yoeddynz

Ooooh that's small. This one I've made was 45mm tall, enough for the cross over bit of steel the centre bolt screws into clears the choke plates. It works fine but his carb smells, and it's running rich - suspect the float height is too high so probably prudent that you check the float height on your new carb is set right. I can't see how it's gone out though. Brand new carb and supposedly set up for the 3Y from the suppliers in oz.

I've just finished the steel carb hat/filter adaptor thingee. Waiting on paint to dry. It's basic and nothing to flash bit it'll work fine.

Nice one

I'm just super stoked to see that your back on here posting updates. Glad to see this project still moving

A few months ago I fitted the exact same carby setup and kit that you've got onto a 3y powered hiace. The kit came with a Ramflo filter (no less...) and although it works ok it lets through a lot of fumes and is slowly turning into a flammable time bomb. So the van is back in right now and I'm going to build a steel adaptor to suit the original low profile Toyota carb top hat. I'll report in with progress for ya. BTW- I had to mill/slot out two of the holes on the adaptor plate because it did not line up perfectly either. I made a manual choke cable using a bicycle cable that runs to a easy pull loop under the drivers seat.

So now your suit cases are going to get wet

@Roman I hope you appreciate my stunning technical drawing...

please please please don't do what the lazy folk in the UK do and vent the radiator out the bonnet. Imo it ruins the clean lines and just looks a bit naff. Its very easy to cut a hole in the spare wheel well, brace it and make a nice bit of ducting to feed it out there I'm amazed at how well my setup cools that Datsun down -only a couple of times has the fan had to kick in and that was on stupidly hot days when stopping after a hot run. I think quite a bit of heat is lost just off the pipes heading to the front and back. Your small all alloy scooby motor wont take much to cool either. EDIT : I just read that you've already gone done punctured holes through your bonnet. Might as well add a scooby wrx bonnet vent, pointing backwards then. As for your front inlet- there's heaps of airflow through the opened up hole so just make a simple bit of ducting to spread that flow across the radiator face. You can angle the radiator too which helps as the airflow pulls more off the fins if it has change its angle as it flows through. No more holes!!! Naughty Damian. Bad boy! No pudding for you!

It's gonna be a proper hot summer for sure - perfect timing for the running in the new motor in the marahau fire station imp...

This is sooooooooooooooo much cooler than the mustang. Good life decisions. Ate you not tempted to it back change it back to manual?

Thanks Dave. I'm glad you like the workshop photo. It took me 11 hours to carefully clean it all up before I took the pic.

Can't ever remember them having a soldering station attached though? Yours must have come from a better specced car.

yeah that's them I think. They were mounted on a steel bracket iirc?

Thanks so much for the offer Stu but I think I'm sorted on the ignitor now. However- the info/ideas for ignitor possibilities is good stuff for future readers of this thread with similar needs. Heya cool- can you PM me a pic of the coils? They might be the same ones I had used in my Viva. I guess you had got them for your Maxi project?

I'm still chipping away at the small jobs. Like most of NZ its been pretty wet outside recently which makes being stuck in the workshop even more cosy. I took this pic the other day. My cosy setup. Drilling and milling jobs are the warmest right now Hence I spent a bit of time staying warm and making some of the big chunks of alloy lighter where I can. Starting with the rear plate.. Then the sump plate... To aid the retention of the sealant I machined in some grooves between the bolt holes on both the plates. I'll be using good quality 3 bond sealant but everything helps. So apart from drilling and tapping a drain hole (suitable plug ordered) and making some anti-windage sheet metal bits the bottom end is finished. Oh I also lopped off the remaining unused original engine mounts - bit more weight lost Heat management time. To keep the cam cover seals from the radiant heat off the manifolds I needed some shields. I have had a basic design in my mind for ages but keep ignoring the fact it had to be done because not the most exciting job. First off was to make some brackets to mount the shields to. A bit of 1.5mm stainless and some marking out. drilling and shaping.. A fold.. Now I had to do a second fold to form a tight Z shape. But my folder won't allow such close folds and I really want these to be neat, one piece items. So I made a teeny tiny press brake. Milled a block of steel out... Milled a bit of plate to suit... Welded it to another bit of plate and welded a bit of pipe atop that and pressed away. (I really am super happy I built this press !! ) Now I had the tight folded Z shaped brackets I wanted.. Tidied up.. Fitted in place... I then cut some 0.9mm thick stainless shields to suit. I think I can go thinner. Not happy with the weight of them... Remembered I have had a bit of titanium sheet kicking about since I was a teenager - my sisters old airforce boyfriend obtained it from from the airbase and i was going to use it to make a cycle bottle cage or something - when titanium anything on a bike was super cool. But I never used it. Its lighter, but not by much and too small in size anyway. But now I'll just have to think of something silly I can utilise it on in this build - just for laughs/bragging rights So I'll probably get a bit of 0.5mm SS at some point for the shields. But for now I have at least got something to deflect the heat. They bolt to the brackets and will have some sort of heat resistant phenolic spacers to help prevent heat soak. Bolts were tigged in place.. Shield in place... Next up was the pipework as mentioned in the last post. I cut the old one up and carefully welded its shaped end to some stainless pipe. Not super pretty but happy as the OE pipe was less than a 1mm thick so it tested my skills. Then I started building the pipework in bits... I got as far as there and had to stop because not enough bends to complete the path I wanted the pipes to go in - I had used two bends for the exit from the other head. More bends are on their way from China as I type. Moving on to the next job I'd been putting off which was to make a half moon trigger/phase wheel for the cam angle sensor. I had already made a bracket to suit the Peugeot 307 hall sensor and knew the diameter I needed to start with. I rummaged about the steel racks and found a suitable piece of 3mm thick plate. Plasma cut a disc from it... Then into the lathe where it got a big hole sawed out from its middle. Much quicker than drilling and boring... Then bored out to final size - the process of which created a nice pretty lathe snake which came out of the lathes spindle... I carefully marked things out, drilled some holes and mounted the plate to the cam wheel. Note my lovely warm workshop/homeless person gloves. The bolts will be changed for countersunk items - the dome headed ones protruding just touched the reinforcing ribs within the cambelt cover.. The camcovers are well overbuilt and wont be in danger of getting hit in the back of a car like they could on a motorbike anyway so in an effort to make sure there's plenty of clearance I milled the ribs down.. I'll mill the slots out to suit on the trigger wheel and will add the remaining bolts (just in case 3 wasn't enough). It'll have half of its circumference machined down, with a corresponding amount in weight removed from the other side just to make some sort of effort to keep it fairly balanced. I bench tested the Peugeot sensor I had picked up from the wreckers - its a dud. Probably what sent the car to the graveyard considering the prices that the local NZ suppliers want for them. A new one is on its way from overseas. I have also ordered quite a few other little bits. New terminals for my injector plugs and a crimping tool. I'll be ordering other terminals to suit the various plugs that will be adorning the engines injection and ignition system. I want to create a loom without any unnecessary extra joints. I have never used a proper crimping tool as such. I got a set of little stainless tools for dismantling various connectors. Already used them and quite a breeze compared to my old screwdrivers, nails, pliers methods. I need to suss out a suitable idle control valve. On the Mazda V6 engined Viva I gutted the original Mazda throttle body mounted ICV and machined up a nice little alloy housing to suit its PWM solenoid, so creating a remotely mounted ICV. I'd like to do the same but I don't have any Mazda TBs kicking about and there's also an abundance of cheaply available copies of Bosch remote ICVs available online (with good reviews) so I'll think some more about this bit. My ignition setup is coming along - big thanks to @fletch who is posting me a Mitsubishi GTO ignitor module. I'll most likely get a Mondeo/Jaguar v6 coilpack for the ignitor to..ignite.. So many different brands The sticker list on the side of the completed car will be long. 'This car has been brought to you courtesy of the following' .. Hillman cars Honda Goldwing motor Subaru transmission Honda civic clutch plate Subaru clutch disc Honda civic alternator Subaru starter motor Ford Mondeo clutch release Honda crx(?) throttle body (thanks Chris ) Nissan Micra injectors Mitsubishi ignitor Jaguar ignition coils KMC bmx oil pump chain Lego Mandolorian inlet manifold plenum guardians

@fletch that would be superb of you! Thanks so much. Would be perfectly ideal for a mitsi coil or one of the ford mundano V6 coil packs I have in mind. I didn't actually know these ignitor existed. Just did a quick search and found this info... https://www.stealth316.com/2-pwrtransunit.htm That mitis ignitor module has just what I need because it leaves the ecu to control dwell etc (which if my memory serves me right is about 3.6 ms for the mitsi gtslow coilpack I'd used in the Viva) I'll send you a PM

yeah - that's what 'd like to create. The old bip373 ignitors worked so well on my Viva with a second hand mitsi GTslow coil pack. So looking to re-create that setup with easily available parts in NZ.

Cheers. I've been looking at those too. Someone on the MS forum had mentioned them. I found this interesting site on modifying them which shows how they are put together... https://vr6coilbracket.com/2011/02/11/how-to-install/#jp-carousel-197

Ahhh yes- Cheers HandofWayne. I had already found that thread a while back when looking. I'm not sure if no thermal protection is a big deal, especially if like you say I can use fuses instead. So yeah - this one you've linked to could be the go.. Details here.. https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/detail/onsemi/ISL9V5036P3-F085/2509749 I've only just setup an account on RS. Not looked into digikey yet. I presume joe bloggs can create an account and order just a few bits ? That thread is for the 'lesser' models. I'm running a ms3x I plan on building the same setup I had on my Viva V6 - three ignitors mounted to an external heatsink separate to the ecu. It worked well. The barely got warm. I won't be asking much of them, same as on Viva it'll be a 6 post coil running wasted spark.

@gibbon ask @kws just how much difference a wideband can make - if only to economy.

I don't think so but I can check. I think I'd have remembered seeing them because I was sifting through my little box of speeduino bits a few nights ago.

@h4nd ... cheers. I was after 3 bosch BIP373 ignitor drivers but its seems they've been out of production for a while. So the new alternative is this... https://www.diyautotune.com/product/coil-driver-kit/ But postage is excessive. So I looked up OnSemi EcoSPARK IGBT and found them all over the place but there's various different models and my brain started to smoke when I tried to work out what to get. Like this... https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/igbts/2410728?cm_mmc=NZ-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_NZ_EN_Fallback_Whoop-_-(NZ:Whoop!)+All+Products-_-2410728&matchtype=&pla-293946777986&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnf-kBhCnARIsAFlg492mG4wDqPoHH3pRLzCB_sjehTvm24w4QkREUBR61FSGuxw4wSha4ooaAhzoEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Please make some big cone titties..

Nice wheels!!!

I'm very excited about this decision you have made. Going to watch this unfurl with much interest. I've got popcorn and everything. Also - is this some sort of Rothmans liveried racy transhit...