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deankdx

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Everything posted by deankdx

  1. 14 May 2018 number 45... i'll put this here for later, took Me ages to find a pic of it. My cortina carby accelerator pump squirts very little fuel out,and squirts some back into the bowl(float chamber *17) .. it's because of the Ball number 45 below. probably has a bit of dirt under it the size of a grain of salt ? it's PLUGGED, not really accessible, but may be able to be back flushed from inside the bowl.. this photo of the pump jet circuit should at least remind me to sus it out next time i have the lid off the carby blowing compressed air in there may fix pdf to read oneday...shows how the 38 38 weber works which is almost identical except it has 2 idle screws and both barrels open at same time(and it's bigger) the 34ADM probably is similar in a lot of ways also http://www.theguestroom.net/manuals/38-38.pdf
  2. 14 May 2018 no choke cold weather idle...helped me narrow down a squeak in the back..thought it was the spare wheel,(tucked rags behind it) fuel tank cover(put a rubber mat under it) back seat( tried it folded down also) in the tail gate somewhere..
  3. 14 May 2018 because i like spares, and bargains.... bought another engine. basically the guy bought a car with this engine and wanted to boost it TO THE MOON! (the 2 litre has bigger bore, so less meat for gasket and they can split bores)( so he's building a nuts 1800, basically a 2 litre crank with smaller bore) only reco'd 4yrs ago, not much work(no idea on kms though) 2litre, flycut 20thou over pistons, reground crank, etc(basically what i was going to be doing to the short block i have here for $1500, this was $350 with the big exhaust(massive for NA. 2.5" with 3" tailpipe) ideal for turbo, surprised he didn't keep it.( i sold this later, too big for my goals) missing sump and head, but i have those here spare, also missing dissy, i may get one to make it run on the stand later otherwise.. spares.. if you have them, you don't need them pretty much if you want to learn how to tie knots in rope, just get yourself some headphones or extension cords
  4. 9 May 2018 ts a rodeo(G200Z) 2.0 litre, basically bored and stroked 1600, same basic design.(DIRECT BOLT IN, Looks same even) i haven't had the head off, so not sure if it's bored oversize? i haven't measured the heads yet to see if they are shaved, it only had 135psi compression, so could well be stock the head is a small port small valve casting, (there is a big port one) i doubt it has bigger valves fitted, because the ports look stock. the intake is a stock carby one, that wasn't even opened up match the adapter plate for the cortina carby(weber 32/36) *(until i opened it up) extractors, 2.25" into 2" muffler and hotdog(guessing the muffler is straight through, because it's LOUD. points replacement electronic dissy conversion as seen here https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-Gemini-TX-TC-TD-TE-TF-TG-Electronic-Ignition-Kit-for-Nippon-Denso/163027988383?hash=item25f539af9f:g:RHoAAOxycERRlJP2 nothing special. i've got a 1600 head here(higher compression if bolted on) with at least cleaned up ports, but also standard valves. there is a 1600 big port head also with bigger valves that would be the pick of the bunch the g200z big port head has a bigger inlet valve only apparently.. whether the stock intake is sufficent and current carby to take advantage of the better heads? not sure, but he was all about the twin webers upgrade.. i know the 2.6 rodeo engine can make 85kw at the wheels stock with aftermarket computer(because a guy i bought parts off had his tuned before fitting a turbo for more than double that) that engine is not a direct bolt in like the 2 litre is.
  5. 9 May 2018 DYNO DAY well, was damn cold this morning.. no choke.. pain in the ass, might be worse after tuning because it was rich at idle. i learned a LOT today again, i'll try go through it all with you.. gemini fuel, 98. (oil changed the day before due to running way too rich) when i arrived, it was put on the rollers and a GOOD GOING OVER(to make sure nothing would catch fire, fall off, etc.. blow up even) first run on the dyno, idling was rich and too fast, even when warm(i set it, it had been the best i'd heard it idle) it soon leaned out on the secondary .. carb off to fix an issue i spotted (secondary throttle stop screw) had the valve lash adjusted by him(simple 15min job on the gemini) 12thou on inlet and exhaust is his preference.(hot setting) some were tighter and 2 were very loose. (crow suggests 8thou on the inlet, so does the gregorys manual,12thou for exhaust) checking spark was sufficient, he didn't like the weak spark, and went looking for ways to improve it. ended up hammering the rotor button brass tip to make it closer to the poles inside the dizzy cap. he wanted better spark to widen the plug gap-(which he didn't do.. suggested getting a GT40R coil) with the carby off, the secondary throttle stop was checked, maybe set a smidge less, it was close enough, but the primary butterfly was not centered PERFECTLY in the throat, holding it from going perfectly back to stop, idle jets were swapped left to right because it was idling rich, and the primary was bigger than the secondary(sedondary idle jet is used so you don't get a flat spot as the secondary opens up before it goes to main jet... needle and seat was sus, and was swapped for a second hand one, float level reset because he believed it to be too low. the jets were already soldered and drilled.. they were measured with a set of jet measuring tools, 140 each ish he ran a 144 drill through the primary to be sure with the knowledge that the idle jet being smaller will even it out. the secondary was opened up from 140 to 149(thats 1.49mm) remember there was a home made jet thing, he didn't think it needed to be there "restricting this port" so that went in the bin. the secondary venturi was a loose fit, so that was hammered a bit to make it a tight seal to function correctly.. carby refitted, idle re adjusted, base timing was bumped up from 14(he bumped it up from 12 i had bumped it up from 10ish earlier) to now about 19deg, off we go idle, perfect, mixtures good on primary, transition to secondary now fine he revved it to 5500 for 70rwkw which isn't bad considering i've seen a carby 4.1 XF make 75kw before so.. jobs done. the carby has an issue with the accelerator pump valve, it's one way action isn't working as it should and sends some fuel back into the bowl.. works good enough for now. no choke.. knew that, should be able to live with it ? maybe.. rest of the carby is worn, but working fine. My air cleaner mod he thinks is fine. (stock housing to fit the weber) says even the tiny inlet on it isn't a restriction as V8 holden ones weren't much bigger if at all.(tuning was done with air cleaner housing removed, for access to things) in this tuning, he did go through all the hoses for pollution, check even the fuel cap one way valve was working. how the charcoal canister equiv works on a gemini and countless other things. (he talks way way too much) basically i paid for tuition on extra time.. but i think it's worth it. so when is the next calder session? could be Friday.. i still need to sort out things.. plus it's likely to rain that day.. maybe next month.. looks better with the correct (albeit bodged) grille
  6. 7 May 2018 well, refitted the thermo fan controller today, more protected than it originally was.. in the factory "relay box" i need to run an IGN 12V wire into the engine bay for the fan relay, otherwise it may flatten the battery as it's currently wired direct. it's idling with the cortina carby the best it ever has(lost the cammy note. DO'H) (hopefully with the dyno tune it comes back)about to go for a test drive before it gets dark.. might ONLY go round the block if it's not right enough to drive woo! drives again. definitely not right, but definitely drivable.. funnily enough it dumps a black smoke cloud on acceleration now where it didn't before(wonder if i mixed up the jets, i did write them down.. may have turned the carby around and confused myself which was the primary.. anyway, carby tuner should be able to sort it out. did more than a lap of the block, did some 80kmh cruising locally, possibly float level is too high as it runs a bit crap on U turns. going to be interesting to see how it performs ..on the dyno and more importantly on the track(because it's not a dyno queen)
  7. 5 May 2018 well, today was thermo fan day.. (like groundhog day, position fan, line up mounting, remove, weld, refit, position, mark, remove, weld, and repeat.. ) did also fit 4 brand new spark plugs, which work better than fouled new ones from float level too high(wonder if backfire can bend float arms?) this i am hoping will also work for the alloy radiator, or it could be a wind generator if i keep the old fan. made from some small angle iron i found on hard rubbish.. also trial fitted the bodged original grille again.. think i'll run it for a while.. looks more "correct' and after seeing Frieburger(Roadkill) recommend the "tissue test" and confirming it works on BGDAVs daily(had one of the fans going the wrong direction even though by hand it felt right)this fan is a 12" davies craig one with reversible blade for push or pull setup.. the wires get hot and burn your fingers if not connected properly.. be warned.(don't bother asking how i know this..)
  8. 2 May 2018 took this pic to show how to make the gemini PCV work.. pretty much, small vac line to intake from rocker cover.. and either vented or plumbed to air filter in a different spot.this helps keep the oil clean from fuel contamination(apparently holden did this from pre HD to after and it doubled the oil change interval..it also shows the prior attempt at opening up the intake throat.. sort of.. and the finished porting (burr tool on the cordless drill) also took the dizzy apart while still in the engine(could have removed it.. didn't want to..) lubed the mechanical advance, it was fine, but pays to check.. it doesn't move as much as falcon ones i'm more familiar with.. the plate that the points used to mount to and gets moved by the vac advance wasn't really smooth in operation. i washed that in petrol , crc'd it, oiled it and in the end packed it with grease like a wheel bearing before it was smooth.. seems to work well now(seemed to work prior) so, crossed a few things off the list. also cut some more allthread for the 32/36 carby so it's mounted securely(one was stripped prior) next time i'll fire it up again, swap spark plugs back to the "new" possibly fouled. buy new ones if it runs crap.. oil and filter change, check fuel flow rate fit thermo fan with stock radiator(going to attempt to try test how much power the stock fan saps if i can bolt it on last 10mins or so of dyno time(or pay $20 to find out if he lets me?) probably other things i've forgotten.. but i've got plenty to do still
  9. 30 April 2018 well.. LIKE READING? it's worth the read if you have a carby maybe... thought i might have updated how the other carby went...or didn't.. anyway, wanting it dyno tuned regardless, i took the 32/36 carby with Me to Nigel(65 yr old carby expert/dyno tuner close to retiring) to check its wear and choose between the falcon or escort carby.. Nigel, who i was warned talks the leg off an iron pot, then talks the other legs off also.. but in saying that, i learned a LOT.. and that has put My trust in him to tune it. he found an issue wth it as soon as i gave him a look(to check for shaft wear, stock gem carbies are fucked) the throttle stop was bent, went past full throttle, therefore full throttle was like 90% he said someone had deliberately done it.. noob tuner? He chose the 32/36 as best because driving economically it will be better on fuel and should have good throttle response down low(the 34ADM had plenty anyway still) and said both flat out would be similar in power but the falcon one would use more fuel regardless.. and then went on to say.. if you weren't concerned about the additional fuel use, fit twin webers either down draft or side draughts and be amazed by them... ONLY COSTS $1500 more... (i replied.. if i was to build another engine i'd keep that in mind.) So, I booked the gemini in for dyno tuning at His carby specialist shop. will let you know how that goes and costs in a week or so (he said if the carby needs rebuild..buy a new one, not much dearer and will be cheaper to tune.. so will find out on the day) he did also say i must check the following prior to going there *change oil, as if it's got fuel in it, it will effect the gas analyser(by having no pcv connected, the oil, even though fresh but due to running rich as fuck recently could contain fuel, which will find its way out through exhaust into the gas analyzer causing wrong tuning..) *fix pcv hoses so it works properly and eliminates fuel in oil.. (see above), he explained how the gemini one worked without pcv, so simple.. every car should have it.. *make sure dizzy advance and vac advance works * put newish spark plugs in or NEW NGKs *check fuel flow of pump/filter (600ml per 30sec, can do this by idling with bowl full of fuel .... due to elec pump)(i tested it as heaps, but didn't get accurate measurement over set time)
  10. 16 April 2018 jets finally turned up today... 60 idle, now 47 210 secondary now 140.. seems pretty close. ordered a new accelerator diaphragm because i bodged this one to fit the cortina carby, it seems to be fine, but not sure for how long with slotted holes test drive appears at min, no worse than the 32/36 after it stuffed up.. its got worn out symptoms, not shutting fully back to the throttle stop.. not sure if it's just due to a different position, the fact it was on gas or being 35yrs old or all of the above.
  11. 6 April 2018 just went and fired it up and played with the mixture screw slightly .. it may be better with the other jetting but it does work well, it made it around the block, but i parked it back up as it was backfiring and not feeling very reliable as is. i hooked up the choke to the gemini wiring, checked it .... full 13.8Volts, pretty sure the falcon one is 7Volts off the alternator.. so, might need to rethink this or add another resistor also found the wire for the gemini fuel cut solenoid and used that for the falcon carby.. interestingly it gets power when cranking, but only has power otherwise if the engine is running, part of the safety fuel cut in a crash i assume. (was interesting to test this with a multi meter) swapped the coil with an old original one(wrecker one) also swapped the plugs over with old ones that came out, runs the same. compression test all even with 130psi just relocated one of the body earth wires so i can fit a battery in with opposite posts also now .. (why don't they make them this way?) if it doesn't make a big difference when i get the new jets i'll remove the carby and pull it right down. while it's off i'll try the spare stock carby i have here also. see what that goes like? won't need to do much other than remove the adapter plate swap the studs over. so pretty simple..should at least confirm the issue is carby related. plug looks lean to Me.. but i don't really have any clue about tuning with plugs. (did backfire like when the secondary wasn't opening on the original carby with the 1600..not sure what that meant either to be honest? assume lean?)
  12. 6 April 2018 got the rest of the carby conversion done, haven't pulled it apart to replace the rest of the gaskets/o rings. i did remove the idle mixture screw and changed the o ring on that and check my home made screw driver fits...(ford parts again) tried a few air cleaner options, photo of the flipped throttle cable holder bought a couple of jets, 47 idle jet instead of the 60, and 150 to replace the 210 in the secondary main.. apparently should be close $20 incl post through a facebook guy on the gemini page. the 32/36 mounting is very similar to the falcon 34ADM so i trial fitted the air cleaner i modded
  13. 5 April 2018 spent some time modifying a gemini throttle lever for carby(cut in half and flipped backwards,because the ford carby pulls from the opposite side. forgot to take a photo, i'll consider taking one later when i make a return spring mount) in hindsight.. if i had a falcon throttle cable bracket, it may actually fit(if i re make the studs again,longer) spot the ford part ( XE wagon bonnet hinge)
  14. 5 April 2018 ha.. who knew diaphragms would be able to leak fuel excessively? asked on gemini facebook page who'd done the carby swap and if jets needed changing, someone suggesting the idle and secondary jets to be changed, so i'll give them a go(cheap to do) and see how it goes, i reckon i could probably drive it if i had to as is.. almost idles and i haven't touched the mixture screw yet
  15. 5 April 2018 decided today i'll give this falcon carby a trial fit up.. i had to buy some all thread as the studs weren't long enough for the XE carby. cut to length, trial fit, open up the mounting holes in the carby slightly. decide which way to mount the adapter plate and orient carby.. decided the front will stay at the front for plumbing and throttle cable setup would be easier..primary is closer to the head, which wasn't the case with the other 2 carbys(and also not the case with the falcon) i think i'll try it and see, seems responsive even though it's running like a bucket of shit currently. found a fuel clamp hose leak at the filter that might have been causing the fuel smell i had wondered about. next thing i am going to do is pull the carby apart and change all the gaskets/diaphrams that came with the kit i got with it. (i used the accelerator pump one in the cortina carby though, seems to be ok anyway?) also will swap the needle and seat, it passed the blow through test when i had the carby top off but if i have one i'll fit it. i will also make up a tiny flat screw driver so i can attempt to adjust mixture (now the mixture screw is between the carby and head,bit tight for space) after that, i will retest and then i'll go about making the brackets for accelerator and decide if i do another stock air filter adaption or just use the chrome one i have. wish it sounded as lumpy as this all the time lol..
  16. 1 April 2018 decided i did want a better seat back to match the base, the hybrid seat of reco base and old back was still not great. so, same process, hook the hog rings back where they come from(resisted the urge to use zip ties, incase they don't last 30yrs ?) slide cover over the foam again, only a few stitches came undone, which the hog rings at the base will hold together fine.. the holes on the side can stay for now(from the left side mounted adjuster originally) i am considering gluing a patch over it. but also considering forgetting about it also. the seat is now COMFY. i'd dare say, feels like a new one would? i had a motor trimmer do this same trick to my XF ghia and XE ghia driver seats back in the day also.. picked up a good left one from wreckers and paid to have the trim swapped.. something well worth doing while it's possible to get spare seats. this whole repair was done with $25 of seats and my time..(plus fuel to pick them up)
  17. 29 March 2018 had an opportunity to buy a pair of matching front seats for $25 . when i got this car, the drivers seat was pretty rough, especially the seat back. .. i kept it, just for this possibility (almost bought one left seat in reasonably good for $60 from a wrecker a couple weeks back, but figured it was still pretty crap and might tear when removing the trim. the left seat of this pair is VERY good, as is my wagon one. so i took the worst drivers side base, and fitted the new left seat base trim and the reasonable back that came in the $25 pair, because it was simple.. i started doing the left to right seat trim swap on the back part until both were stripped.. the crappy one tore along the seam, the good one i removed without damage, so i am hopeful of making that fit the drivers side frame maybe tomorrow. i used Peter Anderson's tips to remove the trims with relative confidence(in this how to clean seats for $1 video) the left seat of the $25 pair next to the seat back from the wagon side by side recovered base with better seat back and the TF seat.. annoyed Me but was comfy and passed rwc
  18. 20 March 2018 6x9 found on hard rubbish.. one had perished foam seal, the other blown. ended up using one from the rear of My van. upside down because the wiring connections had better clearance DONE! definitely has more bass.. powered off the deck, one 4" in the tailgate is just there for looks now.
  19. 20 March 2018 BASS project happened today. haven't decided how to deal with the raw MDF yet, maybe when carpet the floor i may consider carpeting these panels.. i can get "correct" trim colour paint if i want to paint them.. or i have heard there is a vinyl in correct colour available also. the car had a home made thinner panel with it when i got it, it was used as a sacrificial template. (i accidentally ruined it earlier testing a holesaw anyway) note the hole shape below, not quite enough for the back of a 6x9 even after i used 2 MDF sheets with felt cloth glued on for noise suppression. BFHammer was used.
  20. 10 March 2018 these wheels are Renault Megan 14" with 175/65/14 hankook tyres from the wreckers well, decided FUCK IT! seems fine, test drive time! did a few local streets with various revs, seemed ok, so filled up the fuel tank and did 100km ish on the freeways at 100 ish in various gears and thrashed the onramps etc. no issues.. filled up again after 100 fwy hms,, 11 litres per 100km,(can't be lean? ) no idea how a loose alternator could vibrate so bad, perhaps it was causing something to cut out from rocking around? (can't see it though) these wheels make the car awesome compared to the 13s, same width at 175, but lower profile for a similar rolling diameter. handles better, more stable at 100kmh, grip better(not compared to semi slicks though) i am going to put a heater tap in this car, as it seems the seals might not be working in the heater box anymore(foam turned to dust i guess) was getting hot in there today. seeing it seems fine, i will progress to next issues/goals. take to dyno tuner if i suspect it will be justified improvement revisit calder park for comparison runs if i suspect it's better.
  21. 7 March 2018 decided to remove the semi slicks and put the wheels i'll probably keep on it(they gripped and handled well when it was 4x4 height) cracked all the nuts loose with the breaker bar and was going to remove the nuts with the cordless drill.. couldn't find the adapter.. made one out of a bolt, did the trick well enough.
  22. 7 March 2018 so what's broken in the wagon? what was that knocking noise? the alternator or bracket or both on this engine are different slightly to the 1600 i took out, l kept the 1600 engine's alternator and my spare 2litre has a bracket that fits the 1600 alternator perfect.. however i just used 2 washers on this one and it fits perfect still.. no noise when bolted up properly.. knock knock, who's there? not a mounting bolt... looked inside the clutch fork hole first, nothing to see. i cant really rev it while under the car to check if something moves or not.. may just test drive it and see if i can repeat the symptom? stupid car.. will be happy if it's not broken though.. revved it up after fitting alt belt.. seems fine MISSING BOLT was all it was..
  23. 3 March 2018 What broke? naturally i'm not keen to rev it yet.. the Alternator moves when revved, i am going to go back out in a sec and see if bolts missing from under it, wondering if that is the noise in the front? i will undo the fan belt possibly if it rules out the noise.. it's not going to fix the vibration that's for sure.
  24. 2 March 2018 two runs almost identical times, that was with the air cleaner flipped on first run, and on normally for the other run. so.. why did i stop after 2 runs.. it wasn't going to get any quicker in My opinion.. i did the rookie mistake and staged on the back wheels because i didn't know where the start line was on the first run... had to back up again and re stage.. it HOOKED HARD and bogged down even on take off, surprising how much grip the Warmed up semi slicks had.. reaction time was a bit Meh, i was totally flustered at the line, it was a bit overwhelming worrying about.. if it stalls or conks out again or doing something else wrong..(also got told off for not having My helmet on 3 cars before i got to the end of the staging lane(still 4 cars to race at this point).. where's the sign, put helmet on HERE... or website for newbies) so pretty much ran it as hard as i consider it goes, no tacho to know what it's doing, but where it feels right. the second run i concentrated on cutting a better light, even though they said via Facebook PM that the time still will be recorded even on a red light.. i launched it with the intention of not breaking something from hooking up too hard(did a lesser burnout even) 2nd run felt same as first and the time reflected this.. but as i pulled up to the window to get my time card, i could hear a "new noise" and figured i'd go to the pits to sus it out. i pulled up in the pits, drove passed Scotty Under turbo taxi and wandered over once i ruled out racing after the NEW NOISE was worse with revs, and also had a vibration.. not good? loose flywheel bolts, clutch bolts? (i did loctite them) broken valve spring? no idea.. sounded possibly from timing area but vibration was more from gearbox area... while there i did check it was getting full throttle,as i remember it seemed to go better before... hmm Manifold porting...what else did i change, ignition timing.. what it does now power wise is cruises at 80kmh with what seems like 1mm of accelerator pedal pressed.. i was looking forward to doing an economy run on the way home.. but once moving, didn't want to stop at any cost. (had about 10sets of lights to deal with though) i drove it home 60kms because NO FUCKS GIVEN.. plus i hate waiting for tow trucks.. the vibration started just above 80kmh(about 2000rpm at a guess) so that was the max speed all the way home.. made it, even through the tunnel, didn't seem much affected with more throttle as long as the revs were low.. did seem to run on 4cyls all the way also.. sus it out soon.. rocker cover off first, because that's the easiest. then decide if gearbox comes off after that.. their (Calder Park) website and signage could be greatly improved.. it's like "do what everyone else is doing and you'll be fine" definitely not what i'd call up to date with procedures manuals.. infact, its exactly the same as i remember 20yrs ago Anyway.. if you got through that Well done! you are now qualified to fill out the forms at Calder park raceway.. (had a lot of crap to read.. yeah, legal crap)
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