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Truenotch

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Posts posted by Truenotch

  1. 1 hour ago, Roman said:

    I still think the only good reasons for outboard injection is for engines that have poor mixing inside the cylinder (Super short stroke) so they need to premix it more in the intake. 
    Which is why some engines seem to get gains from it, others dont. Because you're only "gaining" what a longer stroke motor achieves inside the cylinder anyway.

    I reckon charge cooling is the other benefit for some engines. Both you and @kpr showed minimal gains from trying it and you both had plastic parts insulating your intakes.

    I wonder if I'd see more benefit because my intake is all metal and gets quite hot... I really should test that theory sometime...

    • Thanks 1
  2. 19 hours ago, Rhyscar said:

     

    Nothing of value to add here other than encouraging you to do this silly idea. We tried a woodstock/diesel powered 4age once. Was a bit low on compression and had a headgasket issue. 7%RON was obviously no good. 8% or 11% Cody's would have done the trick I'm sure. 

     

    2012-05-2923_22.15(1).jpg.0c73f76da09f24423833198f712f4cbd.jpg

     

    Goes good.

    • Haha 5
  3. 11 hours ago, BiTurbo228 said:

    There was a chappy called oldtuckunder in the Triumph world who did a fair bit of investigation of various aftermarket cams for the 2.5 OHC before he passed away. His main conclusion was that the advertised specifications of a cam (not just duration, but also the four timing numbers) didn't match anything at all on the actual cam grinds. He reckoned their main goal was to sound flashy so they sold cams, and make it so if someone went to a cam grinder and asked them to grind those specs they'd end up with scrap. Not sure if that's something peculiar to Triumph/UK cam manufacturers or whether they're all at it.

    His setup was pretty simple. Popped the cam on a lathe and attached a dial indicator and degree wheel, then turned the cam through its rotation and marked lift every degree or so. Not really accurate enough to reproduce a cam from (there's odd stuff that happens with where the radius of the dial indicator nose sits relative to the angle), but enough to get a decent comparison between cams. It's simple enough to do with a flat surface and vee blocks as well. I did it to demonstrate what everyone knew already: that the Rover 2600 in the SD1 was detuned with a weedy little bumpstick by comparing it to the M20B25.

    53150032629_eee14e4ffb_b.jpg 

    Interesting! I wonder if his numbers would have been much different if he measured at the lifter instead of on a lathe? 

    • Like 2
  4. 3 hours ago, Kerry-TGI said:

    Exhaust is 44mm which I think is 1 3/4", can get one 2.25" which is 57mm

    I think you should call a muffler shop. Realistically, it won't really matter what you fit, but you'll want something close to 44mm to avoid using a reducer. 

    • Like 6
  5. 2 hours ago, RXFORD said:

    If running a parallel 4-bar, a watts would be the better option, but due the extra cost/engineering of a watts the common choice is a triangulated 4-bar.

    Good info. I figured there would be some justification for most minitrucks going triangulated. I reckon a watts would be great.

    I'm sure you'd be skilled enough to fabricate the 4 link brackets and arms yourself @shizzl, just have to decide on the geometry before locking it down.

    • Like 1
  6. How come you're thinking of going triangulated instead of parallel with a panhard rod or watts? You don't have a back seat to worry about, so there's loads of options. 

    I reckon a 3 link with panhard rod would be the easiest option and would give you full articulation at any bag height. Can be set up for great handling too.

  7. On 21/07/2023 at 18:53, kpr said:

    toyota hemi,    basically  ultimate turd polishing.  along with low weight, close ratio box and  well setup cars. probably some exotic fuel.     Even though only 2 valve, the bigger bore than stroke allows bigger valves to fit in same capacity.    one of those engines that have plenty of scope to modify but nothing special in factory config.  

    The motor in @MaxPower 's KE25 is testament to what a 2T-B can do. It's a fairly basic block AAFIK (standard pistons) and has more compression, a big boy cam, good extractors and a set of sideys. It was ~120kw on a similar rolling road to what @kpr has and used to happily rev to 8500+. 

    It'd be cool to build a full-noise one!

    • Like 4
  8. @square, are you Queenstown based? I swear I saw this at VTNZ the other day.

    Keen as to check out the G20 one day. I owned one in the USA for a couple of months and miss it so much. They're great rigs. There's a few oldschoolers in town now, so we should probably all catch up for a brew somewhere.... 

  9. 12 hours ago, Roman said:

    Yeah metal 3d print is $$$$MegaNeds$$$.
    I could likely get something CNCd for cheaper. 

    Yeah for a 4-1 I've thought about adding that plate in the middle @BiTurbo228 but it's pretty tricky for a 3-1.
    As with the 4-1, the benefit would come from using the plate to initially pair only 2 of the cyls together, and the other two. like this. With some fuckery you could probably get the change in cross sectional area to two fairly small bumps. 
     



    However with 3-1 there's no way to divide them equally. 

     

    I'm pretty sure @Rhyscar added choke plates into his collectors for the 2ZZ. It's all in that 4 stroke tuning book, but dunno how to make it work for a 3cyl setup. 

    • Like 1
  10. 10 hours ago, Roman said:

    I'm not sure if there's any useful tuned stuff happening in the 2-1 part of a 6-2-1 setup. 

    Suurely there's something useful happening there, but the merge location might come down to packaging in the Carina?

    Here's a handy video to illustrate what an IS250 engine sounds like at half of your target RPM (still way nicer than a VQ): 

     

    • Like 1
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