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Posts
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Everything posted by Vk304
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Focus shifted to making engine bay look tidy, had couple hours free from kids and work, made a fitting for the crank ventilation valve as it was a bit of a messy look before, painted top covers, nissan white 2k and black, dabbed raised lettering with a sponge worked well and fits with black white theme , almost want to get a pplate with 'panda' on it lol
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All welded up and not fouling anything, stainless ends and painted the rest black its now 2.5 inch twin all the way
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VK304's 1988 Nissan Vanette w/ added SR20DET
Vk304 replied to Willdat?'s topic in Project Discussion
Nah awesome panelbeater did it for $50 so its passed wof now, he just welded it back up haha, yea i should habe made it look factory ... but i doubt it is 'structural damage', cheers for lsd option ive got welded 4.3 head and 4.1 open atm swapping them all the time sux but ive got it down to half hour exercise now haha -
Got hit with the dreaded 'panel beaters report required' for a hole i made to provide airflow... seems ecessive.., but i dont make the rules... not allowed to fix it myself And some shocks, so got some ultima ones from auz because cheaper, about 180 to the door...
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My muffler cracked all around and pretty much fell off after wiggling it. so have started a twin pipe out the back, replacing the rudimentary 2.5 inch twin to 3 inch that i had, will now be twin 2.5 inch all the way, its tight but i think itll work
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Quick carpet job, just want to glue the wheel well bits together some other time, have limited time on this due to kids, mrs working, but i have installed a 4.1 ratio open diff from a 720 ute, so will go for another warrant now soon
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Picked a lathe up with it, broke down at guys place, van wouldnt start, blocked his driveway for a while, had to phone a friend to jump start my battery after a loose terminal fried the wiring which i got to work again, well i made it back, lathe was a good score though
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https://youtube.com/shorts/GDzSZxZ_5k8?feature=share Couple more runs, 7 in total, just doesnt seems to go any faster with the mods i did, i suspect its gonna need drag slicks and ecu/turbo upgrade to push it faster But im not gonna go there this time being its already aerodynamically challenged..., so this may be the last drags, still only on 11psi boost, but any more and it'll risk potentially damaging motor without some kind of ecu or wide band to keep A/F ratios in check soo yea Good fun though and no sketchyness at all really, quite predictable and the drivetrain is solid
- 178 replies
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Lakewood slapper bars came in the mailfeaturing my toes, pants and little hands welded spacer on to clear shock/spring mount bracket and push it closer to spring eye, and trimmed exess plate off corners probably wont like speed bumps now but they are really only on there for drags, and are only clamped on springs so can remove pretty easily ... ready for another drag day hopefully with improved launch and overall speed
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So i got rid of the simple and laggy bleed valve in favour of a new turbosmart boost tee, and i can say it made a huge difference ,this valve has a spring and ball type system that builds pressure keeping the gate shut untill it lets go and provides a lot more boost over the rev range, and comes in a lot harder, where as a simple bleed valve lets the waste gate open too early And did a dump run , weighed in at 1280kg with me in it, ive since removed the spare wheel/housing and heavy towbar, and without me in it should be around a 1100 1120kg kerb weight now... Planning to do another drag day soon Then a deep clean and install some lightweight carpet in the back, install open diff head aand .... probably sell it after that to start a new project...
- 178 replies
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Now trying to get tacho going but not having much luck, any wiring gurus who know how to wire a ca20 coil tach to coil on plug ecu output ? Tried a pull up resistor from positive to tach signal into tach, diddnt work ...
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Some key differences with the 2 diffs, the original one is out of the 87 sgl vanette, its 3.88 ratio H190, i welded it to do drags, so thinking ill get another to be a spare for road use ..... i brought one off trademe This new one is out of a 92 nissan largo diesel, is H190, same third member and bolts, 4.3 gears, thats when i realised its non compatible with my old one... l wanted to keep the 4.3 gears for drags etc, so that meant swapping them onto the old welded centre, but they are a different offset aand carrier housing width so one complete centre couldnt fit in the other because 3mm wider on the bearing faces if that makes sense... So housing/centres are not interchangeable, that sux, i had the idea then to 'unweld' the old one and swap spider gears/re-weld into the 4.3 centre.... so i did that and well the spiders, pin are all bigger in the new diff f#ck, so i welded the new one together and now ive got a 4.3 welded diff, and some 3.88 spare parts lol Ill try find another open diff as i need the 3.88 gears for road driving. But all this means is i essentially upgraded to a stronger and better ratio nugget for drags... for 150$ ... not too bad
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Another diff, this ones h190 4.3 ratio (35/8) out of a 92 diesel largo van, should go good with that ratio, old one is 3.88 and is welded, so ill swap ring and pinion to the welded one and keep 3.88 for wofs ...
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https://youtube.com/shorts/RDo5gtXzAkA?feature=share My best run for the day
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Super good day at drags, was my 1st day drag racing and first os event, and was a bit out of my depth at first ,.. but yea good to see people and talk to some, van had a lot of wheel hop but managed to limit that with soft launches at the end and got to 14.7. Thanks to everyone at the track and making it a some what easy experience for a 1st timer lol Next time maybe slightly more than 10 psi boost and a little rear suspension work... Thanks again
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Proof the motor is out of a s15specr silvia (along with the reciept from japspares) not stolen and another plate to go with the original vin and obsolete lpg cert, not sure this is legal but at least i cant lose the plate now lol
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Stripped many layers of crap paint to baremetal and painted bits to make the final enginebay paint a bit easier when i eventually pull the engine, looks better beforeafter stripped to bare metal, rust converted, etch primed and base/clear, looks good up close now
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