tortron

The Weedo maker

concur at do it yourself build a winding machine too, they are pretty cool

I have an SU carb book here with measurements of every needle made. Theres one online too if you google it, search SU needle comparison or similar

i dont think POR15 would like that^

Like owning a triumph? I love seeing two cars mashed together. Has to be top quality work however

^ will lose its gloss if left in the sun. wont fall off tho

paintbrush it on both killrust and por15 will self level pretty well - i.e no brush strokes

the black bit behind that thing with the 4 screws on it.

Morris minor gearbox as found in its natural habitat Grease and grime removed. Painted partly in stationary motor grey, and a red which i believe is original (all my other gearboxes have this red) And painted, looks a bit orange on my screen. Red is ok, could have been a bit darker. Will do the engine the same

Roll over bar stat This is so horrible

Sweet, next up is finding bearings to match I saw the other day unfinished pistons with alot of meat on them. Designed for the classic car market i guess. Pick whats closest and throw it on a lathe

head gasket doesnt always go between the water and oil, so could be between cylinders or what ever. Probably want to compression check whip the head off, and possibly get the head resurfaced. Hopefully its not warped or cracked

This was the "clean" side Combination of soaking in degreaser, standing infront of a bench grinder with wire wheel for 2 days, wire brush on a drill, and scraping with a flat edge cleaned them up ok. Drivers side grease had gone rock solid, fortunately it hadn't worn any of the assemblies. Have ordered a new swivel pin as this one was badly pitted (and has been for quite some time it would appear). Parts are cheap so why not, also ordered a bunch of rubber dust seal etc Now looking like this, note the brass trunnions. Went for a basic black and silver, would have been similar from factory (depending on what day of the week it was). Havnt bothered with a full polish on any of the parts, i prefer a clean brushed look over mirror finish. Should look good with the brake banjo connectors on there. Should also handle nicely too. Parts you cant see - fresh grease in everything, fresh oil in the lever arms, torsion bars trimmed to drop the front circa 2 inch

actually, looking at the picture i see the confusion That shaft is supposed to be open like that , is an off centre c shape

Bit hard to see with all the bits in the way, but the pump is still water tight (also it has broken clean off) That part is basicly a bracket which holds the impeller shaft. Inspection shows this unit has been damaged in the past - possibly a contributing factor to that failure (housing has a part broken off) Its noted in the truck history this one had its blades brased up and re ground. Not fantastic work, but it passed , its even signed and dated on the impeller With the unit off, it looks as if i could just tap some holes and bolt it back together with a heavy piece of steel Anyway Made a new gasket Installed good pump Reinstalled engine fan Shes all happy again. Am going to try motorcycle chain lube on the shaft and see how that goes Yes cam, it hurts me deeply to touch the parts pile. I guess im doing pretty well tho, its been a while since she was used daily

Might need to get your shoes shaved to match the drums. Were you using new ones?

Well Tits, not sure what could have caused that Options I have 1 very good spare 1 slighly damaged spare (chipped where i believe it would be a weak point and result in the above) get a shorter fan belt and simply not use a water pump, shes all go for thermosyphon Cast Iron unit, so im wondering who would be brave enough in the Hamilton area to stitch it back together for me

adjust the shoes to be as loose as to fit the drums on, then adjust till you cant spin them, then one click back otherwise try swapping your shoes with the others

Flap disk - 20ish bucks grinder, $30 upwards i guess

$60 for a gallon of premium grade 30wt oil I find my truck leaks less of the penrite than castrol

1/2 inch whitworth sounds about right pretty sure i have spares if you get caught out

Some nasty pictures Rust here was hidden nicely under the engine mount tower This is the front sill section nearly directly under that mount. Basicly from that rust back about a ft on each side has been replaced with a rough patch (they should have made it an inch longer eh) Good news is that that should be the last of the rust repairs. Split my engine and box today to check it out - one of the springs on the clutch had broken, and was probably part of my clutch problems way back when this thing was driving. Nevermind, i have two spare boxes and a new clutch (part number is the same as the 803 a series incase anyone cares) so will all go back together better than before. Next on the list is to re-captivate the gearbox crossmember captive nuts Then take out the diff and springs, so all that can be stripped back, painted and any rubber bits replaced as needed Wanted to do that today, but i dropped the damn gearbox on my fingers. Its small, but almost a solid lump of cast iron, now my fingers are simply too fat to work on the dinky little nuts and bolts in this

my word this looks nice

Grey Like my minor orginally was so british and bland, will look amazing on this

They make an awesome thunk when you open or close them