deankdx

19 hours ago, Hogibear said:

Correct, iv wanted one for years but she was a good price.

As for the diff iv learnt the mk3 zodiac or some mk3 zephyr crown wheel and pinion fit the transit square diffs and will give me a 3.5 ratio which should be better than the 5.6 that I believe I have. Failing that its just an axle on leaf springs so I’ll measure flange to flange and find a whole rear axle to fit. 

These vans have the diff under the leaf springs so I’ll have to cut off the spring perches and flip them for the axle to go above to lower it more, at this point a whole axle out of something better might be the better option. 
 

anyway maybe it’s time to start a build thread

I've read the AU falcon live axle is wide enough to clear the springs (make new spring perches to suit) it's still a narrower diff you you get the benefit of being able to use a deep dish wheel on the back if that doesn't bother you. (many ratios available for this diff in factory form from about 3.08, 3.27, 3.45 but you could get many more ratios if needed. 

CRS used to make a falcon front brake conversion (falcon discs, kingswood calipers) but not sure if they still do (Australia) and Hoppers stoppers may do something since? (Melbourne Australia ) 

8 hours ago, Hogibear said:

It’s been a while since iv posted on here. I used to have a different user name but can’t get into that profile. 
anyway I have bought a mk1 transit and know nothing about them, iv heard there may be a couple people hiding on here that know a bit more. 
I feel I’m going to have a lot of questions as I get deeper into it. 
first question is diff rations, it has been pinto swapped but had a factory diff. At 100kph sounds like the poor engine is nearly valve bouncing. What are the common diff swaps for these?

heaps of information on https://fordtransit.org/forum/

from memory the diff ratio is 5.6:1

On 20/01/2024 at 17:37, TF cor said:

Hi Guys I've been reading 1963 AP5 about the 34ADm Weber's and very informative. I've been making a manifold for my 4.1 crossflow for triple 34ADm Weber's bit of a challenge but done. Recently installed on to my Cortina 1981 TF and after reading some of the informative info trying to understand the operation of the carb read the Yellow Ford technical Bulletin and still having trouble after isolating the vacuum switch for idle jet found one has a ruptured diaphragm so plugged it up and the vacuum connection for the nudger diaphragm as you have done and shown in the pic's and still running extremely rich. Has a healthy cam and when I disconnected the 12vdc solenoid above the adaptor plate indicated in your picture, seams to settled down to normal not choking with carbon. Can some one tell me what the solenoid's function is, I'm thinking it could be some kind of valve for idle function.  Look forward to any feed back would be much appreciated. Wish every one a great new year. Peter Sav. 

                   

that's a fuel cut solenoid, stops run on when ignition is turned off. 

I saw this photo many years ago, i think it was mentioned it was 3 manifolds cut up and bolted on separately 

10 hours ago, Roman said:

And this is all going in a tube framed EP80 time attack car for a European hillclimb or autocross or something series. 
It still looks like cams are the bottleneck though, but it will be interesting to see how it goes with the higher CR and presumably some race gas.

please link us with any youtube story about this thing when it gets going,  so we can continue our story of 9000+ rpm 1NZs

58 minutes ago, Motu said:

I converted my $200 pushbike a few months ago, with a 500W Bafang and 36v 20 A/H battery. Loving it

the mid mount is definitely something i'd prefer, where it can sense the load applied to the cranks (no need for the throttle setup?) 

7 hours ago, cubastreet said:

I thought I'd see him when he got back to town on Sunday @deankdx but he was delayed. I'll ask next time.

Also, have a look at the endless sphere website, a lot of people on there use power tool batteries.

cool thanks, i've notice you can use the search feature without joining, so will scroll down this list of search results soon (will also help me convert a 36v mower and whipper snipper i picked up without batteries for similar reason) 
link

On 30/08/2023 at 18:01, cubastreet said:

I'm housesitting there this weekend I'll try and get the lowdown.

People seem to use them in ebikes fine, just wired in series. I think older makita batteries didn't have a full bms they just told the tool to switch off via the 3rd pin. Problem is if you run the battery too low the bms bricks and you can't recharge it again.

Apparently the latest batteries have over discharge protection built in.

 

did you manage to get any further info? 

I'm still a way off getting to this project but if i know what i'm looking for i might be able to pick up some used bargains (seems a reasonable amount of used ebikes with dead batteries about fairly cheap *battery replacement obsolete/super expensive)

2 hours ago, cubastreet said:

I'm housesitting there this weekend I'll try and get the lowdown.

People seem to use them in ebikes fine, just wired in series. I think older makita batteries didn't have a full bms they just told the tool to switch off via the 3rd pin. Problem is if you run the battery too low the bms bricks and you can't recharge it again.

Apparently the latest batteries have over discharge protection built in.

 

yeah i think i have one battery without the ✭ symbol  which isn't the smart one, you can jump start low batteries, but it's risky if there's a dead cell. (lots of videos on this, but i pulled a few apart with low volts that had cooked cells, they'd be dangerous because to get the voltage up you are kind of overcharging the remaining ones if so)

the newer ones have a battery level button also, so i guess you could check it every 10min or so to see how it's tracking..

definitely interested in any info you can dig up 
Thanks already for restoring faith in the idea

23 minutes ago, cubastreet said:

My mate did exactly that with two makita batteries. He says it works well.

if you could ask how he's got it wired, i'd very much appreciate it. 

doomsayers were saying just putting them in series could/would damage the bcm board on them (not a fan of that)
be awesome if the low voltage cut out still worked, but again I'm not sure if that's possible without using the 3rd pin on the battery and some brains. 

I'm interested in converting one of My bikes to E bike, but also have it possibly swappable into the Mrs bike for the occasional ride with Me (me without electric power in this case)

so guessing that would mean doubling up on some parts permanently fitted to both bikes, but swapping the front wheel over to her bike on those days. (assuming there'd be $100 odd saving there)

what i'd like to know, is can i use My makita 6ah 18v batteries in a 36v application, and what would be needed (something i read in a google linked article said the drill batterie's BMS won't like being plugged in series for 36v )
there are 2x18v makita tools (i have a blower that takes 2 batteries, doesn't work with one removed)

i like this idea because a, i already have them, i could swap n go with another two 3ah ones if needed. used batteries are fairly reasonable at the moment. 

can you guys see any way this would be viable? or am I barking up the wrong tree. 

(other plan was to buy a used e bike with dead battery and try to fix the battery pack myself (I have repaired a couple of drill batteries by swapping dead cells from same battery type and soldering onto the nickle strips rather than spotwelding as seen in this video)
 

56 minutes ago, Roman said:

drop the gearbox on someone's doorstep
Wow yes 

did you guys(NZ) hear about the "gearboxing" that made the news in Oz ?
https://jalopnik.com/how-an-aussie-forum-war-ended-in-a-police-visit-5713816

i haven't heard it mentioned for 10yrs ish, still has merit. 

oil filter housing like this ?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/LS1-Oil-Filter-Adapter/1145906162?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101202994

how deep is the oil pan, is there any reason you can't do an in sump pan oil filter?(other than losing some volume and being a pain to change) 

makes oil changes with filter a bit more annoying but it might package well. or a recessed oil filter but would need modding the sump pan in same spot

just some oddball idea that popped in My head. 

they look pretty good compared to the 1UZ ones from a 1989 crown 

8 hours ago, Adoom said:

I have a requirement to unload a 1000kg milling machine off a trailer onto my garage floor this Sunday.

But at the boom extension required for clearance, my engine crane is only rated to 500kg.

you may find it will need more weight added at the back side or longer legs,for tipping reasons.  definitely keep it in mind before committing to the lift. 

18 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

The old boy got given a full kit of older dewalt gear. The batteries were chooched. (NiCad lyfe) he found an adapter on Aliexpress to plug his dewalt Li batter's into them. They seem to got quite well. The skill saw is mint.

@RUNAMUCK what model number is the skill saw? (i'm torn between buying one or adapting my hitachi as i have 3 brands here now)

I've got old dewalt (made in Mexico) grinder, drill, massive 1/2 drive rattle gun(will never part with)  the grinder weighs nearly 1kg more than the modern brushed makita grinder i have. i just bought (not received yet) an adapter to go to the Makita battery.  (goes by "MAK1820" if anyone is doing similar) 

I've also bought some makita "DIY power wheels etc adapters" because i've got old Hitachi post type(made in Japan) with dead batteries . I'm either going to screw straight to the tool itself or to a battery case. 
there's no "protection" circuit in this case, but the battery BMS has some smarts in it to shut off before too flat/hot etc. 

On 25/03/2023 at 06:54, Yowzer said:

FJ40 pulled from the Waikato River by the Hamilton gardens.

$5k ono

just needed to wash it?

13 hours ago, 1963 AP5 said:

I believe the secondary venturi is actually smaller on a 32/36.

I'm not sure about the venturi sizes, only the butterflies are pretty much as the carb identifies 34ADM both 34mm and 32/36 one is 32mm and the other 36mm(which My tuner said along the lines of much a muchness, basically will flow the same, but the primary being smaller will suit the smaller engine due to better air speed. *(I've been told the bigger 2 litre Nikki carb on the rodeo 2 litre would go about the same on Mine, but better on fuel than the weber due to vac secondary, but they were all worn out 30yrs ago and in the bin) 
I never got a reply from Weber Performance regarding the jet holder either.

1 hour ago, 1963 AP5 said:

Thanks for your kind words.

The second link was for a special large jet holder that fits in place of the original 2 stage low speed jet solenoid assembly. They used to be available off the shelf but maybe there isn't enough demand anymore to keep making/selling them. It is possible to make a suitable jet holder if you measure up carefully and have acess to a lathe.

thanks for the info, i thought it must be the jet holder as it was the only thing i didn't see in the pics of the first link. 

i didn't know this was a switched jet (temp switch) as the later ones don't have it, or if they do it's not via that vacuum switch (I had XE XFs for 20yrs  until about 10yrs ago) 

I am now understanding why the tuner preferred the 32/36,  had heard of them fitted to the falcons even and probably go well, the bigger 38/38 is also a direct fit but both barrels open together. 

due to my feeling that the 34ADM (falcon carb) was more responsive on my gemini, i'm still tempted to fit one if i do any changes that would need rejetting. so this info is extremely helpful (probably so i can TEACH the tuner also) 

weber performance have been really good at replying to emails, so i'll ask about that jet holder and see if it's still available and if so reply back with info.

lastly, do you have a review on fuel economy/drivability on your engine? on the 250ci falcon XE XF i used to be able to get 10L per 100km with them at 2300rpm for 100khm long drives. 

25 minutes ago, Roman said:

This car is the gift that keeps on giving (Go to 11:20 if it doesnt automatically)

i replied in the video comments : google This 9,000-RPM, Prius-Engined Toyota Echo Sounds Seriously Good ..you won't be disappointed.

On 22/07/2020 at 07:39, 1963 AP5 said:

The vacuum port for the power valve is in an odd place on these carbs and some off the shelf adaptor plates will blank it off causing the engine to run on the power valve all the time and run very rich. The port is actually under the base plate and is not open to either of the carb barrels.

further down
You need to drill a vacuum port for the power valve in the adaptor plate and this port needs to also be drilled all the way through the stock manifold. If this port is omitted, vacuum will not be supplied to the power valve or the accelerator pump boost diaphragm and the carb simply wont work properly.

BUGGER ME! 

i had just been reading your awesome thread (second link in first post no longer works, any idea what it was for?) 

anyway, i had tried(failed) one of these carbys on my gemini 2litre (rodeo engine) briefly and it was running rich to the point of fouling the plugs and sounding like a PP rotary  
i'll bet it had the vacuum port blocked due to the adaptor plate for the 32/36

My first thoughts were this carby was HEAPS more responsive than the 32/36 i ended up with (dyno tuners choice, he said they'd flow similar, and the smaller primary on the 32/36 would better suit the 2 litre..)

i had started trying to remove the power valve(interference fit) and gave up.. bought another carby but was persuaded to go to the 32/36 by the tuner. (lucky i didn't try fit the second 34ADM as it would have done the same. 

Brilliant thread @1963 AP5 I'm glad you took the time to document it and explain it so well. (i'm expecting that carb to be fine albeit with plier marks all over the power valve boss   ) 

12 hours ago, Muncie said:

Somewhere between a chamber muffler and a glass pack.

Thanks for the info, first time i'd seen them. definitely keeping them now (one or both might sound good on a 2 litre gemini engine)

this is what i found (link so i don't spam your page with my photo)

On 15/01/2023 at 18:10, Muncie said:

Chopped out the Cat and replaced it with a Calsonic 2-1 muffler off a R35 GTR was a small amount of "3D printing" to hook it all up but it fits the space well and pleasantly doesn't sound shit and does rev a lot happier.

can you explain what these are? i found some the other day on hard waste thought i found cats (but a garden hose went straight through and out the other side i thought they'd been smashed out/failed)

look very cat like i guess. 

came across this gem today, got an interview with Street Machine at Drag Challenge. 

been watching the subscriber count climb from 600 this morning to 700 odd already. 

AWESOME channel to subscribe to i think, if you are interested in drag racing? or the mighty Honda K24 engine? this channel is awesome. part one of a build into a 1983 celica and is doing drag challenge currently running Mid 8 second 1/4mile unofficially (smoke broke the beam on one run)