but best to test your products out first before going crazy.

for inside panels its tough. The best method IMO for rust patches is clean it all up and epoxy primer inside the repair and on the patch itself. Leave it to dry 24-48h and then clean up the weld areas and weld it in. Epoxy will hold out to welding a million times better than weld through primer but you have to have to wait for it to cure. since its already closed up just wax it.

Get some 2k epoxy primer, its pretty safe to spray compared to Urethane 2K no isocyanates. 

I think I have said all this like 10 times

I'm not seeing the required hole in the bumper for that filter?

Note all the supertourers use ram air and point the airbox out the front, haz to be some gainz there but understand you dont have much space.

So you will also need to move your motor back, fit a quaife sequential box and high pressure outboard injection.

So we getting full cam phasing and shit? cannot remember what happened after all that, headers are on? eat a salad

Hey man, I did it twice. Both times with the BMW camber bolts then slot the holes. There’s not much more to it than finding the part number for the bolts (like it’s been over 10years so I don’t know). Talk to the cert guy as you kinda want to beef up the area and make guides for the bolts to make it all smick. Also if it’s super slammed it may not get you back to where it needs to be, mine maxed out still had a few degrees from memory.

Oh and watched the video must be pretty sweet with 112kw. Always liked the way a blacktop drives through the gears, even if they are smelly 20v.

I guess some kinda cold air box/pod filter shit and 3” video are on the cards when you get that far?

3” exhausts are science.

Why no JZ they are made for this job.

So no one is building one of these yet? we just driving to the shops for 55 pages?