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Posts posted by two_days_late
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By popular demand....
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Cool as, it's about 210mm from the centre of the UJ to the front of the loop based on where I would like to mount it. The Escort floorpan has a corrogated section that wouldn't be great for mounting, but a nice flat section that is the perfect width a little further back. Sounds like this will be fine. Cheers, Matt
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Cool that's where I landed as well, though in the drawing it looks like it could be taken as the back or front of the loop...
Cheers
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Hey guys,
Does anyone know if the 250mm from the center of the UJ pivot to the driveshaft loop requirement is based of the front, bac, or center of the loop? i.e. does the 250mm requirement include the 50mm width of the loop itself?
Cheers
Matt -
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Thought I'd chuck up a post for these roof racks we just cleaned up for a mates mini (mainly because it's a really cool old mini). We wanted to be able to get 2 full size mountain bikes on the roof but keep it looking old school. We set out to find something to use as a starting point and thankfully @Steelies has just the thing.
Racks when I picked them up
Just needed a good tickle up with the wire-wheel, a couple coats of satin black rust kill paint, and all new allen head bolt for max style points.
Then found online these alloy transport/storage mounts that act as a fake hub so you can just whip the front wheel off the bike, and bolt the fork straight to it using the bike axle.
Plus some nice titanium bolts to hold them on
And she's all ready to roll
Not the most complicated project, but means the old beast can keep doing it's daily duties!
Cheers
Matt- 14
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Awesome cheers man
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Cool thanks, I think I'll bolt it all up and see if it moves when I swing off it, then if it's all good I'll run with it. Will be easy enough to replace the inside plates with larger and welded ones down the track if it's no good come cert time.
Cheers
Matt -
10 hours ago, cletus said:
hmm. bit of an odd design.
my opinion is it will probably flex and move , if the plates go thru one layer of floor panel steel. I may be wrong though, its the sort of situation where you would probably have to fit it and try it.
if the crossmember and lower plates were one piece (ie a longer crossmember) and gusseted correctly it would be more likely to be ok.
I have done certs on a few different cars, including escorts, where they have done a similar system, but using a plate on top of the floor that extends up the side of the tunnel a bit as well, stitch welded to the top side of the floor
Hey Cletus, thanks for the reply. This setup was in the car originally when I got it, and did work fine. Getting some larger top plates and welding in shouldn't be much of a problem though. Do you think the current setup would pass? Or is it not quite that black and white without actually testing it?
Cheers,
Matt -
Hey guys, just looking for some advice on whether my gearbox cross-member setup for the Esky will pass cert.
The mount itself is from Palmside and is 3mm steel. The pieces to mount the gearbox mount to the floor are 5mm steel (with the 2 smaller pieces going inside the car on the floor and the 2 larger pieces going underneath).
My main area of concern is whether the pieces that go inside the car are large enough (is there a minimum size?), and whether the taper style bolts will be ok? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated, hoping I can just stick with whats here.
Cheers,
Matt -
Welcome (back) to the club! Also in Welly and have a shed full of sporty bits if ya need anything.
Cheers
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We managed to get the motor back in last night without too much trouble. The engine sits in the right position now with the new engine mounts (so the exhaust and carbs fit nicely). Think I have a slightly bent cross-member, and still need to finish sorting the gearbox cross-member and cut the gearbox hole. At least it's in though and can worry about all that next year!
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After a long harsh winter of no progress it's finally back on the ground. New coilovers, steering rack, RS hubs, track arms, RS tie rod ends, sway-bar bushes all fitted in the weekend. Should be able to get it really nice and low once the engines in and the coil-overs are wound down... looks like the tyres are gonna rub though so will likely need to swap them. The alloy RS hubs stick out about an inch further than the standard ones.
This means the next step is getting the motor back in... which might even happen before Christmas. Finally more steps forward than back!
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Put one in a mates GTT Caldina about 4 years ago to replace the leaking factory one and it hasn't had any problems. From memory one of the fittings was different to the factory one so needed to spend another $50 or so on that. Can't remember the detail on exactly what it was though... may have been for the trans-cooler line that runs through it.
Cheers
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Or you can use a complete Sierra clutch with the Xflow Flywheel, but you will need to get the flywheel re-doweled to match the Sierra clutch. Cost me about $50 at a local machine shop to get mine done. You'll be finding different answers to the same questions as there are a number of equally good ways to do it
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The whole arm was bent (which is possibly why the holes were offset), they've been sent back now anyway, the guy was sweet as about it.
Cheers
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Hmm good point, I don't have stock ones unfortunately (the Escort ones are just part of the strut), none of the photos of them for sale online are offset though. Think I'll go back to the guy.
Cheers
Matt
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Hey guys,
I just got these new steering arms from the UK (Capri arms to go on my Capri struts in the Escort). On one of the arms the hole on both ends is offset and the arm itself is slightly bent. I'm not sure if they are new or have just been refurbed, but do these look like acceptable tolerances or should I be sending them back?
Cheers
Matt
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Cheers @64vauxhall for the pointers! GC
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Bit more progress this week. Starting with getting the old trans tunnel brace drilled out (it must have had a different gearbox in it at some stage and someone had mangled the old one), then the new one welded in and sealed (Cheers Joe). Also Por15'd the cross-member and sway-bar so it's ready for the motor to go back in now. Pile of goodies also turned up from the UK.
Cheers
Matt
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Primo cheers guys
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Ahoy,
I have some rear panel cards for the Escort that I'd like to repair. The vinyl itself is in very good nick, and matches the front door cards so I really want to avoid getting them recovered if possible. The vinyl has come away from the bottom of the armrest bit. Are there any OS upholsterers that would be interested in giving it a nudge?
Failing that I'm thinking of drilling some small holes in the back of the card (or pulling out the ashtray), and filling in the cavity with JB Weld or windscreen glue or something, then clamping it with a bit of wood/polystyrene to match the shape. My main concern is that as the surfaces will still have the old glue in there it may just come away again.
Second option would be to take the vinyl off completely and clean the whole card up and re-glue. Pretty sure I'll never get it to look right again though.
Any ideas?
Cheers
Matt
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Mate is selling this one
http://www.trademe.co.nz/1179306835
Is a good honest car, and would come down a bit on that price.
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I just brought a brand new single piece out of the UK for mine, got mine from Burton but they're pretty cheap on ebay now. Could prob get postage even cheaper if you use youshop as well.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Escort-Mk1-MK2-Rs2000-Mexico-Single-Piece-Prop-English-/152101261382
Just a thought if you're gonna fork out for a new hanger bearing etc. anyways.
Cheers
Matt
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Haha like away mate. Yea the underseal was a hard slog, but it did come off much easier than I was expecting once I got the heatgun and scraper on to it though. Just hard work laying on the floor for that long. Would be a breeze on a rotisary.
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Vintage styled radios
in General Car Chat
Posted · Edited by two_days_late
Added more
For the Escort I'm going to make one out of the factory head unit and some bits from AliExpress. I'm going to gut the factory head unit then basically plug a bluetooth reciever into a gain knob that will go out to an external amp. The factory volume knob fits perfectly on the shaft of the aftermarket one which is lucky.
Factory head unit:
Then from AliExpress I've brought these bits:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Vehemo-Car-Automobile-Home-Audio-Amplifier-Bass-RCA-Gain-Level-Remote-Volume-Knob-LC-1/32623549981.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wireless-Bluetooth-Receiver-Audio-Music-Receiver-Adapter-RCA-For-Car-Speaker/32807209796.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3Pcs-Gold-plated-Brass-RCA-Inline-Coupler-Male-Plug-A-V-Adapter-M-M-Connector-RCA/32773990444.html
Then this just RCAs out into one of these Rockford amps:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/R150X2-ROCKFORD-FOSGATE-PRIME-150-WATT-2-CH-AMP/222879896029?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
It does give pretty limited connectivity but it's realistically all I'll use. Can't see why it won't work but will report back.
I also considered getting something like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Marine-Amplifier-500-Watts-4-Channel-Class-A-B-Marine-Waterproof-Wirelee-Bluetooth-Music-Amplifier-Boat/32656983870.html
And just mounting the remote part under the dash on the right of the steering wheel.
Cheers,
Matt