Raizer

Is the glass cracked badly in drivers field of view or barely held in with masking tape? No? It's fine.

Add the 10 blade fan from the late Hilux to that list too, big upgrade from the stock 7 blades. /I'm personally now in the mindset of not changing oil in the viscous hubs and just replace with a good quality new one and the 10 blade fan, 99% sure the hub is what lead to having to pull the new head etc back off mine at @Geophy's place back in May, had fresh heavier oil in but the actual hub had failed even through it looked perfect inside and out.

Are these the later E throttle version or the cable to TB? If cable type I bet the spindle seals are rock hard and leaking like fuck too. I did EGR delete, intake clean out, catch can etc at the same time, made a rather noticeable improvement to economy. Full 3" exhaust made an even bigger improvement, then injectors and slightly thinner headgasket when I did the head helped a LOT. Think the last trip I did was averaging low 9L/100k open road with some decent hills and twisty bits etc thrown in, totally stock I think it was something closer to 14L/100k but that was nothing cause diesel was under 90c a litre ha.

Butt dyno says my SC picked up a decent bit of mid range with the exhaust and it really improved fuel economy. But even if it hadn't made more power, the extra turbo sounds were well worth the effort!

Seriously recommend getting the injectors rebuilt asap. I bet it's never had them done in it's life. Also full 3" exhaust ha

More like 6/Merc could probably do it in 4 ha /8 after the Mrs Kmart etc stops are taken into account

I think with the risk of customs stinging me for duty I might as well pay the extra $ for BC Golds through Redline at this stage, way cheaper in Aus but after splitting into 2 parcels for Auspost and some drinks for @shrike to receive, package and send them kills the savings. Looking at going with Mike Reid for cert, he's listed as Tauranga and Gisborne. Would have bugged you Clint but "transporting" it late at night to Auckland, then bringing it back in the case of needing a recheck and fitting the dongle thing sounds like too much time and effort ha.

Currently it's about 50mm off the ground with completely dead air suspension, I'd like it fairly low on coils but I'll take whatever height I can get just to get the car mobile again. Sample pic from their website, that's on factory 18" wheels, I've got a lot wider 19s

@cletus any experience with TiTAN suspension/coilovers? /Anything to look out for on them in regards to cert? Seem to be pretty well regarded in Aus, but I'm 99% sure they are Malaysian rather than the Aussie made they seem to try to imply on the website.

There's a proper tool for getting them in after the screen is in.

Needs to pop a second 1nz, then he'll hopefully have 6 proven pistons and rods for a custom V6 build.

Worst case I'm sure you can find someone with a lathe that likes cold beverages that can make a replacement. The air bleeder fitting in the filler neck of my 1kz started life as a Honda CT90 axle lol

It's an M series, I vote keep them as it needs all the help it can get.

Pull and twist it out, press in a new one. Have done it with surprisingly expensive Toyota thermostat/heater shit.

I don't think Bunnings do CO2? Got anywhere that services fire extinguishers etc local? If you do that will likely do CO2 filling, used to get my airgun tanks filled at the local one

So at least you got the best part of the job!

Makes sense, they seem like a parts bin special using GT and 1600E parts. Meant to be NZ grown wood in the GTE at least, but the pattern sure looks like the E dash.

Was a one year (1969) special from Ford NZ.

I might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure knurled rollers are made for flux core wire? V for solid and U for softer wire like aluminium.

Ballpark to get you close to start.

Slightly bent LH axle in my good ute. Binding drum in the parts ute.

Mazda B2000 with LSD in it, failed WOF on dragging rear wheels/hubs (among other things) Figured it would be drums dragging or something, but with the brakes completely removed I've got to use a large amount of force to turn either axle, feels like brakes dragging still. But what's slightly confusing me is if I turn the pinion it's easy enough to turn by hand (left hand even), still a bit more resistance than say the open diff in my Hiace but nothing compared to trying to turn a hub. Unsure WTF it would be, thought maybe wheel or diff bearing, but my parts ute isn't any looser.

UniMig = Xcel-Arc in NZ. I still rate my BOC AC/DC tig highly. https://www.boc.co.nz/shop/en/nz/boc-smootharc-200-acdc-tig-welder-boctig200acdc-p-111

Can anyone see any cert issue with swapping out Merc "Airmatic" suspension for a set of these? Rev9 brand. There is BC options too, either look to be a lot better quality than the D2 or YellowSpeed options. Would have to run lower rear control arms from a slightly different model Merc (C211 arms into my C219) and leave the height sensor linkages in place to keep the ECU happy.