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Spencer

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Everything posted by Spencer

  1. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    Yeah a 20L of wax and grease is not expensive last time I checked. Usually bulk wax and grease and general thinners from the paint store are cheaper than turps etc.
  2. Etch primer is like a million year old paint technology, for the days of single stage solvent cured paints it was the stuff for metal adhesion. Its gargabe though if you leave it around it will rust, it does not seal and it will fuck out if you put a 2 part product like bog over it (it can peel off etc). I would only use it if I was painting some 1K laquer or something on the cheap, even then why bother you can spray 2k epoxy it is not as deadly as 2k urethane to do at home. You can bog on metal the data sheet will tell you to do that, however most will do it on top of epoxy primer I think both are acceptable. Then epoxy on top and you good. Buy good filler evercoat etc.
  3. Yeah the cheapest/best one is generally protec epotec 408. It was their commercial product so cheaper but super legit. Its PPG epotec 408 now they got taken over ages ago, I got some recently its about $150 dollarydoos for a 4L kit used to be like $110
  4. Small air grinder or electric equivalent grinder with smaller diamiter cutoff wheels used on the edge for grinding welds down. Again slower but you can get it near perfect then finish with rubber backed sanding disc on grinder. Dont use grinding or flap disc IMO.
  5. Bubbling up usually means cut it out. Acid washing is for like surface rust or pitting that you want minty clean before paint and you cannot smash it with abrasion. If your car is 1.2mm then thats fine buy that, find it strange though not many cars actually have thick metal on them. Most old US cars etc have had under 1mm steel. I say get the thinner shit as its easier to form, same reason for getting cold rolled its amazing to work with after fucking with zinc sheet which is junk. I would have both thicknesses on deck if you can get it easy.
  6. Get some cold rolled steel not zinc plated, its easier to work with. 1.2mm is too thick get 0.8 or whatever the correct gauge is. To keep it simple go get some 2 part epoxy primer you can brush it on or spray. Use it for everything to do with covering up exposed steel you dont need any other products. Many ways to skin a cat but I ended up with a process like: make a patch -> paint shit with epoxy (back of patch, inside crevice, seams etc) -> let it cure overnight -> weld it in -> epoxy everything and done. If you epoxy between spot welded seems you need to use like a spot weld or flat drill to clean it off before welding, its not "weld through" but it sticks like fuck even close to weld areas if its cured. Rust treatment products are also mostly bullshit, you should aim mostly to remove with abraision. The legit products are acid (usually phosphoric) works to remove rust but mostly on big flat panels or parts you can remove and soak, inside crevices its not as easy to use as it goes places you dont want it and cant wash it out. Also if you are mig welding stick it in with basically big tack/spot welds and grind them down as you go (like do them 2cm apart then clean it up/repeat), its slow as fuck but give the best results less warp etc. If you dail in this method you get almost invisible weld seams, practive first make sure your spots penetrate enough not just weld on top. Sometimes some panel beating on the way helps to flatten things out.
  7. So bigger rad is next right? Maybe some realestate sign ducting up front to see if there is some weird air shit going on in front with the intercoolee etc. like force it to suck air from up front probably won’t do shit but seen it help before.
  8. So missed it but you have some china H beam rods? the ebay ones? CP make pistons? like $1000? is that the path to spin this to 9k later once this one throws a leg? Said it like three times but I didnt chuck any in the engine $ it got closed, happy to chuck in 1/10th of piston costs for the best project on oldschool.
  9. Open up the rod and piston kitty so we can spin this to 10k no bang.
  10. Looks good enough man just send it.
  11. V8 noises and plush suspension, living the dream.
  12. Good to see we are on the 3" or bust train. It was settled many moons ago that small engines need 3" pipes minimum. Yeah use a tailpipe bung thing maybe then whip it out to run 12's
  13. Actually how do we get this on garage 4AGE? Are non 4AG allowed?
  14. Pretty sure some aftermarket pistons and rods are in your future. It will still be a pretty cheap fast car with those bits done. Missed chucking some corn in the engine fund, once the engine is in start one for KPR/Sheepers headers/ exhaust combo.
  15. Will be easy to get whatever piston you want made for this if you have $$ (like $1500-2000 at a guess) we will need to up the kitty moneys though lol
  16. OK so we are pooling funds for some KPR headers and a block. Send some stockers and the tail pipe section off the back of them for template.
  17. Yeah my fan sharn is with the Buick which was a hot thing, has a massive stock radiator. Tried electric fans for less woooo noises from the engine driven fan. First semi-cheap electric fans were not enough would creep up at idle, then big expensive ones still creeping up, then made a shroud better but still shit comapred to stock would creep on the gauge in traffic. I figured the only way to make it work would be how the after-market kits seemed to do it, with a even bigger alloy rad (the stock one is honestly huge) and then with the bigger/better alloy rad you can fit two even more massive aftermarket fans with a shroud. I went back to engine drive as it moved 8 billion times more air, like a hot breeze blowing on your ankles when beside the car the electric fans did nothing like that just a small puff. I did use one of those Volvo jobs on something, they work pretty mint seem to move way more air than aftermarket fans but ugly as. So as above maybe try smash something factory in is the go.
  18. I think somewhere in the thread there is mention of ebay headers? but needs the exhaust changed to 3" so waiting on that. I would also send some corn for a new block, since this is the best build thread on oldschool etc.
  19. Yeah its pretty basic math that a 3" pipe is needed here.
  20. Yeah you dont need a spreader here the manual is above, pretty simple.
  21. ^ yeah good call. Amazingly this manual I used to use in like 2007 is still online. Pretty sure like 99% of the time the washers on the old diff that come out end up doing the job. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/manual.aspx?S=RA&P=32
  22. You should be able to dig up a manual for a Celica or something that shows detailed setup of the F series diff. From memory there are various sized shims to set the preload, you probably want the correct ones rather than grinding them. When I did a LSD swap to a Altezza torsen LSD the stock shims just worked close enough luckily.
  23. Yeah it will work without it done correctly but never idle and start nice, it will idle high and hunt around. Should be like one wire from the MREL pin to get the ECU to switch the relay for the injectors and idle shit. Can’t remember if it is +12 or ground but there is 1 million pin outs etc for these now days.
  24. Yeah I fucked that up a few times back in the day wiring these things up like a 4age with just power to everything off the key. If you haven’t the ECU needs to control the main relay (MREL pin on ECU?) which powers all the EFI things on the engine. Let’s it hold power to the idle controller to reset it. Been awhile though and could be a bunch of things, definitely don’t need the coolant on the throttle.
  25. Glad you are messing with outboards again. From what I read pretty much all the gains are from the charge cooling from the fuel phase change. They dont put them on bikes and race cars for zero reason. I mean we have old mates beams as a IRL example, he picks up like 10hp on his beast motor with 80-90% outboards, I just made that up beacuse CBF looking but its close to that. Most race car shit will run heaps of fuel pressre and spendy injectors to make it all work real nice.
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