willyd

Hi Guys thanks for the response! Taistorm - So would you definitely need to remove the mag stud nuts (ie the wheel from the drum) to do the wheel bearing? If this is the case they really haven't done anything for sure other than replace a gasket in one of the exhaust couplings and adjust the hand brake cable. they did no welding on the exhaust, the hole is still there. Yowzer - Yeah i really did expect some sort break down inspection to happen. I should been more suspicious that they would quote for all this work with actually knowing what needs replacing, also they were sure they would have it done on a Saturday. I don't think they ever intended to replace any parts no matter what they found.. if they ever intended to look. On a side note i read that around this era drums brakes were auto adjusting when you brake in reverse?

Hi Guys, I have just taken my 1978 Hiace camper van to in for a WOF. I wont name and shame just yet as i want to give them a chance to re-mediate their work first. But i would much appreciate some advice on the matter. I know a little about basic mechanics but not a lot. The WOF check itself was okay - i failed for the following things Leaks from exhaust - True the joints are in bad shape. Play in one wheel bearing - i did not check to confirm this brake were pulling to one side. True, i had noticed this (drums all around) Hand break needed adjusting. probably They quoted $450 for the work. I thought this price to be okay if they actually fixed the issues so i went ahead with it. They had the van for day and when i came to pick it up they said all went well. Claimed they had balanced all four breaks. taken the breaks a part and cleaned them and adjusted and this was all that would was required - no new parts. I trialed the breaks and i could not see any improvement on the pulling to one side. I probed some more and actually realised i had forgotten to give them the key for the mags. They admitted they had not taken the wheels off and just sprayed brake cleaner through "a hole"? they then changed their tune and said that they actually they didn't need to take the wheel from the drum to get to the brake and they did it this way for the front and back. is this even possible? Especially on the back wouldn't you need to pull the axle out of the diff or something? They then said that it doesn't matter if it still pulls as it passed there break test machine. Well their test machine was just an acceleration box sensor. I had already good stopping values on the WOF report. The only way to test brake balance is a roller machine right? They also said they had fixed one the exhaust joints and checked all the rest for leaks. Well the other joint, the badly rusted one was still obviously leaking and a hole in the rear tube section... I haven't given them any payment yet. they still have the van and are going to take it a roller tester on monday to try and prove the brakes are fixed. They also said they would fix the exhaust properly. Given just how much they have blatantly lied to me so far i'm pretty concerned. I am worried they will fake the brake report or something. Any advice welcome... I'm keen to offer some money for only the work they have actually done and get the hell out of there. How much should i pay to have hand brake adjusted, one wheel bearing re-packed with grease, one gasket replace on exhaust joint and have some crap sprayed at my brakes. They charge $70/h Cheers, Will