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CUL8R

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Posts posted by CUL8R

  1. From what it looks like, you're pointing at the "kick panel" 

    I usually have a look on yearone/summit/ogpi etc and try decipher what the yanks call each part - heaps of things seemingly have well different names to what we'd call them. 

    If you need any steel parts, I cant recommend Retroautoparts thoroughly enough - you can pick up the Parts or he'll bring them in, generally for less than the cost of the Parts online overseas.

    Must be some good F-Body groups on facebook to join too for advice? 

    Thats a big 10-4 Snowman lol

     

     

    • Like 2
  2. Why not buy a 5.3 LS Long block out of the states. The iron blocks are cheap bullet/proof, and you being you will want to turbo it. Aftermarket support is 2nd to none for the LS motors

    I bought in 3 long blocks recently, and basically per longblock $400 freight/customs charges for a used dressed long block..

     

    On that note, if you're doing it properly Id be having a Moser Engineering 9" brought in, I had them fabricate the housing for me, bought the axles locally - for my short axle about 4 years ago afaik $180+, long axle $225+ - you can have gun drilled ones for less weight, and good for 1000hp. For a full floating housing (with hubs) I think was Circa $1500nz with a backbrace installed and guaranteed straightness - far far cheaper than anyone could build one for in NZ. The diff head was the spendy bit. But the 9" ratios from 2.72-7.33... Nodular iron is cheaper, but can get bolt through alloy carriers, daytona pinion support (even external pump/oiler/coolers) Full spool 31 spline would be the ticket

     

    • Like 4
  3. ^ I ran the soda crystals in the Gemini back when we used to live in the same street Bart. I think I ran them in the car for a week, then dumped bottom hose, rinse/repeat and It ran clear.

    The Gloria just had 45min of back flushing when I got that (whilst running, dumping straight into the farmers paddock) - and it'd been parked for 15 odd years or whatever it was. Then it ran clean, however ultimately the Water pump impellor was rusted away & radiator still needed rodding out. 

    I would just about put the shitty one back in and run it up to temp/cycle a few times with above concoctions then dump/back flush?

  4. If it helps any, you have a couple of manifold choices - theres a RWD Camaro/Firebird Manifold that has a forward facing throttle body. 

    There's also a high rise FWD Plenum, but the upper plenum bolts to the lower manifold and can be flipped to rwd, from a Buick Lesabre 

    Both are being used now by Stockcar guys over here since injection is now allowed..

  5. Not much help but down Whitehall st I noticed a Capri under a tarp..

    Street Viewed it for you, #3 

    Friendly knock might be able to allow you some templates to be made

    Also, Chris Leigh from Kiwi Auto died, however he retired from running the place Afaik, and his son Blair has been running it for a couple of years now. Maybe just shut down for Christmas/New Years?

    • Like 1
  6. Nankang AR1 are Actually made in 245/40r15 also;

    205/50r15

    586mm Diameter

    225/45r15 

    583mm Diameter

    245/40r15

    577mm Diameter

    Personally I like the rears you're running shape...

     

    Other option would be Nexen SUR4G (but nil stock in NZ) , There is some sizes listed in the about to be released Nexen N Fera Sport R, but none in stock in NZ.. I'd wager the AR1 would be the better option for you however

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