87creepin

Whilst poking round the fuel tank area for o2 thief countermeasures I noticed the left rear floor was pretty scabby I think moisture has got in after the seam sealer failing. somehow. it’s not a bad window seal or anything as my carpets have never been wet. I know my car isn’t OS as most OS (lol!) But it’s old car things. The oldest car I’ve owned so far, a second gen Prelude, didn’t even have seam sealer on a lot of panels that folded over others. I’ll remove the affected brackets, tidy up; and apply seam sealer once spot welded back in. but I will have to get a spot weld drill bit. And scrape the wrecked under seal off which will be fun. Just to make sure there’s no rust underneath. Can anyone recommend a good similar replacement product? tidy bracket And the poos the seats are the epitome of povo spec. But they’ll go back in for now…

I thought it’d be a good idea to install some Makita One Ways, as my subframe is about 150mm off the ground, but all I achieved was a droop of 10mm. unfortunately I found my shocks and top hats were pretty bad shocks were very easily compressed By leaning on them. Rears didn’t even bounce back up. bolted them back in and got this I’d love some coilovers but realistically I need to be road legal so will go with lowering springs and new shocks + top hats.

DRL overcomplication complete! I disconnected stuff and this front harness from the front radiator support. Here’s my wires prior to covering in conduit, which was then cable tied to the factory harness and then reinstalled It then snakes under the drivers side fender, to under the dash where the relay is I have these knockoff AMP super seal connectors, the plastic is a bit cheap but the pins click in securely and it seems to be weatherproof. (I’ll have to get some legit ones to compare) Unfortunately I only have 2 pin connectors on hand and these have three wires. Rather than overcomplicate with 2x 2 pin connectors, the red ‘drl’ wire is connected with a sheathed spade connector. Shouldn’t be too much drama as it’ll live behind/in the bumper out of the rain. and here’s my 5 pin micro relay diagram (use a small one, big ones take up too much room) it took a while to work this one out; I knew that 85 and 86, when receiving 12v would switch 87a over to 87. But I forgot what I knew about circuits and got hung up on polarity. and also the wiring diagram I was Using wasn’t too helpful. basically, when ignition is ON and when car is running, the DRLs will be on. 87a - 30 and it finds ground through the ground connection I’ve made. but when the headlights are switched on, they find ground through that circuit and the relay pulls 87a to 87. The DRL circuit becomes an open circuit, thus no longer illuminating, and being legal. and extra relay spam that may be helpful to those installing alarms, my outback was a cunt, I couldn’t work out how to get my remote door unlock and lock to work. courtesy of the 12volt Basically I had one wire to a switch in drivers door doing both unlock and lock and some unaccesium at the other end. I now have a working remote for lock and unlock. I’ll spend a bit more time trying to get the lights to flash with on and off as the 12v have a guide on how to do that. wiring in 91 - 97 Toyota > wiring in 98-03 Subaru

I saw a lifted diesel ML on 31s for sale on the tard and thought it was one of yours!

Does anyone know which PaP or Zebra in Auckland has the best selection of tyres?

get one mount it low vl spec or slant forward perhaps. It looks so nice black. Iirc cutting holes is fine, but as for what is/isn’t allowed, Cletus will confirm…

Yet. It is rumoured this will be introduced in the near future…

A totally random Q, Would a 2J fit in a Carina/Corona of this generation without too much fettling? I can’t find any info on the inter webs. I see a Carina rolling body for sale, Altezza Gita/Lexus G300/Aristos have 2Js, and it’s got Me daydreaming.

Here’s the daytime running lights I’ll be fitting: same as what I had before, but this time I’ll spray some 2k clear on them to keep them neat. I like them because I want that mouth breather who’s still half asleep scrolling through tiktok to see me at a roundabout. the major challenge I had was that they have three wires. Red : DRL; Yellow : Indicator, Black : Ground. I previously had given up trying to make the indicators work, and just settled for this method of wiring, courtesy of my good mate and former president of the MR2 nz owners club, Charlie: however for those that like a little more pizzazz, after much head scratching and Coke Zero, I’ve worked it out - a simple 5 pin relay: the electromagnet is controlled by the headlight switch. The relay can be either normally open or closed; for the 87 open pin, I’ve connected a 12v positive that’s only hot from when ignition is on, the red wire from the DRL is spliced into that. The ground is then hooked to the 30 pin, which has the black wire from the DRL spliced into that. The 87a closed pin is left vacant. I’ll have a proper diagram up soon when the headlights are flicked on, the relay is activated and the DRLs no longer work. the indicators just get power from an indicator on their side, and use the same ground as above. shine bright like a diamond With the indicator on and drls on: I was a little frustrated when i saw this, but upon closer inspection, all indicator leds flash, it’s just some led wizardry that it flashes the white leds on and off With headlights on: should be 100% road legal, as wof virms state maximum 2 front pairs of indicators, and the corner ones are more side than front so should be legit did a bit of test fitting just to see where every wire would go, and how the harness might look: shouldn’t be too hard, just a whole lot of planning, fitting etc, I’ll make the indicator harness longer than needed. Removing the bumper should not pull on the wires too much.

I’m taking a brief break from paint while I save/do other jobs. The time away from prep and paint has made me question my decision of painting this KA4 dark blue. I’ve decided on a colour scheme, but if anyone has any awesome suggestions, fire away. I had a whole lot of wiring mess in my kick panel. reverse/dash cam, radar detector, random other wires not doing anything, a few years ago I did a pretty hasty job, not as bad as a twist and tape, but could be better. went from this to this: mind the multicoloured heat shrink, aliex was having a deal. I’ll know for next time to buy only red and black kits. anywho plugged it all in and a big puff of smoke from my ground. after a bit of head scratching and replacing a fuse I realised where it was shorting out. I hardwired the dash cam in and ripped the plastic housing off the plug. After a bit of rectifying and tape it now works sweet. had most of it taped up and tucked away a bit better, I use narva pvc tape, but just seen they do a tape cloth but $4 per roll vs $16.

Working with Chinese electronic components suck, partly due to the bad instructions, and I’m really still a beginner when it comes to electronic stuff. So I’ll just get something that’ll work off the shelf.

Cheers, This crusty trailer isn’t far from me, but reckon I might give it a miss. Not because it has hardly any lights, but the suspension looks suss. There’s others a few hours away that have leaf springs and for not much more.

If I buy a trailer that’s had its license plates lost, do I need to re-register it? What’s the bureaucracy costs involved with that? I’ll get it up to wof standards, shouldn’t be too much drama and is it cheep to insure a trailer? I’ve read the Nzta pages but you know they’re not very helpful.

How much was the power steering hose?

speed science do a Grams Performance 4.9 kit for $446, I was interested as it seems quality enough without being too expensive.