kiwisurf
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Posts
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Everything posted by kiwisurf
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I have the same steering wheel but not the Springalex badge. Did it come with it? If not where did you get it?
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Talk to Jai from Electronic ignitions and retro car parts (facebook). NZ supplier of Accuspark. He will sort you out.
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I modified my dizzy to sort a similar issue but to do it again I would either buy a pre modified one from Burton or a tuneable 1 from 123ignition.com. The Bluetooth mapable ones look awesome. Mine makes 115hp at the wheels with similar spec to yours but Kent 234 cam and bike carb setup.
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That power figure is good for a downdraft webber....and you can always look at sidedrafts in the future to really get it cranking.
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Trojan Wheel Studs. I use Auto Trail in Hamilton. Show them what you want and they will have a stud to suit. You may have to drill the hub to fit a larger flange size but the Trojan book will tell you the size drill bit to use. I just did my MK2 escort this way. And yes it can be a cert requirement if your not getting enough turns out of your wheel nuts. And this conversation could be totally taken the wrong way if read wrong!!!
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So another long time without updating. Got the motor in and tuned. Makes 115hp at the wheels and runs great. Broke a rocker shaft...Just put a spare one in for now and have not had a problem but may have to upgrade at some point. Did a grasskahna and a track "cruise" And just been using it on nice days as much as possible. I'll sort out some photos and show some of the more recent changes soon.
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If its been sitting you might just need to go and get them nice and warm. We used to get a lot of cars fail at the testing station (mostly rear drums) that we would just go for a drive and get the brakes hot and they would pass straight away. Of course you may have an issue but most likely a sticky slide.
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We used to replace 100's of the resistors on those Mazda's when I did my time. But generally they would only work on a single speed if at all when they were faulty. Have you tried mazda to see if they have them new still?
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For sure it will be the fuel pressure at fault. Try these guys as its where I got my carb setup: http://www.bikebusters.co.nz/
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Dream car...now you have made me mess my pants.
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Saw it at the Brit and Euro show....Its just as sweet in person.
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Are you sure its carb related? Have you sprayed some Engine start in the carb?
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As above 90oC is not that hot. Remember water boils at 100oC at sea level. Add the radiator cap to increase the pressure and the anti boil properties of coolant and the boiling point is going to be somewhere around 137oC.
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And then this happened. Engine started rattling at idle while I was working on tune. Found some metal on top of the piston. Pulled the head and found it had dropped a hardened valve seat. Damage was very minimal due to it happening at idle. The engine had always been a heavy breather since I bought it so decided to freshen it all up. Bore was worn and was already at .60thou so I had it sonic tested and got it taken out to .90 thou. Crank was ok so fitted new bearings. Reused the Kent 234 camshaft as that was all ok. Fitted a NOS dual row timing chain. Had my worked cylinder head overhauled with new guides and hardened seats. Plus he opened up the ports a bit more. Currently almost all back together and ready to put in. Engine came back at 1690cc and 10:7 to 1 compression. Should go much better.
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Another long time between updates. Have been driving and enjoying the car mostly. Put a set of Wilwood Dynalite calipers and vented rotor s that I picked up 2nd hand. Installed a driveshaft loop to be prepared for the eventual low volume.
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Can you build something else straight away please.....been my favorite build to follow on here and now its going to come to an end.
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Fuel pressure is critical. Easy way around it is to use the fuel pump of the matching bike. They are high flow, low pressure and pressure switch automatically.
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http://danstengineering.co.uk/ Have a read on that site mate. I'm running Keihen CVK's of a ZZR600 on my 1600 Escort. That's kind of the recommended bike size for that engine capacity. Guys running 2lt pintos generally use the bigger carbs off a 1000cc bike such as a R1. PM me if you want any more info. Mine runs way better than it did on the Weber downdraft originally. Is going to be Dyno tuned tomorrow so I should have a good idea oj just how good it is after that.
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Been a long time since my last post. Slowly chipping away at the car. PCV bypass and catch can fitted. New cooling system with big alloy radiator and electric fan and controller. Alloy rocker cover. Bike carb manifold finished and bike carbs fitted and running. Rev counter dash fitted. I'm currently playing round with the tune on the carbs as I want to get it as close as possible, then give the engine a freshen up before sending it for a dyno tune. I have a wideband AFR so I have been playing with jetting and mixtures. Its not bad and a big improvement on the dog of a down draft that was on it....idle is so smooth now.
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Been busy doing a type 9 5 speed upgrade for the last 2 weeks. Cut the gearboot ring off. Cut a hole for the new shifter position. Then added a patch to fill the old hole. I bought a gearbox x member from retro Ford in the UK as well as a short shifter but I've had to cut the x member a bit to clear the gearbox which I'm not happy about. The factory mounting hole s for the standard x member had to be removed as well.
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The 1300 also had a much lighter flywheel so that went on at the same time.
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The 1300 was not cutting it so I bought a 1600 711M engine off a guy in Timaru and had it shipped up. It had apparently been recently rebuilt and has a Kent 234 cam, double valve springs and head work and the rest is unknown. I did a leak down test and it was fine so decided not to pull the head. Dropped the sump and checked the bearings. There was some sign of bronzing on the Mains so replaced them. Bores looked good from underneath with good hone marks so put a gasket kit and water pump etc and left it at that. No better pics but its all black now and fitted and running. Once I had a good look at the 1300 that I pulled out I discovered it has had a lot of head work including ports that are about 10mm bigger than the ones on the 1600 head so its currently at a mates engine shop being checked over and the plan is to fit it when I'm ready to fit the bike carb manifold.
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Did a round headlight conversion. I forgot to take a pic when it had square eyes. A mate scored me a grille for $40 at a swap meet which I had plastic welded to repair 2 small cracks and then painted in Satin Black. Same mate who is also a auto sparkie got me some new 7 inch semi sealed round lights. He also relocated the battery to the boot and tided up the dash wiring for me. Got some light retainers from Palmside and modified the square buckets to take these. At the same time I removed the chrome and plastic bumpers and fitted up some front 1/4 bumpers and a fiberglass rear that got the satin black treatment also. I eventually plan to remove all the chrome work and do it in black.
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Discussion Thread.
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