mikuni

We need to teach you how to drive ms paint, because that Sir, sounds amazing.

Cool man. Get some full face wheels and slam the shit out of that shit. (a Cosworth motor probably wouldn't go astray either, but you can start small aye)

Keen to check this out. Twin engine karts too? They appear to run a daytime format only (9-5) so might have to be a Saturday event. Will talk about it at the next meet.

Oh my! That interior, paint scheme and gear stick boot have me swooning. Good work mr.

Bit of a boring vid and doesn't sound very impressive, but here it is at Hampton. Basically just me catching that red thing but leaving it 1 lap too late for the pass (I had already passed my competitor on the second lap) Obviously quite the dream boat

Hopefully over Summer, but we'll see how it goes.

Yeah, well that's what I'm saying. And many engines have problems, not just leaning engines. It would be dumb to go to all of this trouble and still blow it up at the end of the day.

Could be. What is it for? It might be a little soon...

Oh cool. I'll go, but probably not with my car in tow. What is next? Are there any of dual sprint series coming up that people want to have a crack at?

It sounds like a good idea in theory, but will it definitely solve the oiling issues? Do you know of any super fast 306's or whatever that have run Hampton without failure? Also, if it's so tall that it may cause issues and require a dry sump, would it not be better to freshen up a motor like you have at the moment and put throttles a link and dry sump on it? Would easily do that for 8k and not have any of the unknowns that go along with it.

That sounds like a feasible plan. Where did the $8k come from though? You'd be able to do a plug and play throttle kit for less than $5k, so does the engine package cost $3k+?

I'm the exact opposite Heath. That sump guard has confirmed I'm not going to do any road racing. Yet, when I pulled in after my second run at Hampton Downs racing actual cars I literally had a grin from ear to ear. It's definitely the best track time I've had yet. The extra challenge of trying to get by someone adds so much to the excitement levels. I don't care if the times are down a little from being held up, once you get past them you can chuck a blinder in there to keep them behind!

As per the other thread, I'm using a Shorai bike battery in my race car. http://shoraipower.com/ They are expensive, mine was around the $250 mark and it is a little undersized for a normal car, but bear in mind it is a race car. I'm removing all of the electrics except for the windscreen wiper motor and I've removed a blade to reduce friction. Headlight bulbs have been replaced with LED bulbs and I might take them out altogether. For a road car with electrics you would need a much larger battery, but most older cars should be fine with a small one. This is my battery To give you an idea of the size - that's the battery in the distance on the firewall This method is good to reduce cable lengths and weight, and my battery weighs 764 grams, when my car battery was 14kg and a small SLA battery was around 5kg.

I've seen a video of one starting a massive high comp V8. It was a couple of sizes up than my battery, but like you say, small motor, small battery. Lead–acid batteries, invented in 1859 - is it possible that battery technology has moved on in 154 years? I think a lot of people just decide something can't work because they can't comprehend it. I kind of just like new technology and new ways of doing things, and this was a really easy way of saving 13kg. Definitely! I'm pretty much going to just tidy it up in it's current form and try and get it to a few events at the moment though. Before I lose the plot and chop it into a million pieces like the last one. Decided to grab a picture of my battery - I agree, it is very hard to comprehend after a lifetime of lead acid batteries, but it's working! Give you an idea of the size - that's the battery in the distance on the firewall

No Michael, that is unacceptable. It is NOT OK. Go to the back of the room. Cool car bro. Glad you got it in the end. Wait, that doesn't sound right. Also, I swooned at the Laguna.

Not sure about Li Ion charging, but Li Fe can be charged perfectly safely from a normal battery charger as long as it has a automatic cutoff once the battery is full. Charging from a normal vehicle alternator circuit will be fine for the most part, but you'd want to be careful with earlier vehicles or dodgy alternators. All that will occur is a damaged battery though, no explosion like may occur with Li Ion or Li Po. Shorai FAQ http://shoraipower.com/faq

It's measured in a different way to lead acid batteries. Do some reading on Li-Fe, they are pretty good. I would wager they'd last longer than one of those SLA batteries and are 1/4 the weight. Plus there is no acid in them, so they're safe to install in the car where as SLA technically are not.

Have a read up about them, they are pretty good. http://www.shorai.co.nz/ Mine was about $250 or so, but you can get larger and more expensive ones than that. My old battery was around 14kg and this battery is 762g. I have just bolted it to the firewall rather than relocating it further back as it is so light. To preserve it I'm using a jumper pack also, but this probably isn't required. A couple of race car builders said it's good to only use the battery in the car for running it rather than it getting hit hard by the engine start and having to be charged for the first couple of laps.

Don't laugh, but I'm using one of these Shorai bike batteries

Oh that's disappointing! That settles it then - no moving parts in sumps if it can be avoided.

Yeah I knew the pedal box was going to be average, so it's not too bad. It was about half the cost of even mid range with everything included and I just can't justify pouring money into those areas. I just wanted the cheapest way to lose the brake booster, ABS etc. I think it was about $700 landed included bias adjust, reservoirs, masters etc Steering is fine kk, don't stress. I've pedalled it around Hampton Downs for 10 laps and the small amount of play in the steering was the least of my worries. OH YEAH THE BATTERY! I forgot to mention that, I'll try and get some photo's of it up. I started it for most of the day on the jumper to project the battery, but when loading it on the trailer and into the garage I did a couple of starts off the battery and it started well. I think it's ok, but for absolute peace of mind it would be good to go up to the next size. I'm happy with it.

Pedal box was super shit Markku. The brake pedal bent a little bit (side to side, from heal toe) so I have to reinforce it a bit. I shouldn't have skimped on the lower end, should have gone mid-way but I still think OBP has the potential to be ok. I'd just weld a rod or something on the pedal to fix that. Also balance thing needs to be sorted out as that wasn't twisting very freely. Steering is sweet, that shaft will never bend it's like 25mm solid steel, even in a vice you'd not get any bend hanging off it. But the steering column is adjustable, so there is some movement in there. When I do a cage I will reinforce it a bit to reduce play, but the adjustability is good for getting out of the car because the steering wheel is in the way of the door a little bit. No idea on power to weight VG. Factory power is 150bhp at the flywheel, so hopefully a little bit more than that and probably somewhere around 1000kg without driver at the moment. I've only done 2 plastic windows so far and the sunroof is still in, so once I finish that side of things and take a bit more weight out I'll chuck it on a set of scales and see what it weighs.

It was real cool. Need to soften the front suspension a tiny bit and get a bit more travel because it lifts the inside wheel easily. Opening up the exhaust will free up a bit more power too. I think it will actually be quite quick after that, as it feels really well planted on the track and seems to be a good balance of turn in with lack of understeer and a tendency to oversteer a little bit mid corner which is fun. ky pretty much as spence said, but mainly the cool points. It's fun to pretend I'm driving a proper touring car by sitting real low and as far back as possible. I think it makes a difference though, because the car feels good on the track. Engine out the front is around 150kg and I'm around 180kg (despite what Sheepers may say, the fat cunt), so the further I move my weight back, the more it offsets the heavy motor hanging out the front.

Next stage is now complete, which consists of the following: Power steering deletion (done the right way by removing the valve in the rack along with all of the PS gear) ABS deletion Floor mounted pedal box installation Re-run brake lines and 't' them as required Fit new seat about 300mm back from original Fit steering extension so I can reach steering wheel Extend gearshifter so I can reach it Replace CV joint Replace radiator Fit plastic windows Cut the shit out of shit Drill some holes Fit bonnet pins and remove crappy cable Remove heaps of loom and other important bits Fit tiny battery Run new battery cables, kill switch etc Probably some more stuff, but the photos will remind me. Playing with things Steering wheel has some adjustment (see above and below) and is also removable UJ would be proud

Cool, 1:27.11 I'm happy for that for a first outing.