Spencer

Yeah you want the biggest one possible, even the best single phase machines run too much when painting a car will run all the time on the blasting cabinet. Look for a 15A plug one with 3hp there are even 20A plug 4hp single phase units out there that are probably getting in the ballpark of the correct air delivery for painting and blasting.

Yeah a 20L of wax and grease is not expensive last time I checked. Usually bulk wax and grease and general thinners from the paint store are cheaper than turps etc.

Etch primer is like a million year old paint technology, for the days of single stage solvent cured paints it was the stuff for metal adhesion. Its gargabe though if you leave it around it will rust, it does not seal and it will fuck out if you put a 2 part product like bog over it (it can peel off etc). I would only use it if I was painting some 1K laquer or something on the cheap, even then why bother you can spray 2k epoxy it is not as deadly as 2k urethane to do at home.

You can bog on metal the data sheet will tell you to do that, however most will do it on top of epoxy primer I think both are acceptable. Then epoxy on top and you good. Buy good filler evercoat etc.

15 hours ago, xsspeed said:

@Spencer what was that brand of epoxy primer, came in minty green colour

Yeah the cheapest/best one is generally protec epotec 408. It was their commercial product so cheaper but super legit. Its PPG epotec 408 now they got taken over ages ago, I got some recently its about $150 dollarydoos for a 4L kit used to be like $110

Small air grinder or electric equivalent grinder with smaller diamiter cutoff wheels used on the edge for grinding welds down. Again slower but you can get it near perfect then finish with rubber backed sanding disc on grinder. Dont use grinding or flap disc IMO.

Bubbling up usually means cut it out. Acid washing is for like surface rust or pitting that you want minty clean before paint and you cannot smash it with abrasion.

If your car is 1.2mm then thats fine buy that, find it strange though not many cars actually have thick metal on them. Most old US cars etc have had under 1mm steel. I say get the thinner shit as its easier to form, same reason for getting cold rolled its amazing to work with after fucking with zinc sheet which is junk. I would have both thicknesses on deck if you can get it easy.

They are good for the UI for navigation/music/podcast apps. I have a average android headunit then using car play my older car has decent navigation in the dash. The native android apps look like a toilet in comparison as not many are made for the car.

So bigger rad is next right? Maybe some realestate sign ducting up front to see if there is some weird air shit going on in front with the intercoolee etc. like force it to suck air from up front probably won’t do shit but seen it help before. 

So missed it but you have some china H beam rods? the ebay ones?

CP make pistons? like $1000? is that the path to spin this to 9k later once this one throws a leg? Said it like three times but I didnt chuck any in the engine $ it got closed, happy to chuck in 1/10th of piston costs for the best project on oldschool.

Open up the rod and piston kitty so we can spin this to 10k no bang.

Looks good enough man just send it.

V8 noises and plush suspension, living the dream.

Good to see we are on the 3" or bust train. It was settled many moons ago that small engines need 3" pipes minimum.

Yeah use a tailpipe bung thing maybe then whip it out to run 12's

Actually how do we get this on garage 4AGE? Are non 4AG allowed? 

Pretty sure some aftermarket pistons and rods are in your future. It will still be a pretty cheap fast car with those bits done. 
 

Missed chucking some corn in the engine fund, once the engine is in start one for KPR/Sheepers headers/ exhaust combo. 

Will be easy to get whatever piston you want made for this if you have $$ (like $1500-2000 at a guess) we will need to up the kitty moneys though lol

OK so we are pooling funds for some KPR headers and a block. Send some stockers and the tail pipe section off the back of them for template.

Yeah my fan sharn is with the Buick which was a hot thing, has a massive stock radiator. Tried electric fans for less woooo noises from the engine driven fan. First semi-cheap electric fans were not enough would creep up at idle, then big expensive ones still creeping up, then made a shroud better but still shit comapred to stock would creep on the gauge in traffic. I figured the only way to make it work would be how the after-market kits seemed to do it, with a even bigger alloy rad (the stock one is honestly huge) and then with the bigger/better alloy rad you can fit two even more massive aftermarket fans with a shroud. I went back to engine drive as it moved 8 billion times more air, like a hot breeze blowing on your ankles when beside the car the electric fans did nothing like that just a small puff.

I did use one of those Volvo jobs on something, they work pretty mint seem to move way more air than aftermarket fans but ugly as. So as above maybe try smash something factory in is the go.

I think somewhere in the thread there is mention of ebay headers? but needs the exhaust changed to 3" so waiting on that. I would also send some corn for a new block, since this is the best build thread on oldschool etc.

Yeah you dont need a spreader here the manual is above, pretty simple.

^ yeah good call.

Amazingly this manual I used to use in like 2007 is still online. Pretty sure like 99% of the time the washers on the old diff that come out end up doing the job.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/manual.aspx?S=RA&P=32

You should be able to dig up a manual for a Celica or something that shows detailed setup of the F series diff. From memory there are various sized shims to set the preload, you probably want the correct ones rather than grinding them. When I did a LSD swap to a Altezza torsen LSD the stock shims just worked close enough luckily.

Yeah it will work without it done correctly but never idle and start nice, it will idle high and hunt around. Should be like one wire from the MREL pin to get the ECU to switch the relay for the injectors and idle shit. Can’t remember if it is +12 or ground but there is 1 million pin outs etc for these now days.