Truenotch

What's the car and are they body adjustable? The correct way to get more droop is to add keeper/helper springs to your setup. It's easy to do, and if your coilovers are body adjustable there should be plenty of adjustment (body adjustment changes the total length of the shock). Here's the process I would follow: Remove springs and run suspension through its whole sweep with the wheel and tyre on. Take note of how much clearance you have at full compression (if any). You should aim to have the tyre as close to the wheel arch as possible at full compression for optimal handling. Make sure there's enough clearance for the bump stop to compress a little for big bumps (10mm minimum gap between tyre and inner guard). Use the shock body adjustment to set this height. Jack the car up and see how far it droops. Measure the distance between the centre of the hub and the wheel arch at both ends of the sweep to give yourself an idea of total available droop travel. Install your main spring (no keeper) and drop the car on the ground. Set your desired ride height for cert using the spring perches. The spring will probably be un-captive after this. Once ride height is set, jack up the car again and see how far the spring is from being captive. This will give you an idea of how long your keepers need to be. Install your keepers with spring locaters between the keeper and main spring You will need to drop the spring perch to account for the compressed length of the keeper plus the thickness of the locater to get the same ride height ??? Profit If you don't have enough perch adjustment, you might need a shorter main spring. Hope that helps.

I think it’s going to be put on hold for a few months.

Ahh, diff stuff. Here's one of my original 24mm axles I broke in the racecar... It made a mess. The original axles were mild steel and had been known to break for the car's entire life (it's got a custom floating axle rear end). So I got Howat Engineering to make up a couple of moly axles. These were the same size as the originals. The ends were hardened in an unknown way, but you can see the difference in colour on the splines: Business end: Big end: Funnily enough, I also ended up breaking one of these... It had created small fractures where the splines mesh into the side gears and broke into a psychedelic star shape which is quite interesting to look at. I think all my broken axle ends are still on a shelf in Dad's garage in Palmy. My next step was to get the side gears in the diff taken out the 28mm (same size/spline as an F series Toyota) and then got them electro hardened in Auckland. The current 28mm axles are the same style/manufacturer as the ones pictured above. They've lasted well so far and have taken the abuse, but I'm sure the splines are starting to stretch and wear slightly from my heavy clutch and aggressive left foot (although it doesn't matter at the mo as the car is sitting in the garage... in pieces.) @johnny.race - do you have the ability to make whole axles from scratch like the ones above? Because I might need your services one day.

Haven’t made much progress with this lately, but have bought a couple of bits to help with inspiration. Picked up this spanny, most likely from a YZ125 apparently. Offered it up to the bike and it looks like it’ll work with a bit of fettling. Also found this tank and guard that are a bit more suited to the style I want: might need to shorten the tail of the bike a bit to get the proportions right as the tank is slightly shorter than the original, but I’m happy for now.

Congratulations on becoming middle aged!

Bump.

Good stuff man! You should really think about installing a 3S if you want the AE86 to go any good.

Oh wow! Which BMW engine are they from?

Those carpark and snow skids looked fun! Keen to see more updates.

Crank seals / leaky crank case issues can be hard to diagnose too. Apparently it can make an engine appear to be running rich (and sound like it's 4 stroking), when actually it's leaning out. 2 strokes can definitely be challenging little things! But we definitely need to see more of them out there .

Flick me a PM with your shopping list. At this stage I’m only using the engine, rear wheel, swing arm and some electrics.

Gave the magneto and cdi pickup a good clean and threw it back on. Checked for spark and it was strong. Win! Today I collected a POS RX125 parts bike that had a DT100 engine. I took the gamble that the engine would be the same as it had a fresh oversized piston and machined barrel. Turns out there’s quite a few subtle differences, but it’s mostly the same. The barrel has the same casting numbers and looks identical. Got it home and started ripping bits off it. fitted the barrel to the MX100 Chucked on the FS1 tank as it still has some premix from the East Cape mission. It looks quite good with this tank! Got it together enough for a test run. Success! It runs. That’s one win for the weekend .

That’s a broad bet sir. Any guesses on actual sizes? I’m gonna say 50mm throttles and 120mm trumpets as a guess for peak power (based on TRD inlet manifold length).

Can you fit 4 x mini maf sensors?

It was great to see this at Leadfoot on Sunday! You've done a great job bringing it back! How did it run? I only saw you head up the hill once and was surprised that it wasn't crazily loud with non-muffled exhaust setup.

They’re good motors. Also worth looking at the Toyota GR series (2GRFE).

Re: pogo-ness You might find that adding a number of extra clicks of stiffness will fix the bouncing. If the springs are stiff then the shock will struggle to control the spring at low levels. I’d suggest starting at 1/2 way (8 clicks) in the front and rear and see how it feels. I remember Richy’s Torneo was set really firm (also had very stiff springs) and it rode like a dream.

Pulled the flywheel off: that’s one crusty stator plate! Any bright ideas on the beat way to clean the coils?

Hah! Steve and @mark105 had a similar experience with Steve’s DX100. Apparently his bike is a keyboard.

Then I decided to delve a bit deeper. These are CDI, which I'm stoked about as the points are the biggest letdown on the FS1. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the magneto cover screws came out without needing an impact driver. The cover took a couple of taps to come off, and then this gushed forth: I need to get my flywheel puller back from @flyingbrick to assess the situation properly, but that bad boy was full of rusty water! I'd say the cover area was at least half full by the look of the flywheel. I'm quite confused about how it got in there... My current theory is either that water has slowly seeped in during it's time stored outside or the thing was driven through a lake before it was parked up and maybe took a mouthful of water into the engine, which has eventually come out through the crank seals? Who knows! More investigation required.

There's a fair few thing to sort out (as you'd expect), but the first thing I wanted to know was how it would look without all the superfluous 1980's bits. I stripped it back and was pleasantly surprised by its bones: Popped the head off to have a look at the cylinder: Yip, the bore is quite rusty. After a quick measure it's still at the factory size (52mm) and there are piston options for up to 3mm overbore in .25mm increments. First big job on the to-do: rebore. Then I got it naked: I decided it might look better with the bars from the FS1, so I bolted them on and pushed it outside for a few pics: Oh yeah, did I mention it's small? Here's its stature compared to the FS1. The seat height is quite low with the '80s bolster seat removed. e It also has a decent dent in the tank that'll need dealing to at some stage... and I'm definitely leaning towards paying someone to do it.

I've had this thing for a few months now, time to start a project thread. After the East Cape Escapade I was super fizzed about riding on gravel and keen to build / find something more capable than the FS1 for such duties. After a bit of browsing around on trademe and Facebook, this little gem popped up in Wellington: It's a 1983 Yamaha MX100 and looked like the perfect starting point for my dirt track dreams. I got in touch with @My name is Russell to go and have a gander with the idea that he'd grab it if it seemed OK. The price was 150 clams, so I figured it was worth a crack! Russell took the family for a weekend jaunt in the Cortina and came home with the prize: So far, so good. Next was the challenge of getting it up the country. Lucky for me, @Carsnz123 and @smokin'joe were doing a freight run from CCH to drag day and had space on their enormous trailer. Woohoo! It's in Hamilton.

You’re doing great work! I’m taking notes for my MX100 rebuild soon...

Edit the first post. There's a tab above the title that says "Poll".