cubastreet

I dunno, the one with no soul. I just googled and it's a TS. Thanks all, I stuck the charger on it and the and the gauges now work. Charging at 14.1V but if the battery voltage is low on startup, the gauges stay off. I really need to get the brumby back on the road. Is your one still alive J5 or disassembled?

Pour it into a jug. If you do it in one slow movement you can get pretty much all the beer out without disturbing the sediment.

Battery is old but starts the engine fine. I might put the charger on it just to be sure. It runs with the gauges on the back seat so the immobilizer isn't there

My newschool 05 astra gauges all stopped working a week before wof day. The next day they started working again but a couple of days later they stopped and haven't worked for a week. I tried disconnecting the battery and I pulled the gauges and plugged and unplugged then as few times but they're still not working. The tacho motor just quivers whenever it has power. I'm thinking I'll head to pick a part and get another cluster. Can I just swap them or will the ecu fight me? Anything else I should try?

Minnie?

@Unclejake I used to own a London ambulance that had airbags and leaves on the rear, and the ride was lush.

I bought one of their original kits that came as a bare pcb and components, and it worked well.

Makes sense I guess, not for the OCD cyclist though. Sheldon said that 90 degrees was quite common but I don't think I'd like that in the corners.

That's them! Makes sense as the bike was bought in Seattle. I'm hoping this guy is right that magura pads can be easily made to fit. https://m.pinkbike.com/buysell/1752648/

All the brakes needed was adjusting with a 2.5mm Allen key. They're fantastic, though the pads have gone hard. I've ordered some kool-stops, which I think are made the same place I bought the bike. There's no markings on the brakes other than the IC sticker. I took it out for a solo run and it handles pretty well.

Thanks, awesome info. There's a thumb screw on the right side of the brace to release it. None on the rear though. There's no branding anywhere that I can see, but they look well made so maybe very early Magura. Neither are leaking so I guess I should be able to get them working OK. Looks like it originally had a cantilever on the front and a Ubrake on the rear. I'll have a play in the weekend (still Friday here in murica) and take a couple of pictures.

I just bought a tandem. It's basically an early 90s mountain bike with an extra seat and crank. It's got hydraulic rim brakes which need a bit of a tickle. I'd like to keep them if they're not too much trouble, but if they're not worth it I'll chuck some V brakes on. Anyone know anything about them?

CTRL+ALT+DEL Our first computer was a colour genie. 8KB RAM and a tape drive. There was a club based in Auckland we could order games from, and the monthly newsletter had a BASIC program in the back which took forever to type and never failed to disappoint. Next was an 8086 with 2 SSSD 5.25 drives. Dad bought some more RAM in Aussie and Roger down the road came and soldered it in, which brought it up to 512KB. I bought a used 386 in uni and the hard drive failed. I invested in a 540MB hard drive, which was pretty big at the time. Alan from the shop came and installed it for me and found a bud on the carpet so we went and spotted it then went out for a beer. We became good friends. I bought a 14.4K modem and got my first internet account. I paid $7 per megabyte.

Cheaper than buying 13 new dog kennels ae!

Always thought oil pressure switches were normally closed so the light comes on when there's no pressure. The one on my generator certainly is.

I went back to it and noticed the pushrod guide is worn out. Possibly because the stud on that side was a tiny bit bent, I dunno. Anyway I've splashed out $9 on a new guide plate, pushrods, rockers, studs and nuts from eBay. Hopefully that'll sort it.

I've got a Lifan 420cc motor in my mulcher which was working fine until today when it started crackling then died. The rocker arm had slipped off the side of the inlet valve. It's obviously been a bit wonky for a while as the bit where it pushes the valve was quite worn on that side. I filed it a bit better, which didn't help, it just keeps slipping of the side of the valve. I swapped rockers over which improve things a little and it'll idle ok but with increased revs it just starts crackling like mad. The pushrod seems straight, the only thing I noticed is that the inlet pushrod spins quite a bit when I turn the engine over, which the exhaust doesn't do. Any idea what's going on here?

How hard is it to rebuild a diesel injector pump? I can get a good deal on a 93 surf (2LTE?) that has a leaking pump.

There's those old bunkers and gun emplacements on the hill between Shelly bay and scorching bay. Just go up the drive with the sign that says keep out.

Yeah single cylinder, two camshafts in the block.

The classic Ford article is a worthwhile read https://www.classicfordmag.co.uk/tech/tech-ultimate-guide-bike-carbs/ I welded up some dual port subbie ea81 heads for my brumby with R6 carbs, I think they're 35mm. Original heads are Siamese. Life got in the way though and I still haven't put them on, it's been about five years!

I just bought a ride on mower with a Kohler engine. It's an OHV twin cam. I assume it has two valves, so why would they put two camshafts in? Their website says better cooling, more power (600cc/16hp!) and longer life, but I can't think how this would be true. Marketing gimmick? Or is there something in it?

I think R&P is why I like driving my brumby so much. It's got the power of a kei, understeers like a Kia and rolls like a ketch in the corners, but the steering feels so direct I never tire of it. I say do it.

It's a while ago now, but weren't some people 100% sure that a truck could make it around that corner? That cabin's looking awesome UJ. I'm doing a tiny house build this summer but I have no comprehension of timber framing so it'll be welded steel with wood stuck on to it.

Would you really need a crane? I'd take them up there (and round the corner) on a truck.