RUNAMUCK

You know you want to mate! You wouldn't be looking at running huge boost old an antique (lol) like the 202, but the instant torque delivery that a supercharger offers would be like adding another 4 cylinders. I know that If I could get an efi manifold off the shelf for my car it would have been injected as well as blown long long ago.

I didn't actually sit down and think about where said vaccuum signal might come from. (hence saying like a BOV) But yeah, I'd lean towards having things electrically operated too. Nice to have met you Simon, shame it was so dark, I couldn't get a proper look at your engine.

Here are pictures from the NZdatsun.com 2010 Akaroa cruise (Blatently copeid and pasted from NZdatsun.com)

My datto is road "legal" once more. If I remember, I may make an appearance too.

cough! Forced induction with efi. cough! EDIT, I know where you could get an eaton M62 off a nissan VG33. (Similar displacement to a 202, and you've already got an efi manifold............)

After having a huge chat to Dan last night as Simon's, (And laying awake half the night thinking about it) I see that the pic I reposted above Would result in compound charging before the turbo spooled. This alone wouldn't be a bad thing, but it would mean an actual boost drop at the point where the turbo took over from the blower. Dan is all over it with his idea of running seperate Airboxes for the turbo and supercharger. And running like a BOV (looped back into the airbox) to prevent the turbo from being deadheaded when the Valve in the turbo outlet is closed. This enabling the turbo to flow air and spool boost. (The restriction for it to boost aginst would be the oriface in the BOV. Given that It'll be supercharged, it'll be quite easy to trial and error what size orriface the BOV would need, and how much turboboost is needed so that the turbo kicks in hard(er) than the supercharger boost that will already be present. (without getting a blip, bog, or hesitiation when the changeover occours. The more I think about this, the better and better the posibilties seem to have the boost level (and the kick in) adjustable so that you could jump from 10psi to 20psi instantly............. I've learned a lot from this thread. Thanks guys.

Supershed?

You WILL post pics of the inside of your S/Charger! I want to see it in all it's naked glory!

I wouldn't run a system where the intake rebreathes the blowby. Its non performance enhancing, and as the inside if you IC gets coated in oily slime it reduces it's ability to conduct the heat away from the boost and back into the atmoshere. I run a custom made catch can, which has a baffle in the top to discourage stuff exiting via the breather cap. (Used to run a really unhealthy motor that was all blowby and condensation) But a word of caution, mount it as far away from your heater cowl as possible. Nothing worse than when your engine starts to breath hard, (Like when you're giving it death) and the sickly reek of bloyby comes in the cabin. Make you feel quite ill.

For the shutoff valve, just plumb a throttle body into the line which prevents the air compressed by the blower going back out the turbo charger. Then run a hobbs switch to cut out the blower clutch/actuate (like with a subaru leone central locking solenoid) the thottle body open once the turbo has spooled up. Then the boost from the turbo is flowing freely past the supercharger, which just lies dormant . Just like this but using a mechanical valve rather than a flapper valve. (And having the blower before the intercooler as I mentioned a few posts back) That'll give you nil lag (even with the sweet sweet four port head) and sledhammer like acceleration in the mid range to top end.

Sorry Dan, I must have had brain fade. If you have the turbo and blower you mentioned above, Id use the blower to spool the turbo and then have it cut out. reason being once your nice big turbo is spooled the blower clutch disengaged and the power being generated at the crank isn't being wasted by turning a pump that you don't need. Have you ever seen John Van beeks old supercharged CA18DET (Minus T) 1200 coupe? That went pretty hard on "I think" 9psi. (Matt who owns it now has sqeezed a 13.7et out of it) So running your two pumps in a non (true) compound charged fashion could give you 9-10psi from idle, and your big dirty turbo kicking in far sooner than it outherwise would have. Then when you're doing a max speed run you wont be wasting horsepower turning a blower that is doing nothing.

Word!

Perhaps what separates your dirty old chrysler hemi from a motor like say an A12, or a 3K is the physical size of the parts. And perhaps the age too. I've been party to reassembling engines without double checking everything. (On account of cost) But a motor like a hemi is more inclined to fail if it's tolerances aren't right. they bang out way more torque, and the moving internal parts are much heavier. they are a Fucking bainging engine that can take a fuckload of punishment, but For my money I could never afford to spend coin on a fix that "might" work.

Roots Blowers aren't all that noisy on their own. Most of the filthy whine that people asociate with blowers is the dirty gilmer drives that V8s tend to use. The reason why (as already said) a true compound charging set up would be a fail is because the S/C14 is so limited. I run one on my 1500cc datsun driven @1:1, producing 10psi of boost. Given that a built as fuck CA18DET is going to scream to easily 9000rpm, and that it will take more overdrive to reach say 14 (Or even the same 10 as I'm running)psi, the blower will be running so hard that it'll be doing more harm than good. Mine punches hard in the low and mid range, but loses some of it's sledgehammer like vigor when winding out in the upper rev ranges. Think too that given the lack of VE that an S/C14 runs, the overdrive required will not be a lineal increase. The whole logic behind having both to me is the brutal antilag that could be harnessed. Dave could run a stupidly big turbo like a T88, and still have it spooling before the blower runs out of effeciency. Speaking from my personal experience, the toyota blowers taper off dramatically with rpms, not just higher boost levels. If you're really that hung up on scavenging, just open up the LSA buy 1/2 a degree or so.

if you're going to bin it, you can give it to me lol. unfortunately, unless you have at least a bit of the right gear, and some experience with engine assembly, no-one can really "tell" you how to rebuild your engine. A real good workshop manual is a good start. freshening up a motor can cost from $300-$300000000000000000000000000000000000000000000.

12 second torana! Congrats mate! I've got a lot of catching up to do now!

I love it dude! My old man has one of these but it's way too original to make it as cool as yours will be. I owned one of these when I was in High school. But 318+ 17 years old = car on it's roof. If you haven't been to their website yet, check out 440source.com. they sell a pair of bolt on and go cnc machined alloy heads for under a grand US. (Plus our dollar is going off atm too) They flow something like 230cfm out of the box too. Although I did read that you need to throw away the valve locks and keepers, and put some brand name ones on. With a good pair of heads and a sweet cam and manifold, even an ex motorhome 440 will kick arse hardies!

Choice!

BEWARE of skimming your 265 head too far. IF you remove too much, it'll fuck up your valve geomerty with the hydraulic lifters. No offence, but you sound a little bit out of your depth judging by you questions/comments regarding the matter. There is the right way to (re)build and engine and 10,000+ wrong ways. the internal combustion engine is a marvelous invention, but it uses very fine tolerances. (measured in thousanths of an inch) There are many variables, and it only take the tolerances to be out just a wee bit in one area, and the whole thing can fall to shit. I'm not trying to sound preachy, I'd just hate to see you spend coin on your donk and wind up worse off than you are now. Each engine has it's own individual tricks and pitfalls. For good advise on hemis, check out the mopar market.com forums, or hemi6pack.com forums. The guys there have lots of know about them. As Graham said, the bearings are more important than the rings. Used hemi's are bad for camshaft endfloat which cam fuck up the mesh between the oil pump gear and the camshaft. Lose your oil pressure at revs, and your engine is TOAST. I've also found that the crank pins are prone to ovality after years of hard work. (I'm picking your engine hasn't had an easy life yeah?) To check this you really need a pair of micrometers. vernier calipers (Even digital ones) just aren't accurate enough. You can measure your bearing tolerances with plastiguage, but that wont show up any ovality in the journals. Plus that would require buying new bearings 1st, which may them be useless if your crank needs to be reground. (A regrind will set you back at least $300) Plus I'd borrow money and bet your timing chain and gears will be cream crackerd too. (I've never pulled down a hemi where they weren't) As for using the 265 head, what carburation are you running? I say this because with the bigger valves of the 265 head, you might loose a wee bit of velocity in the intake. and unless you're running a big cam and upgraded carburation, (along with the larger combustion chambers) you might actually lose power. You keep blowing head gaskets, have you had the head you're running now skimmed? (dumb question, but if it's a bit warped no headgasket will keep things sealed)

I'd roll like this, but with the blower before the IC. Blowers make stupid heat, so the IC would be needed. PLus you could overdirve the supercharger to fuck and by the time it was just about to burst into flames the stupidly oversized turbo would have spooled and FUCKING BANG! the blower cuts out, and the car becomes invisible behind a mamoth smokescreen of burnt rubber. Also with a clever top mount manifold for the turbo, the blower could be mounted down low on the other side of the engine. (There is FUCK ALL room on the intake side of a CA18det FWIW)

Rebump! This epic event is this sunday boes, and bo-ettes. grab your datto's or old school nissans and come and enjoy a sweet day with a great bunch of like minded people!

I don't have the mad skills to make a drawing show up in my post, But I'd rock the turbo oulet to the intoercooler, with the supercharger running in paralelle off that line before the I/C. Then fit a TB between where the supercharger comes in and out of that line. then once the turbo has spooled the blower cuts out, and the TB opens which means equal pressure each side of the supercharger.

Did I draw you a picture that day you came over Dave? I'm gagging to build such a set up myself. I scored an RB30 and a 25DE head for just that purpose. (Because everyone knows I need more projects. )

Blocked radiator?