Spencer

What, no way. Single stage paint products go in the rubbish bin.

Hard to tell but looks like you let it dry on there, gotta keep it wet. I use the acid to convert surface rust but don’t bother leaving the acid finish for paint. Once you do the acid I usually sand/scotch brite the fuck out of it until it’s white and then wax and grease. Go get some 2 part epoxy primer, etch primer is shit.

This is the method, phosphoric acid and scotch brite, then epoxy. Don’t use single stage rust treatment paints they don’t have very good adhesion compared to acid wash then 2 part epoxy primer.

Yeah put a timing light on it if you can. Also old unused injectors love to be blocked up so could be a problem, I have had this a few times they were dumping fuel but just so shit that it wouldn't fire. Maybe triple check cam timing since the head came off. Lush whip also, Z10's are great

Just a opinion but the 5MGE with the lock-up auto go sweet as, wouldn't look past it to just get this thing lush as fuck and rolling around. Easier to slam dunk a auto 5MG and build a simple skid plate than manualise this thing tidily.

What is the suspension setup? hopefully wishbone front and coils on rear axle? if its leaves then its gay.

Epoxy primer the whole world, then some kind of cavity wax stz for all the cunty bits and internals.

Get it legal as is then send the kent to the bottom of the ocean? Or consider a 4age/2zz

Without googling too far into it what can you still buy for a 18RG? They are basically a tractor engine so I doubt it needs much to take 8psi, fresh stock rebuild would probably do that for 300,000km no prob. Just gap rings for boost/heat I think. If you need to go oversize and can get nice pistons then do that if you have the $$. Even then stock cast ones would probably survive ages on 8 pound if you had to bet on it. Bottom end is like no prob, oiling systems on these are good, any bearings will be sweet, just obviously get it all measured and machined to whatever is needed and build to factory spec. If you can still buy a fancy head gasket then do that also over a shitty repco spec one for sure. But even then these things don't generally blow head gaskets unless you cook them and 8psi is pretty gentle.

Hey dude. I'm currently in Melbourne but moving back to Brisbane in a few months time, I has no old cars at the moment as Melbourne is expensive and shitty. Sam lives out in suburbia and has some old whips so I have to live through him. Hemi is living in the land of red dust in WA fixing trucks, I think in like a year he's keen to take a pay cut and move to Brisbane so we can roll around in his C10. Whats going on for you in Sydney? I lived there for 6 months. Has the many jobs/opportunity due to many large corporations HQ'd there, but its also the most hectic/shitty city life IMO. I think @Honda Ass Dragger is the only Sydney cat I know of. What kind of shit car you going to get?

I think those rear wheel cylinders are on there also.

As Sheepers says those look like sumitomo calipers that are on many things. Under 70 crown on rock auto you could get new/recon calipers for like $20USd and a few pad options.

Yeah I have some boots and a chin up bar, 10min a day is about right. Combine with whatever exercises you have been given (some ab and glute stuff I would imagine) and get into as much pain free walking you can do. Should be a good start.

Can you build a sweet carbon fibre air box and run a maf? Air box seems like the win on throttles anyway? Then run a proper outboard injector setup plz. Maybe some fancy/magic high pressure setup seems to be the good stuff. Oh and I’m jelly of all your messing around with this car, A+ integration of cars/hobby/learning shit.

If you can’t open it up and do things properly you are best off with a wax product over any kind of paint that won’t stick. Bling a face mask and googles works fine, fogs up but works. If you spray outside with epoxy you are safe as fuck, honestly it’s the urethane and especially the clear that will murder you through your skin and eyes.

Brunox is garbage also. You prep steel with mechanical abrasion of some kind until it’s white, or acid wash it if it’s pitted and can’t be blasted/sanded, then steel wool scrub and clean it. Two part epoxy primer brushed or sprayed and that is pretty much it, we keep going over this every other month. Epoxy primer doesn’t have any where near as much of the death cyanide like urethane it’s much safer to spray in that regard.

Yeah it’s pretty garbage, did you use their acid wash first? It’s what they recommend and it helps. They use the POR15 tech (water cured urethane) in industry so it does work, but they have a prep process similar with the acid wash first I’m pretty sure. You cannot slap it on bare/rusty steel like people do, it fails all the time. I used it on some big surface areas in the past and ground it al off later as it is garbage compared to actual car paint products. 2 part epoxy primer is basically the only thing you should use on bare steel if it’s something you care about.

The 3m paint ones that are super common do. They just don’t advertise it as such. It’s absorbed in your eyes and skin so best to paint outside or well ventilated open shed and deal with the dust and things as you go.

Wheels take a beating so if you want it to last a long time you would use 2k urethane. Then it’s easy to keep them in tip top shape, you can wax, clay bar, polish etc real easy. Clear or single stage 2 part is up to you, single stage 2 part urethane looks kinda weird in some colours/applications,base and clear would be the go IMO. Its basically choose the paint technology that suits the durability you want. Solvent cured paint if you want it to last fuck all, modern 2 part paint for everything else.

Tear down the POS that’s in there and get it measured, see if it will take a overbore and usually/hopefully bottom end shouldn’t need much. That’s like couple hundy and wait and see what comes up second hand in that time. End of the day you sink a grand or two in ghetto rebuild or maybe less if the universe deals something up used. Any kind of conversion does not gain any return, it’s counter productive to house buying/saving and free time. This should be pretty obvious.

Life is hard man, keep it up.

Man I hate it when you get to a point where you have to do way more than you intended (story of OS cars). But as others say it looks like you should whip that motor out and pull all the seam sealer and floor deadening, blast it, patch it, epoxy, seam seal, paint all in one go. If you are balls deep and keeping this thing then may as well make that front end last as long as you will and not have to look at it again. Poor old thing is melting in the front end, I would want to kick all that in the dick.

Yeah and the weight of the car. Crown wagon weighed nothing in the arse and needed like 20psi, and maybe 50 in the front at cruise height. My numbers were just for argument sake. It had no shocks and man you could feel the difference in spring rate with pressure front to rear, rode best loaded up with cunts so you could run more air. It’s fact you get less spring rate with less pressure which intuitively is the reverse of what you want (for slam, it’s great for load carrying you can add more spring). In practice shit is gravy. Run the biggest bag you can fit for more volume and better ride when low.

I’m wrong all the time. I think rookie was right in some sense, he’s saying it seems the purpose of bags is to roll around with your car slammed. But when you have low pressure to get the car low you do get less spring rate which seems like it is exactly what you don’t want, he was asking a question. In practice though you never really roll at max slam dragging the chassis with 15psi in the bags unless you are like 22 still and trying to be awesome. Even then a low spring rate when slammed actually works quite well on the road, especially with good bump stops and shocks. IRL it’s never really a problem because you roll a couple inches above max slam and by then you might have say 50psi in the bags and shit is all good, driving on a cloud etc.