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yoeddynz

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Everything posted by yoeddynz

  1. Continuing on with cleaning bits and fitting them. I gave the inlet runners a tidy up with a wire wheel. I was tempted to paint them but decided I like the raw alloy look and they should be easy enough to keep free of any oxidation. Bolted together and fitted.. Happy with them. Next up was to finish off the filler tube. I had five of these arrive from the land of Ali. I took one apart and studied it and after a stiff coffee eventually came up with a plan on how to cobble it into a unit that would fit the cap, be easy to remove if needed and really easy to change the batteries. Split apart all the bits look like this.. The light unit together.. machined a recessed hole in the cap. No going back now.. Switch in place.. Switch pushed down... light does its thing... Well. That's that done. It'll no doubt get stolen by some little light fingered shit at the first car show the engine cover is up at.. Now back to the topside. The Honda civic throttle body needed some modifications and add ons to suit its new application. The first thing was to sort out a inlet stub to suit the vacuum line that will run to the ECUs map sensor. The Honda had originally been fitted with an external map sensor that goes here... I machined up a plate, machined a little pipe with a flange, bent pipe in vise with a bit of old air rifle barrel, recessed plate to suit flange, epoxied it in place and bolted the assembly on. In pictures... I also needed to make a fitting for the idle control valve hose. The area under the throttle body where it fits is very tight so I had to really whittle down a lump of alloy until it fitted and press a custom pipe in place. Again in pics.. Not a lot of room.. Now a cable pulley to suit the imp throttle pedal. I measured the pulley I'd previously made to suit the Hitachi carb that's fitted to the Datsun A12 currently in the imp. Double checked the cable pull offered by the throttle pedal. Drew up a sketch and started machining. I offset the centre just like I had done on my second iteration for the V6 Viva, so gearing down the first bit of cable pull and making for a nicer smoother throttle opening. Fitted in place. Had to add a stainless stop to the pulley so I can manually adjust the initial opening as per the original pulley fitted. Luckily this throttle body has 2 return springs (another large one is hidden behind the TPS sensor. I need two springs to satisfy the certification process later on. Now I needed to make a bracket to suit the throttle outer cable. More alloy swarf was pinged about the mill... resulting in this... Mounted in place. Note the slotted mount holes so I could fine tune the cable exit to suit the offset pulley. I made a gasket to suit the TB and with that I am pretty much finished with the fabrication of the engine parts.. (exhaust system beyond the headers is still to be made but I consider that's kind of separate to the engine) EFI wiring next. I did a quick measure up of things. I needed to know the length of loom I'd require to suit my ecu location which will be under the front of the rear seat. I also wanted to get some sort of idea as to where best to run the loom so its hidden from view but still easy enough to remove. I cleared the big mobile table and started sussing out the loom requirements... I have a DIY autotune megasquirt ms1 loom to use but since I'm using a ms3x I'll need a few extra wires not offered on the loom. Luckily I have my collection of Mazda and Nissan wires... I've also had this turn up yesterday. Its a 14pointseven Spartan 3 canbus wideband, along with a very nifty looking digital gauge, from the very friendly and helpful team at Justraceparts.com in Oz. So that's where I'm at now. I'll be playing about with lots of wires, sensors, crimp fittings, heat shrink etc etc I'm in no rush to get through this stage either because I enjoy wiring and its at its most fun when I can take my time in order to do a neat job.
  2. They all have the sane feed wire size that can either branch off from one or be in series. But whether branched off or in serious the feed is alot shorter then the earth returns which have to make their way back to the ecu. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the injectors needing to open quick (big low resistance feed to the injector coil) and shut quick (smaller earth returns can disipate the risidual energy quicker/hold less of it) #imnotanelectroniczspecialist
  3. Why is it that oem injector wiring features a smaller (20~22 awg) wire for the return to earth via the ECU compared to the larger 'feed' wire from the ignition supply. I'd always the amperage rating would need to be the same on both sides of a powered device? I've been searching Google for an answer to this question but no luck so far.
  4. So cool. Congrats on first start.
  5. Furrymuff. Those are all good valid reasons. Looking forward to the V6 jetboat thread
  6. What was the reason for not continuing on with this? You were so close. Great thread anyway and cheers for the entertainment
  7. Map based tune so fpr it is. Worked fine on the V6
  8. Ahhhhhh. I've never really thought if its needed or not? I figure there must be some sound reasoning as to why they are fitted to many N/A japanese cars?
  9. Vacuum source question time. The Honda tb I'm using has its map sensor fitted here... Which takes its vac signal from the engine side of the throttle disc... This is fine. I'm happy with that. I'll make a vac line fitting to fit where the Honda sensor bolts on and run my vac tube to the ecus built in sensor. My question is this.. Would it be fine to add a tee to the vac tube for my fuel pressure regulator. My gut feeling Is that it's fine. Vacuum is vacuum and they'll both get exactly the same signal. But thought I'd check.
  10. Ramflo is at least an extra 20 bhp plus the everyday excitement of if it might do this...
  11. Thanks man. Yeah I'm really stoked with how they turned out. Now I've got to make sure all the other engine bits and engine bay look nice and neat so not to spoil the show But hell this build is starting to drag out - just as many others on here have no doubt discovered it's that typical build thread 'all those little jobs adding up' stuff.
  12. We had the bloody JWs drive all the way up or driveway the other day, park in the yard and come up to try and convert us. They got told where to go very promptly. I need to build a gate.
  13. For now but now I have to add all the extra crap that engine blocks need to run
  14. So where I left off last time was the oil filler pipe and sight window ideas. I don't really need a separate flange now I have decided to run the pipe shorter in height. So I dug out another old bit of alloy, gave a it a clean in the lathe and welded up a new pipe.. While in Nelson city a week or so ago I popped into a plastic place that told me on the phone they had 25mm thick walled acrylic tube. Turned out they didn't and instead I left with some thin walled lexan (polycarbonate) tube, closer to 25.4 in size. It was cheap so I thought it gives me something to play with. I picked up some thin 25mm O-rings on the way home and started to suss out a way I could make it work. The plastic was way too thin to machine Oring grooves into so instead I machined some alloy ends with grooves. Cut a short length of plastic tube to suit.. Which was pressed onto the end caps.. I milled a window into the side of the filler pipe. Now I had some bits to assemble.. Fitted in place.. The bottom of the stub which the filler cap screws onto is pretty much at 100mm oil height. Bottom of the sight is 80mm. So if I aim for a 90mm height I'm smack in the middle. Some led keychain trinkets turned up in the mail from China and I have a metal 'momentarily on' switch from Jaycar electronics. I'll have a play about and see if I can make a neat enough attempt fitting it within the filler cap so it does something like this (using a bike light)... Back to proper jobs now. Painting and finish assembly. First though I wanted to check the TDC marks are correct and make some timing marks to suit on my alternator pulley. I set a DTI up and found TDC. Luckily it seems the factory marks are bang on. Paint time. I had bought some paint for the engine a while ago. I gave the block and heads one last clean and masked them up. Primer first.. Then top coat. I decided on alloy finish, similar to the original colour. Really just too tidy it up and stop the alloy getting that annoying light corrosion. Then that fun job of removing masking tape to reveal a neat finish.. I masked over the original hand painted OK checks - just because I like them. Engine painted I dug out the brand new head gaskets Id bought very early on... Torqued the heads in place and then moved onto the camshafts/camshaft and follower housings.. In place... Now I needed to finish the trigger wheels which meant getting them phased in the correct position. I laid out all the bits that go with the cam covers and pulleys. This alloy bit was damaged from when the original Goldwing bike must have been dropped (I think the engine must have come from a low mileage bike that had been involved in an accident many moons ago) It wasn't sitting flat and needed a bit of a straighten.. Simple I thought. I'll use the press. I carefully set it up on the press with various bit of metal so I could bend it back straight. I got it pretty good - but it needed just a little bit more... Bang! Whoops. * Pic is taken after I'd already started prepping it to weld. I preheated it in the oven and then carefully sticthed it back together. Not the nicest casting to weld but it turned out ok and luckily the repairs are not on display.. Welded both sides.. Trigger wheel time. First off I wanted to work out the wire polarity on the oem goldwing VR sensors.. Now I knew the timing marks are good I set up the main crank position trigger wheel in place and marked it. Then welded a stub of steel in place which was cut down to form a key that locates in the cranks keyway. I doubled checked the megasquirt MS extra build manual and removed the appropriate tooth so creating a 36 - 1 trigger wheel with a 50 degree offset. Then I fitted the brand new Gates cambelts I had also bought ages ago. Sadly I discovered they are English made which means they'll probably leak.. Now I could setup the camshaft position sensor trigger wheel - needed so I can run the injection mode as fully sequential. I had made this wheel a while back but had not yet removed the half moon of material. Annoyingly I forgot to weigh the wheel before I removed material. I now had no real accurate way of working out what to mill off the opposite side to balance the wheel out. Balancing it is probably not super critical but considering that at 6000rpm this wheel will be doing 3000 rpm I really wanted to avoid any extra throw out stress on the pulley or camshaft/camshaft bearings. The final nail in the coffin for this wheel was it slipping in my makeshift rotary table (actually just the mill vice which can be rotated to mill the concentric slot - which I did by hand) It slipped, the end mill grabbed and became two pieces with a loud bang. So I made a new wheel. This time I weighed it before removing the halfmoon. Then I was able to mill the exact right amount off to balance it as best I could. Weighing it before milling out the final weight reduction slots.. Setup in place.. All that sorted I could move on to a fun little job I was looking forward to. Painting the cam covers and sorting out replacements for the old badges. After a really good clean and some light sanding of the covers, which have been through the wars and have extensive welding repairs due to the same crash I guess, I laid down some primer. See one repair here... Due to the fairly rough finish I decided on wrinkle finish paint because it can hide sins and blemishes. I've used this same product to good success on that Mazda V6 I had plonked into my Viva HB so I was pretty confident on getting an OK finish. Covers were warmed up in the sunshine and 3 thick coats were laid down, 5 minutes between each coat. Once the paint did its magic thing they came up ok. I'm happy. Now the badges. I was going to try a couple of mates about getting something with the word HONDA 3d printed or machined in alloy but I really wanted to do it all myself and thought about some nice machined ribs to insert. they turned out neat.. Carefully fixed in place as per original badges with double sided foam tape... Covers bolted up in place. I'm really happy with the look
  15. So even worse for tasman places. I think the hourly rate at the place we got this wof yesterday is 80 plus. Very friendly, helpful and we'll reputed garage I've known for years.
  16. Took a customers van in for a wof today. $70 (we've usually paid $50 at our other garage) Cost increase is apparently due to the wof sticker prices jumping from around $480 to close to $1100 for, iirc, I think 7 packs of 30 stickers. Don't quote me on the figures as I've forgotten already but yeah - huge increase. From now on wof/cof testers entering the system don't have to pay the $1000 'registration' (or test fee) - this price is now absorbed by the wof sticker price. Quite a few other changes going on too. Looks like lvvta pricing structure will change too? https://www.nzta.govt.nz/about-us/consultations/archive/regulatory-funding-and-fees-consultation/proposal-6-changes-to-fees-and-charges-for-motor-vehicle-certifier-activities/
  17. Iirc they were/are often used in race engines that have terrible pressure buildup on startup. Some folks used them on the vauxhall slant 4 twins which have the oil pump mounted high and always took a while to build pressure (so terrible that I've seen photos of race mechanics having removed the top mounted dizzy which shares the drive and priming the oil system with a adaptor on a drill, then refitting dizzy quickly and starting the engine.
  18. Also.. I fixed the problem with that above imp..
  19. I think I'd probably end up with any chin spoiler fitted just spoiling a judder bar somewhere as my imps fairly low (hence swing back plate) but yeah - they do look cool with them!
  20. Oooooooh. Where did you get that spoiler from?
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