RUNAMUCK

Innovate are wideband yes.

If the Kaikoura thing is out for you mate, you could always go as far waiou and then head home after the pub stop. (They sell awesome icecreams at the diary there too!) A short option is just meet At the mount pleasant yacht club car park on main rd, shoot over the hill, and round the bays to the wheatsheaf. Then thru gebbies pass and hook right back up the the sign of the kiwi. The hill climb bit is a really sweet drive, as long as you don't get stuck behind a slow coach. Anybody got any other ideas???

I've PM'd the Hogan, and told him to bust out a desicion on where we're going to go. (And I've removed what I posted here originally, on account of being so drunk when I posted it.)

Narrow band just has way way lower resolution. The nrarrow band sensors have one wire, the wideband ones have 5. (Although one mite be for the heater wire to burn any crap off the sensor)

Those kits with the LEDs are just a narrowband thing.

I dunno about Viva's, but my datsun 1200 had the tank vent run out of the top of the filler neck, and then down through the boot floor, through a chassis rail and after a wee dogleg out to atmosphere.

You're choice of cam will dictate your dynamic compression ratio. This will have the biggest influence on how much static compression you can run.

I'll pass that on to the peeps at the club when I see them next. If any of you fullas want to have a go at drag racing, but your car aint road legal, PM me and I'll give you the contact number of the local tech inspector. For a fee of about $50 (I think) you get a tech inspection, (which is like a basic wof check, without worrying about all the gay shit like loud exhaust, and other HiPo modifications that WOF men get all out of shape about) then you can send away and get a log book which lets you race without WOF of rego for 12 months. If you don't get a log book in time you have to get one on the day which costs a little bit more. Tech inspection is fantastic if you don't drive your car often enough to keep it road legal all your round. Or if you don't have cert for a +T, or +S/C etc.

I can't say either way, but I do know that you'll be able to tweak your LSA being as to how your motor is twin cam. This will denote your overlap, which is the critical thing I supose. As may have been said above, (or not) a supercharged motor can stand much more overlap than a turbo engine. Although I think with an angry turbo (and definately with a nitrous) cam, the LSA is a bit wider, and the exhuast event begins a bit sooner. (before BDC) This (with nitrous anyway) helps to utilise some of the thermal expansion to aid the evacuation of the spent charge. (since it's being added artificially on the intake side) This does cost some power, (The wider the LSA, the more power it costs) but where the power is being added it's a trade-off. I would assume that an earlier (BBDC) exhuast event would also bode well for a turbo engine, as it's going to help get the turbo spooling faster. Since more of the spent gasses are still expanding. Also on single cam engines, wider LSA's are ussually accompanied by smaller overlap durations/lift, so you don't have exhuast gas back feeding out the intake corrupting the vaccuum signal, and impeading the compressor wheel while the other gasses are trying to spool the other side of the turbo. I suppose ssuperchargers are more flexible in what cams they can run with. (Think about the millercycle engines) I did once run a can with 106* lsa on my datto with ther blower. It went like fuck too. (For a wee while) Dunno if what ive written is relevant/makes sence. (It's probably a load of horseshit anyway)

Also with a positive displacement blowers, any unburnt fuel that gets blown out the exhaust valve from overlap can actually help to cool the zhorst valves.

Skids! http://www.facebook.com/pages/Pegasus-B ... 2392950137

Maybe the flat peakers wont be able to afford gas to go that far? lol

My skid (White datsun) went untill my temp gauge went past 120*C I had hoped my tyres would pop, but I ran out of cooling before then.

THANKS for the pics mate! The only downside of racing is you seldom get to see any of the racing, and especially never get to see any of your own runs. That supercharged '69 Dodge charger is pure sex! They've gotta be the best looking muscle car that the US ever built. (Big call I know, but thats my feelings anyway)

Nah. thats another mate of mine. When you say your leaves have been flattened out, did they remove all the elipse from them? In my experience leaves that have no curve in them have real trouble putting power on the ground. They need the shape to "hold" the tyre on the ground. And with the power you'll have on tap, you're going to need all the traction you can get. If I ever get my leaves reset, I'd get the eyes reveresed for certain.

I didn't break any records tonight. Didn't break my car either! YAY! Wasn't many takers for the burnouts. One skidline, one skidvia, and two datto 1200's! I just sat in one place nudging the redline untill my temp guage went past 120C. Should be some vids up soon. (most unimaginative skid ever)

I think the diaphram is dismantled, and then reassembled with the spring on the other side of the diaphram. So it runs Advanced under normal conditions, (May need to adjust base timing to suit) and then as the boost rises the pressure make the arm retard the timing. (I imagine the weight of the spring used would need to be a bit clever) It's wholley possible the factory rotoray ones had two diaprams back to back, so that it could both advance from vacuum, as well as retard from boost. (Although, don't quote me on that one) Another clever (But very costly) option would be to use something like an MSD 6AL BR module. These retard your timing electrictronically as the boost climbs.

I have no experience with chineese turbos, but I did see cockram nissan were selling them a while ago. (I assume they still are) So it must say something for them if a big dealer like tham will sell them, and stand behind them too. (Although they were unable to tell me if they were carbon sealed or not) Aside from that, I did read an article in some uassie car mag about cheap turbos. It reckoned ones with a 360* thrust what-cha-ma-call-it were worth giving a punt.

If people were keen to go back up to the go-kart track, it would be insanity not to head inland just past cheviot, and cut through Waiou. The road spits you out after the hundalees (sp?) about 200m away from the track. Plus the road has sweet fuck all traffic, and is a great mix of straights, hills, and twisty-turnys. I passengered that route last year, and spent the whole time wishing I was driving myself.

When quality rebuilds was in Christuchuch, I spoke to the (now former) owner Barry Emmes about modifing a standard vac advance Diaphram to become a boost retard diaphram. He sold the company to a mob who are now in Auckland, but they may be able to convert one for you. The beauty of boost retard is that when you're off boost, but still stoking along you get the benifit of better fuel economy than you would without the added advance.

Hey, Are you mates with Josh with the Z18et powered datsun 1600? I saw a KE20 very much like yours at his house aa while back.

Start by registering at www.nzdatsun.com. Best NZ based datsun site by far. For your fuel requirements, you're going to need a surge tank. You'll have to run a low pressure lift pump between the ruel tank and the surge tank. A cheap option is the ones found on carb'd subaru leones. (Identical to a facet) They're a bit hard to locate on the car though. (Found under a small steel plate, just in front of the right rear wheel) Then you'll need a high pressure EFI pump. The easiest and most commenly used one is the VL commodore one. They're popular becuase they aren't an intank pump, and they're common and cheap. The cunty bit is you'll need to run a fuel return line back to the tank. You'll need to use steel for this. The tube isn't that costly, but it's a real cunt to work with. What I've done with one of my datsuns is run a nice 3/8 steel line for supply, and used the old 1/4 line for the return. You're also going to need to have a return hose nipple fitted into your fuel tank. As for the brakes, there are many many options available to you. A very easy upgrade is to fit S13 (non sr20det powered ones) brakes to your existing struts. But then you're still left with spindley stub axles, and weak springs. you can fit heavier springs though. Also are we talking about a B210 or a B310? The S13 swap aplies to the 110/210. The 310 is a different kettle of fish again.

Another way you could set up your vac advance, (Which nis how I plan to try mine when I ditch my locked dizzy, and go to my new old stock one) is run the feed to the diaphram from after the turbo. Then static time your engine with the hose connected. (At idle) I don't know about a turbo engine, But I have loads of vaccuum at idle on my supercharged engine. So It stands to reason the Vac mechanism will provide decent advance. Then once the turbo begins to spool, this "Initial" advance will fall way. Hopefully leaving the total advance at a safe number of degrees. I'm not a huge fan of locked dizzy's, but thats what I've been forced to run myself thus far.

DId they have a boost retard style diaphram on the dizzy?