Raizer

I was under the impression that they were a total no go in general unless factory fitted?

I'm looking into ways to modify my Merc mufflers and hide a pair of valves in there, was told to hide the cables and controller well/try to convince WOF guys they are factory fitted AMG options haha

That's a lush muff!

I've used FMF exhaust packing sheet on a couple bike mufflers, seems to hold up well and the packaging says it adds something like 4hp haha

Got any plans on how to hide the valve actuators etc for cert/WOF?

Could try make the cable look like it's coming from an O2 sensor lol

"Compared to conventional type bolts, torque to yield bolts 
offer the engine manufacturer a number of advantages including; greater flexibility of 
design, reductions in component costs, more accurate assembly and reliability of seal. 
Engines designed utilising torque to yield (TTY) head bolts require fewer head bolts to 
achieve the desired clamping loads than those using conventional bolts. With fewer 
bolts the engine manufacturer has more flexibility in cylinder head and block design as 
well as reducing the cost of the engine."

19 minutes ago, dmulally said:

Is scratch start TIG a thing? I know for my one I have to get super close but wouldn't scratch start fuck up the tip? 

Yeah it's a thing, predating lift arc start. 

You want to be real good at sharpening tungstens with a scratch start machine as you will be sharpening a lot of them!

1 hour ago, mjrstar said:

^^ yeah 100% hf start if you are learning tig. Otherwise you will give up.

I persevered for a couple years or more, but now I've got a decent hf start machine with pedal etc I'd never go back.

I found starting the arc with lift tig easy enough, but having to try to speed up as things heated up and then breaking the arc at the end sucked!!   

29 minutes ago, shrike said:

What do these come in locally? the newer Commodores? I could have a look at local wreckers here in Ozzie land

Silverado etc

Briggs aren't really my field of expertise sorry, @ESKIN8R might be more help.

2 hours ago, Adoom said:

The stuff I have on my shelf is Duplicolor. I'll try some VHT. Thanks.

Peel the label off the Duplicolor...

/Might be the other way around, but either way Duplicolor and VHT are the same thing, one brand has a stuck on label on the cans, peel it off and it has the other brand printed on the can.

65km/h bursts would really have helped Domino's deliver pizza still warm

261923117237221080

Expires April 26.

3 hours ago, Roman said:

 wielding a marshmallow sledgehammer. 

Sounds like breakfast to go at Bort's.

Universal cut to length ones are a fair bit cheaper still too.

Pretty sure Clough42 uses a rotary encoder to sync..

Check out his YouTube, has a full series about it.

Lucas ACR alternator is def internally regulated.

Should still be pretty cheap and easy to get a brand new replacement.

Code: 259506484231715084

expires on March 29, 2024

You'll need some rubber garden edging and rivets to cover the tread if you go narrow.

/I'd probably suck it up and get the 4x4 patch panels and zap them on if it was mine.

And the genuine parts search option on WeBike

https://japan.webike.net/oem_parts/top/

Often use CMSNL to find the part numbers, then buy from WeBike.

On 16/02/2024 at 09:32, sheepers said:

 

 

How thoughtful was Toyota to fan force the drivers farts directly at the rear passengers??

Bit of mucking about to set up, but they can work really well.

I'll be putting one on my next rotary valve build.

45 minutes ago, kiwi808 said:

Our surf was the shape before but (apparently) the viscous fans on these is a weak point. More Barry surf’s might know more.

Yeah can change to a thicker fluid in them, mine was fucked that even with super heavy fluid it wouldn't lock up.

Thankfully it only cost me a head gasket and a gasket set etc rather than the brand new head to figure that out.

Brand new one was cheap enough that I shouldn't have bothered trying to mess about changing the oil.

Also the 10 blade fan from late model 1KD Hilux is a big upgrade from the stock 7 blade, @GuyWithAviators is the man to talk to about them.

Injector rebuild ASAP.

Even with an immaculately clean cooling system a sad injector will easily take out the head, learnt that the hard way.

That's actually a really good question that I'll try figure out tonight/tomorrow after work!

I know there's at least some droop, but yeah no idea how much.

That's a smart idea!

Current plan is a combo of trying that along with raising the rear 10mm.

Them alignment with minimal petrol in and cert with a full tank for the extra weight haha

19 minutes ago, cletus said:

That sheet is in degrees and minutes- that means 2°30' is your max not 2.50°

Ah so that's the minutes he was talking about!

There was some confusion when I was talking about bushings or arms that give X° adjustment and he was saying they'd give "probably X minutes"

19 minutes ago, cletus said:

I'd just raise it a whisker and avoid having to buy arms

So you're saying raise it up to 4% for cert, then it'll still be compliant with the +/- 5% variance when I drop it back down and fit camber bushings later right?

Think 4% is about 13mm at the guard.

I was talking to Mike Reid on Tuesday, seemed good to deal with on the phone at least, but he def made it sound like I'd be wasting my time taking it to him if the sheet is even a hair over the .50°, "but Euros have a huge factory allowance so you'll be fine with it slammed" lol