RUNAMUCK

Thanks Terry! I was too lazy to go back and try find it.

Id go HKB all day. I no longer have the photos, but i got one off aliexpress for SFA, and it was so absolutely atrocious i refused to use it. It was so bad i donated it to LVVTA as an example of whats out there. ( @KKtrips may still have it?) It was the stuff of nightmares. Because once bolted on, nobody wohld be able to see how terrible it was. And its a critical safety part. If it fails, youre gonna crash.

Bert at repco richmond is a menace for finding parts.

The other thing is the bushes on the shaft can slog out. If the shaft gets sloppy, the points gap can go all over the show.

If your dizzy mech weights are sticking, youll need to strip that fucker down. If you pop the cap, you should be able to turn the rotor approx a quarter turn, and have it spring back again. In a perfect world, each time tge pounts are adjusted, a drop of oil should be placed under the rotor. This dribbles down and keeps the mechanical advance arms lubricated. (Tbh, i never knew about this either) The other way to check it it to check the timing at idle with a timing light, (vac hose off, and plugged) give her a gradual rev up to 3000. See if the timing mark advances as you do. (Between 1800-3000 approx)

Assuming its a nissan FS5w71b gearbox, there will be bushes on the shifter. If these disintergrate, the shifter will get sloppier than Al's mum.

Can you buy drop spindles? That wound take you down to 30mm.

A mate put a VH41 into his cedric pillarless sedan. The trans was a total ball ache, so he ended up biting the bullet and buying a stand alone trans contol compter. It was expensive ii4c. I dunno if hes on this forum or not.

They also say atf and acetone works well too. I saw a video where some guy unstuc a mega seized ford v8 using hydrochloric acid. But i thought a non corrosive methos might be preferable.

Question for those who have played with rust removal via electrolosis. Do you thing it would work for an engine bore that was rusty A.F/seized? Fill the cylinder with washing soda enhanced water, susoend the cathode in the cylinder, and hook up tge block and cathode to a 180A arc welder. Surely that would boil the rust off the bore walls quick snap? Got a big, ugly in line 6 that sat with the plugs out for a loooong time. Havent pulled the head yet. But its seized hard enough that an attempt to tow it free blew the clutch. Worth noting its big, heavy and ugly enough that removing the engine will be an ordeal. (Let along handling it once its out)

Might depend on the motor? Some 308 had the TH bellhousing pattern, and some the trimatic. Aussies being aussies, its not inconceivable that tge cranks might have a different pattern? /idk tbh.

Remember way way back i shared with you a page with some "rule of thumb" formulas? And you ran the sums, and they said cast piston go BOOM? Is there any galling on whats left of the the pin boss? The last motor i destructively tested to failure had nasty galling on the gudgeon pins. And another piston was stiff on its pin too. Datsun motor go bang too.

A sticker fixes all. Rust hole? Sticker over it. Illegal and dangerous bar, sticker! Is there anything they cant fix?

Good to completely remove all the rust from the get go. I gave up on sunny ownership due to the endless rust battles. Even tidy ones start getting bubbles in cunty to fix places.

Last car i ran on cutties refused to self centre. I think it was the crooked load on the top cup causing the thrust bearing to bind up. Wofs were a cunt.

Does rhe spindle of your lathe not have a large enough throat to fit the shock in to shorten it? Thats i all did in the last shitbox i lowered.

Regarding your engine woes, there was a clever fellow who used to post on a forum which i used to frequent. He once reckoned that these motors made more power with a smaller oversize due to bore wall deflection. Given youre going to be forcing it down it its throat, (and you gotta build a new engine anyway) that might be a consoderation when selecting your replacement block.

Put the supercharger on the goldwing motor.

Aliexpress is a goldmine for silicon fittings at the price they should be

Spit on it?

Part of the adjustment involves having the upright link rod (which is adjustable) set so that with an (i forget what size) drill bit through the holes in the pivot arm which bolts to the back two bolts on the left hand side of the manifold they line up. (Youll see the holes, and click, ah, thats what theyre for) sometimes the standard adjustment gets cocked over by an aftermarket manifold. Although your edlebrock LD4B was available through direct connection back in the day. (Mine has a chrysler part number on it) so youd hope* that its not too dissimilar in fitment to a factory item. Lots of higher rise manifold cock things about. The kickdown arm on the trans controls the line pressure to (i think) the kickdown band servo* *dont take as gospel And if its not set right, shit slips and frictions burn up.

Hey, ive got a detailed torqueflite book you can borrow if you like? Aside from the pan filter, both band adjustments, and nd the kickdown, there's not a fuck of a lot you can alter on them without stripping it on the bench. Hit me up if you wanna grab it. Its at dads, but i can get him to bring it to town.

Bravo sir. Now, do a skid......

Depending on what its been painted with, (a lot of never caravans are powder coated) an arm destroying saturday with a tin of repo extra cut does wonders for a caravan.