~Slideways~

Cheers! The boring out of the flange isn't making it any bigger it is just removing the internal weld. The welds make it a smaller opening than the ports in the head. The mitsi manifold spacing should work with the mx5 flange/port spacing. I haven't gone any further on this yet, other projects taking up any time I have. I doubt the bolt holes will work but it's an interesting though, it might be possible to redrill it. But my plan has always been to cut of the Mitsi flange and weld on the Mazda one. I am yet to confirm clearance, I think I will end up cutting the bottom section up to have it point more towards the rear of the car as it currently points straight down (which could still work but not ideal).

Yellow base coat is 1k, I was surprised at first. I went back to the supplier and they said it's normal. So just went with it.

14 months since I started sanding this thing... wife was taking kids away for an afternoon so planned to put some paint on the boot lid and some other bits that were ready. Mostly to test out the paint and make sure I wasn't going to end up with reactions etc. Better this than on the whole car. I've never painted 2k clear so needed to test how much to put on and mixture etc etc. Of course the weather was terrible so I couldn't even move it to the space I have mostly ready to paint in. Thought bugger it and made a booth of out plastic sheets in the gap between the back of the Safari and the garage door. So I could keep the fumes out of the house (bedrooms above garage). And couldn't move Safari out into the rain because I am working on a few spots of rust. Mixed paint. Didn't take photo's during, but here is the final product. Some bits got into the paint but should wet sand out hopefully. Got some runs, but only where the clear has accumulated at the edges in a few spots. But good practice for the rest of the car. Very happy with the colour, its exactly what I wanted, a very rich sort of burnt yellow rather than a pale yellow. Clear is still drying, I didn't realise it takes 24hrs! I guess thats why they have paint booth ovens. Can't wait to do the whole car, needs more sanding though.

Awesome stuff, have you played around with the Autotune option at all? I was planning on trying that out on my mx5/speeduino/itb thing but its been about 14months since I started a 'quick respray' for it.

Super cool that it's on the road now! How have you found the ITB tuning with the Speeduino based ECU? Did the wof guy mention the head/ITB's?

Also regarding the supercharger, they are not very good. They make about 100kw - 110kw at the wheels on a good day. They are just too asthmatic and produce lots of heat. There is/was a reputable tuner in NZ called Andre Simon I remember talking to him about an S/C aw11 he was working on. I think it made about 115kw at the wheels with lots of playing around. This from the guy who was world famous for his tuning. Don't get me wrong, the 4agze is a very fun engine. I had a later MAP sensored one (from an ae101) in my old AE86. That had a 11psi pulley, front mount intercooler etc etc, great fun but probably only made 100kw at the wheels, great torquey fun but once I went turbo it was like night and day. Even a worn out oil burning thrown together stock ecu big port 4agze with a worn out t25g made 125kw at the wheels without even trying (10psi trailing off to something lower because it was stuffed)

I've had several 4agze turbo's, 200kw at the wheels will be a piece of cake. I've had: 4agze big port, 8:1, completely stock internally including cams. Link ECU, t28 turbo. That made 150kw atw limited by 365cc injectors. Boost was something like 15psi from memory. 4agze small port Stock internally. Bluetop cams. 8.9:1. Link ECU and TD05 16G, 510cc injectors. That made 220kw atw on about 20psi. Super responsive too. I've had other set ups like a big T04e turbo one and stock 4agze ecu's (AFM and MAP). But those two were the main ones. The main weakness is draining oil from the head back to the sump. All 16v's suffer from this if racing it with constant high revs. I made baffles, huge external oil drains, completely rebuilt etc etc. They all did it, fwd and rwd etc etc. I think the best solution is a restrictor in the feed into the head.

Not really 'built' but it worked well. I needed to find an exhaust leak, so I taped the vacuum cleaner hose onto the exhaust tip and put it into reverse flow so it would blow into the exhaust. Then sprayed soapy water onto exhaust and found a couple of places. Looks stupid but it works.

So good! Looks like awesome fun on the track.

Found that the wiring for the brake lights on the original style brake lights are the same inside so used some from a damaged set. Removed the plug from the preface lift type lights and soldered/shrink wrapped: Yay, working type-x lights, the photo came out really dull/washed out but in real life they are a nice vibrant dark red: Sacrificial brake lights, cracked and chipped etc, in the bin:

Yeah these CP pistons should be within 1 gram of each other, will look into rod weights since I am using stock ones.

I think ceramic coating would be overkill to be honest. The stock pistons could have handled it, if it weren't for fueling issues. As for balancing, undecided. Inline 6's are pretty much the perfect engine for balance anyway, except v12's...which is just 2 of them haha.

Got a set of knuckles from a Ralliart Lancer/Cedia wagon thing. Normally they are 4 stud, but the Ralliart's are 5 stud with a very similar knuckle design. I measured the strut mount hole spacing (the two bolts at the bottom on the strut) and it's the same, but at some stage Mitsubishi changed to bigger bolts. The lower ball joint is different too, it's the clamp on type rather than the tapered hole type. But appears to be in the same place. Figured I could hopefully find a balljoint to suit. The driveshaft splines are identical as well. What I didn't think about is that the upper mounting point from knuckle to strut is also slightly thicker by only a couple of millimeters, so my Lancer strut won't fit. A bit more research and I found that this might be the case with the Evo 4 onwards anyway. So I guess either use coilovers for an Evo 4, only the front. The back won't work, but could possibly use Evo 1-3 rears. Or maybe try find a complete Evo 4 rear which would solve the 5 stud for the back. These Ralliart's normally have 276mm rotor's like the non-brembo Evo 4. But I plan on fitting the bigger 294mm and make some adapters to fit some GTO 4 pots which I have not bought yet but hopefully can. That way it should still fit within 17" wheels so will be able to use wheels I already have. Here is a completely unrelated picture of a steering wheel puller I made to get the stock wheel off of the 4wd Lancer, to swap only the Fwd Lancer that I will sell. The bugger simply would not come off otherwise. So I can now keep the Momo and boss kit that came with the parts car/fwd Lancer thing. I'd originally made it to pull the timing gear off of the 1jz.

Fitted lights: Car is filthy: Sooo much nicer: Did it properly with this stuff: Here is what the cracks in the st215 injectors look like: No update on the engine, except that it should be getting over bored at some stage soon based on the piston specs. Still a shame to hide these away, look at them! Have to wire the lights in since they changed the plug type and even the wire gauge on the later 180sx.

I hadnt thought of checking reisistance, thanks for the idea. It'll be interesting to see if there is a difference but eitherway I won't be using the ones with the cracks. Will take a photo when I get them back. I haven't yet bought new ones but think I will get them flow tested before using them. In other news it was my birthday the other day and months ago I had ordered some genuine Type X rear lights. I'd put it off for years since they are pretty expensive. Bit better buying direct from Japan but the shipping was still pretty bad. They arrived a while ago but decided to keep them until my birthday to semi justify buying them to the wife lol. Anyway, here's one in a box. Feels kind of silly since the car has no engine in it now.

The Xspurt 1000's appeared to be spraying directly on the very wide port divider killing atomisation and causing it to blow black smoke in higher rev's on the dyno. The factory injectors (and these 3sgte ones) have a nice 4 hole cap which sprays it down the ports at the valves instead of the centre. Using the 3sgte ones made it run better everywhere. Apparently the Xspurts work well on plenty of other engines though. I've had thought about unmodified Bosch injectors since they'd avoid the problem of spray pattern, but it looks like I can get some new genuine 3sgte ones for a decent price which would go straight in and still support 300kw's.

Well 2 injectors tested 8% and 10% lower than the other 4. One of those was on the melted number 4, so that has to be the cause. Spray pattern is good, but flowing less. Still doesn't explain the low load misfire behaviour . They are 3sgte 550cc injectors from a Caldina GTT, well two sets. Both used. Weirdly, it was noted that the plastic housing is starting to crack on some of them where the coil is inside the injector. Whether this is the problem, I don't know, it's like they got hot. I think one set of injectors has had a hard life previously because the actual colouring of the plastic is faded. I still have the Xspurt injectors but they didn't work well on this engine. The factory pintle cap with 4 holes divides the spray pattern properly and worked much better. So I think I will try get some brand new 3sgte ones, it is tempting to go for a different brand of aftermarket ones but they all seem to be decapped so will be like firehoses just like the Xspurts.

Sweet.

Went to pick a part to get interior trim for the 'parts' Lancer so I can sell it and they've removed all but one of the half dozen Lancers like mine. Which is a pain. The last one was a manual so took the trim I needed and decided I might as well grab the manual pedals etc for the 4wd Lancer. As I was taking the pedals out the fork lift guy came down the isle and I'm pretty sure he had no idea I was in there because he stopped when I popped my head up. He agreed to move it around the corner until I was done, it was just dumped on the ground but didn't really matter. I was going to take the shifter and cables but they were rusty due to a smashed windscreen so I just grabbed the pedals and clutch master. Will keep a look out for another one to turn up. It was a low km's one too so grabbed the cluster since I needed one for the parts lancer since I'm using the white face one in the 4wd lancer.

Haha yes I didn't notice to be honest. I had checked the other settings and they aren't in use. Waiting on results for injector testing, needs fluid first. Not really sure what to expect. In other news, I've just spent a large chunk on some CP pistons and head studs. Good to be a step closer to getting it back on the road. Have been working on getting some other cars ready to sell (Celica and Lancer) so I feel a bit better about the cost...

That's interesting! I don't have any memory of it doing that so it probably didn't, it was a 1983 model so pretty early digital stuff I guess.

Yeah I loved the interior, the seats had all kinds of adjustment too. Also the digital dash worked perfectly, was kind of funny having the fuel gauge measured in thick bars. Not super accurate... Pretty sure the digital speedo didn't read any higher than 180kph too haha. Anyway, that's enough of my old car haha. Yours is really what I wanted mine to look like, especially the front bumper. N/A power is really what these car's should have, the supercharger was fun but a screaming NA is just better.

Sorry kept forgetting to grab the old laptop with the last saved tune. This isn't directly off of the ECU but I don't think it will have changed from this. Update on the engine is that it has been measured and it is just over tolerance so really should be over bored, can probably get away with stock size pistons but the best will be to go with oversized pistons. So 86.5mm Am now trying to find a good price on some CP pistons, then will get the block machined based on those.

Found some! This is 14 years ago when I sold it (fourteen years...holy shit). This roughly 2001 or 2002 (20 fcking years ago) Stock bluetop 120km's and t50. Bought brand new Superlites because my dad got a good discount working for South Pacific Tyre/Dunlop in Upper Hutt. Might have been through Beaurepaires. Had good shocks and springs done by Ron Scanlon. After a few years it ran a bearing on Paekakariki hill and I put a 4agze from ae101 in it. Well Ron did. Wired by Nick Tollemache (spelling?) he used to race a purple ae86. I later put a W58 in it. It was very tidy (still have that steering wheel in my 200sx): I shouldn't have ever sold it. But I had it for about 7 years did autocrosses, Taupo (old track) and Manfeild (in the pouring rain). Drove it every day. Replaced it with an ae92 GTZ which I continued the idea of turbo charging the 4agze. tldr: spam about car sale regret.

Yep I'll have some photos at home. That is it on my profile, that photo must be from the mid 2000's though.