sheepers

how much does a 1JZ-GTE weigh? i weighed my 1j using my getto scale system. me and a friend both checked the system for accuracy (by standing very still while the other one added up the weights) and we also used a W55 to check the system and it works fine. the 1jz has no oil in it, it has no power steer pump, no air con. the flywheel and clutch were counted as well as all the intercooler pipes etc. the results, 1jz= 225kg W55 (steel sandwich plate version) with dellow bellhousing= 41kg. sheepers.

how much does a 2JZ-GE weigh? 218kg's thats how much. using my highly testanogical weighing system i weighed my motor. i reckon you could have an error of + or - 5kg's at the most. as you can see the engine has the original dual mass flywheel on it but no clutch, its also missing the rear half of the exhaust manifold,(forgot to pick it up when i got the motor) prob about 5kg's. no aircon pump either. latter, sheepers

ive been through them all man. there is nothing that is even remotely close to narrow enough. criteria was, modern with easily obtainable replacement /after-market bits GOOD standard geometry with adjustable camber and castor plenty strong enough to never have to worry about it again. there will be no defeat, only vast quantities of time and money, as per usual. sheepers.

ive got a couple of others. ill add them tomorrow. 1uz, 1jz, 2jz-ge, 2l pinto. sheepers.

how much does a 3T-GTE weigh?? it weighs 165Kg's that how much. i reckon you could give or take 5 kg's to account for my ultra accurate rig but this is a pretty close number. as you can see motor has alt, turbo and manny (no dump pipe) clutch and fly. sheepers.

well ive been doing some measuring and stuffing about and ive arrived at a final figure of 85mm per side must be removed to get me back to stock celica hub face to hub face (1370mm total) im going to have a look around a 4x4 wreckers tomorrow and see if i can find some nissan navara shafts that are somewhere near right. if i can find some that are 3" shorter then we'll be in business. im not holding out much hope though, this would make a very short shaft indeed and not the sort of thing youd want on a long travel 4WD setup, time will tell. and so this update isint completely lame heres a pic of the cradle stripped ready for me to make a jig then cut it and shut it.... sheepers.

i have it on good authority (Jamie with the 4WD 1UZ turbo TA22 told me) that nissan navara shafts have the same ends but are shorter so im going to investigate this first. it would be extremely excellent if i could get "off the shelf" bits to do the job. i shall see. sheepers.

they are only splined at one end, the other end has the ball race carrier as part of the shaft. i think anyway, once i take it fully apart and clean the grease off it ill know exactly how they are made but at this stage it looks like one end is the ball race carrier. i think the only reason one end has a spline on it is so you can get the boots onto the shafts....

^^all of what you have said is actually a thing called "an opinion" you have tried to present it as a "fact" but at the end of the day it like your arsehole, everybody's got one. have an opinion, express it (thats what the internet is for, no one listens to us in real life) but dont try to make out that your view is worth more than anybody else's. because its not. i think there is many a good example of old car/new wheel combos that look tops, but thats just my opinion. sheepers.

well, its funny how you get yourself into these situations but here i am. i have had a re-measure of the rear subframe. in order to get it the same width as stock celica( and therefore run the uber dish that should be required by law on these cars) i need to take 95mm out of each side. i cant shorten the arms by this much because the geometry will be poked so the only option left is to cut and shut the cradle. you can see now how i have begun to paint the floor, working meticulously away from the door into the farthest corner. from here it goes downhill. cutting the cradle isint toooooo much of a world stopper and at this point i think i can pull it off. it will require some "interesting" bulges in the floor and some very delicate "rust repairs" to the chassis rails but sacrifices have to be made. but then we move onto the half shafts. ive not taken them fully apart yet and im still at this point assuming you can, they have a spline that fits into the ball carrier on the hub end so im guessing they come apart here. unfortunately the shaft is slightly "necked" so in order for me to cut the shaft down and re-spline it i will first have to build it up with weld so i can have the correct diameter spline. joy. its about now you ask your self "my god, what have i done" but in the immortal words of whoever it was who read the questions on master mind "I've started, so ill finish." and its with this new mantra firmly implanted in my head that i move on into the abyss. here are some things i know, my friend works in a metallurgy lab so i can give him a sample of the half shaft and find out what will be the best process and filler rod to use to build up the shaft. i have access to the gear required to machine the shaft and do the re-spline myself. my engineer has said i can legally do what i propose as long as he sees what im doing. so its all gravy really, what could possibly go wrong........ bloody hell. sheepers.

this is the current state of play. need throttle cable, radiator overflow /washer bottle and bottom valance. oh, and also an air cleaner, which i hadn't even thought about until now. everything else is done. it starts and idles from cold as it should and all things appear to be working. in the next day or two im going to turn it around in the shed and jack it way up in the air. then the fun begins. sheepers.

well, the radiator and fan is all mounted up and working fine, i dont have the thermo switch installed yet but i do have an override switch on the dash which is all hooked up and working. i filled it up with water and got it hot. no dramas to report. put a cap on the rad and got some pressure in the system and no leaks!!. the 16" fan seems to drop the temp fairly quickly so thats all good. and i didnt stuff up the hoses after all so that another plus. finished painting the engine covers and put them all back on the motor.. ive put the bonnet back on and its starting to look like a car again. i have to paint the filler panels (between the bumper and the grill) and the rad support panel. still have stuff to do like make throttle cable, find and fit bonnet catch, find and fit a radiator overflow bottle and screen washer bottle. have to make an air cleaner too. im sure theres more but i cant think of it at the mo... stuff is getting done. yay. sheepers.

my head hurts.

its official term is the "doowhacky"

the rear setup looks pretty sweet but the front could use some work. i reckon the standard idea of adding another link is probably a good one. just looking at the pic (with no idea of space constraints and whatnot) id be using the factory mount point in the lower control arm as the pivot point for a new forward facing castor arm, with some adjustment on it, and then make new mounts for the ends of the sway bar. something like that anyway. i dont know about other makes (they are probably all very similar) but AE86/KE70/heaps of toyota stuff has a separate castor rod and mounting frame thingo that un-bolts. maybe you could graft something like this into your fiat?? i have some you could borrow to see if they will work if you want. what did they do with the factory race cars? they were very successful so they must have sorted something out?? enough of my ramblings.... sheepers.

see if you can get your hands on some castrol super tt, it is THE best smelling 2 smoke oil there is/was. they dont make it any more but fuck it rules. its nostalgia as, as a kid being dragged around race tracks i assimilated the smell into my bran, latter when i started using it in my lambretta the memories came flooding back. bastard parents leaving me asleep on the side of a race track!!!

yes. that occurrence did take place.

my fucking supplier of boags has stopped selling it!!! piss staining wanker bitches!! ill have to do the rounds and try to find some more.... will see you on Saturday. at which point ill be passing on the torch labeled "Satan's Barbecue".

its a little way off driving yet............... still got the whole rear suspension to do. there will be ALLOT of work in that.... anywho, I'm going to do some radiator related shit tonight. need to make some brackets or something but the frame on the radiator i have is steel so i can weld shit to it. this will make life much easier but the rad is a bit of a bastard of a shape. would love to make an alloy one but cant afford at this stage.... I'm trying to get it to the stage where it moves under its own power by crissy but its going to be tight. just keep going and hope somehow it all works out right sheepers?

could be push rod adjustment? if the plunger in the master cant retract fully it will build pressure as you've described. you need a gap, or a "free play" bit at the beginning of the travel of the plunger so it can retract fully. if you've adjusted your pedal pushrod so there is no free play it will do what you've described. try changing that and see what happens. sheepers.

more things have been done. Ive finished the fuel pump wiring. most people just run the fuel pump off the key (because 1UZ's have weird twin speed fuel pump signals, or a completely separate ecu to run the fuel pump) but i wanted the fuel to cut out if the motor stopped, like in a crash or something so i used an LPG safety switch. its basically a relay that works when it gets a pulse from the tacho, or anything that outputs a pulse, you can run it using a trigger from the injectors. anywho, it has a 5 second timer in it so you have 5 seconds from when you turn the key on to actually start the motor. Ive also stuck some temporary mufflers on it but it hasn't made any difference, its still megga loud. been working on getting the radiator mounted and i also have a 16" fan ordered for it which i should pick up tonight. apart from that Ive had a few issues with the clutch line leaking. its not easy to remove the clutch lines with a v8 in the way. you know things are difficult when you have to start cutting spanners in half just to get the nut undone. and i also put the wrong length spedo cable in the car so i had to change that with the motor in the way. apart from that shes all good. i shall continue to move forward. sheepers

stick a timing light on to No1 plug lead and crank it over on the starter, if your lucky and its dark enough around the front pulley you should be able to see how far off the timing marks on the pulley you have set your dizzy to. im guessing about 10 Degrees would be close enough for it to run. sheepers.

i reckon youve got your ignition timing out. crank the motor over and use a timing light at the same time to see what your static timing is. also, backfiring/coughing is a sign of incorrect firing order, maybe your leads are on the wrong way round? sheepers.

yea i LOL'd at the time too, its halirious when stuff like this happens to other people who have tryed somthing a little out of the ordinary, worked through multiple challenges that arise from using the absolute maximum and somtimes more of what the car and engine were never designed to do. Those ''few special stages" were actually 40 or so laps of taupo's track 2, 3 laps of track 1, 20 laps of track 3. at a guess 1000km of gravel stages, a few hundred km of tarseal sprints and hillclimbs and the 16000km the bike had done before i bought it. me not knowing why it has done it and you being sure its just down to sump baffles is a pretty big assumption to make, i agree sump baffles when done right can only help the situation but in this case do you think the extra 500-600kg it was lugging around and the fact it was rearly pulling less than 7000rpm and mostly between 9000-11000rpm when being raced on the same bearings it was first put together with could aslo be a factor? if and when we get it going again it will more than likley be dry sumped but will also be pulled down a lot earlyer for a freshen up. please leave your details so i can get in touch if/when its going again and you will be more than welcome to come and see what its put through from the passenger seat, and the on going effort that goes into getting it to compete with 4wd turbo cars. i am also very interested in what interesting things you have done. sorry for posting this in here. please pay no attention to tom, or black francis, no one else does. he has had a number of his logins banned for reasons various, but you could just put it down to the fact that hes a shit stirring no nothing. i, and just about everyone else on this forum, value the input of people who have actually tried something and learned from it. please keep us up to date on your new engine build, im very keen to see/hear your car at full noise! sheepers.

i wonder about this.. ive never thought about it before but given how much effort it takes to keep a bike down during cornering it naturally follows that there is a large amount or force (centrifugal?) trying to push you (and the oil in your sump) back into the straight line that you came from. i reckon what you say is partially true KK, but i still reckon bikes get oil moving around in the sump to a large degree. i keep seeing that youtube video in my head about the test rig that Porsche built to subject an engine to the same G loads as a lap of the ring. that shit is fucking severe!! umm, car G's Vs bike G's? watch the video and tell me what you think? also, have been drinking to some extent.. but i doo have high and low beam headlights on all 4 as of tonight... sheepers?