sheepers

yea i LOL'd at the time too, its halirious when stuff like this happens to other people who have tryed somthing a little out of the ordinary, worked through multiple challenges that arise from using the absolute maximum and somtimes more of what the car and engine were never designed to do. Those ''few special stages" were actually 40 or so laps of taupo's track 2, 3 laps of track 1, 20 laps of track 3. at a guess 1000km of gravel stages, a few hundred km of tarseal sprints and hillclimbs and the 16000km the bike had done before i bought it. me not knowing why it has done it and you being sure its just down to sump baffles is a pretty big assumption to make, i agree sump baffles when done right can only help the situation but in this case do you think the extra 500-600kg it was lugging around and the fact it was rearly pulling less than 7000rpm and mostly between 9000-11000rpm when being raced on the same bearings it was first put together with could aslo be a factor? if and when we get it going again it will more than likley be dry sumped but will also be pulled down a lot earlyer for a freshen up. please leave your details so i can get in touch if/when its going again and you will be more than welcome to come and see what its put through from the passenger seat, and the on going effort that goes into getting it to compete with 4wd turbo cars. i am also very interested in what interesting things you have done. sorry for posting this in here. please pay no attention to tom, or black francis, no one else does. he has had a number of his logins banned for reasons various, but you could just put it down to the fact that hes a shit stirring no nothing. i, and just about everyone else on this forum, value the input of people who have actually tried something and learned from it. please keep us up to date on your new engine build, im very keen to see/hear your car at full noise! sheepers.

i wonder about this.. ive never thought about it before but given how much effort it takes to keep a bike down during cornering it naturally follows that there is a large amount or force (centrifugal?) trying to push you (and the oil in your sump) back into the straight line that you came from. i reckon what you say is partially true KK, but i still reckon bikes get oil moving around in the sump to a large degree. i keep seeing that youtube video in my head about the test rig that Porsche built to subject an engine to the same G loads as a lap of the ring. that shit is fucking severe!! umm, car G's Vs bike G's? watch the video and tell me what you think? also, have been drinking to some extent.. but i doo have high and low beam headlights on all 4 as of tonight... sheepers?

you in my hood nigga? you gotta pay respect!! rotar still wont make it to burger fuel

yea, it is a bit much to expect a rotary to make it all the way from the shore

most of the engine bay wiring is finished. got idle speed control valve working, it idles very well now, even without any water. checked rev counter and it reading right. got temp gauge hooked up, reverse lights, alternator, all that shit. pretty happy with it all so far. i guess the next step is to get a radiator set up and put some water in it and see what happens. pic. wires almost finished, still got the white wire to re locate (had no appropriate gauge wire for that) and a few little bits but its starting to look pretty good. sheepers.

start at the end. ask yourself exactly what it is you want to achieve and what you want as an outcome. once you have that fill in the middle bits, simple. sheepers.

they wont "settle" at all. if your measurements are correct (and i mean CORRECT,you have made sure the tails of the new spring wont ride up on you bottom perch and the top is EXACTLY the same location as stock) then they wont change any form the day you buy them. king springs are using pretty good steel to make their springs and they are pretty reliable. if you put 1000 million tons of shit in your boot and drive to whanganui and back they may cry "enough" and crush a bit, but i doubt it. springs dont "settle" as far as im concerned. they find a better place to to locate on the stock perch, they rotate until the tail is in a hollow but they dont settle. most spring/height change issues ive seen have been due to the spring ends being wrong for the parts of the car that captivate it or crap springs in the first place. (toyota surf rear springs im looking in your direction, ditto land rover 89-93 rear springs) and just to add more to the mix, getting shocks shortened isin't that expensive? about 150 for a pair? i think thats what i paid last time. sheepers

yep, shes commin along. spent most of today doing fuck all, made a new part for the inlet pipe and not much else. it now starts and idles sweet as and will happily idle and rev with no problem. it wont fucking stop though, turn the key off and it just keeps on going. this is the next thing on the list........ the camera shake you speak of is actually the motor starting up. the camera is sitting on the roof of my blue car, no one is touching it, so the shake is totally induced by the V8, fucking cool ay. sheepers.

yea, forgot the mask.... no one tell the bad guys who my alter ego is ok?? the video gives you an idea but its nothing like how fucking intensely loud it is! i started it about 5 mins ago and my ears are still full of the sound. got my factory tacho working, got to sort out the alternator wiring now and start tidying it all up. sheepers.

filmed on location, using my phone just moments ago. takes a little while to load but it gives you an idea of the sound. sheepers.

cheers guys!! i dont reckon ill be running this at the next track day. i have the entire rear suspension to invent/ design/build/make work. lots to do yet............ sheepers

IT GOES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! connected fuel, flushed lines and hit the starter and it fired 3rd compression!!!! it sounds incredible with just the headers on it, its fucking loud though. i want to keep revving it and listening to it but its way to loud for that. will have to wait till i get home from work tomorrow and start it again, just so i can rev it. megga streisand!!!

been fucking around with wires. so far i have, engine cranking over oil pressure spark 8 injectors firing 2 fucked plug leads 1 fucked coil lead 8 fucked plugs no fuel pump no AFM pipe work tomorrow im going to try to remedy the plugs, AFM pipe and a fuel pump. i have a mate who works at Toyota but i cant get hold of him to try to get a set of plug leads. it should go once i have assembled the remaining few items. time will tell..... sheepers.

id like to buy "blocked idle jet" for 10$ please. i reckon you might get some wins if you give the carb/s a clean. sheepers

ill talk to the driver and see if we can come down for some beers and good/sexy times. bout time i made it down to the ham and said hello. sheepers

JY = white parts car i had. IZ = this car. also have plates from when my blue car was in australia, and plates from when my scooter was in australia......... sicko.

it is indeed a boags. well spotted. im going to spend a good chunk of time today working on the wiring. prob wont get to much "news worthy" stuff done but ill still get stuff done. sheepers.

tonight i got the zorsts back from the heat treaters and gave them a coat of paint. i then proceeded to put the engine in for the last time. i am megga stoked that the engine is in properly. i can now concentrate on the wiring and get it to run. here are some pics so this update docent fail, firstly, the obligatory "standing in the empty engine bay" shot (i should point out that all car work is done wearing my alter-ego persona's mask of "the great ballsupinator") engine in the hole for final, zorsts on, heater hoses connected, power steer lines in, fuel lines ready to go, clutch on, break lines in place, etc. all done ready for the next step. megga stoked!! sheepers (the great ballsupintor)

the pre heat does two things, it tries to minimise distortion by making the whole thing hot enough to allow it all to contract (after welding) at a similar speed. but the more important thing it does is allow your weld to be more uniform from start to finish. with something like a head which is a huge heat sink, you start you weld by pouring masses of current into the job to get the weld started, but having little or no penetration, as you go along and the job heats up and you need less current to get a proper weld pool but you find the current you set the machine to at the start of the weld is too great, and no matter how much you back off the pedal or move the torch away or what ever, your weld starts to sink and you have to stop because the whole area is about to fall away. you get a weld that is very different in appearance and strength from one end to the other. pre heating big things is a good idea. any help?? sheepers.

start with 4031. alloy heads are pretty good quality material so you might find 5000 series rods work better. i think you'll have to suck it and see TBH. it will more than likely bend like a banana, so try to get it as hot as you can before you start welding. sheepers.

no no. thats no problem, just pour oil all over the ground until the ensuing flood level rises enough to go in the bung hole. win. would probably be quicker if you did it with the car in a hollow of some sort, could cost allot in oil and time otherwise, like if you tried it on the top of mount eden, you could be there for some time. so, to recap, remote shifter = no problem to pour the oil down the shifter hole. gear box will eventually have correct level of oil in it, or too much. whatever. sheepers.

yep, its sweet, you just pour the oil in untill it rises up to the bung plug thing, easy.

you can get a small round piece of wood, put it in the chuck of your drill, put your drill in the vice, wrap some 400 or so sandpaper around said piece of wood and hey presto!! home made hone! spray a bit of crc up its freckle every now and then and give it a good reaming!! works a treat. give the thing a fucking good wash when your finished to get the shit out of the ports and youll be laughing like a guy who has two dicks. sheepers.

SIMON would you have any use for my patented "A1 turbo's bell housing make socket fit on head of bolt now" tool? i can bring it in all its complexity if you can use it, but i guess you've already got yours bolted up? anywho, let me know and ill bring it along. also, when putting oil in your gearbox, just pour it down the gear stick hole, simple. and to all people who have Rover V8's bring my book!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that is all.

more progress. brake bias valve acquired and installed so all brake lines are now finished. clutch line had to be moved to clear zorst so thats done. extractors are at the heat treaters being normalized and stress relived. i plugged the loom all back in and connected power to the car for the first time since Ive owned it and everything works. got head and tail lights, brake lights, indicators, dash lights, heater fan, cigarette lighter, horn, windscreen wipers and the relay's click when i hit the starter. got no handbrake warning light as yet and no light in my charge/oil pressure gauge. but all else is good. i have to tidy up/paint a few things them the motor can go in for permanent. ill twist a few wires together and it should go! but somehow i think its going to be a bit more difficult than that. sheepers.