scooters

@Lord Gruntfuttock that is a stubby holder holder.

the green 330 will hijack this thread pritty soon

yeah no worries. no rush

It's kind of weird how it all behaves large injectors on small Pulse width will have mostly no effect as a lot of the time they will be spraying on the back of shut valves. Only way to nail it down is to get a wide band get the idle stable... you can pull full in out out with the VE table to suite. however if you do it pre throttle you are just adding another phisical object for the fuel to get around and mess you up. I tried years ago to tune some independent throttle bodies on a 4age. Could not do it with VE.. Had to speed density it. I think because the throttle open up and the air flow was really exponential. Another story meh .

yea it's going to be interesting to see what turns up. (end of the week) a few years ago these were worthless/non desirable. But I think most of them went by the way of rot and now they are still non desirable.. but getting less and less as we go.

good grief.

before or after throttle plate?

firing injectors into a hot port set up helps vaporize the fuel without question. Firing A injector into a throttle plate is not ideal. Having said that....just make sure its sequential to get the best posible outcome. again you would never know the difference between batch and sequential injection at 4500 rpm its just the low end and idle quality is better. Remember a common missoma is that sequential injection is tied to valve timing and fire when the valve is ope or about to open. Lets say your injectors are at 85% duty way the fuck up in the load cells.. well a lot of that fuel will be sprayed while the valve is shut anyway. @fletch

Oh yea your screwd poor Datsun. Do you know where do the nice tripple side draft carbs for the l26 come from ?

@Carsnz123 how far along are you ? i just bought this.... well pending payment and shiping.. you know the usual. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1740702048.htm

fair call respect that.

Been thinking.. You can do it pre throttle. I still think you will tear you hair out trying to tune it. like this but without the fire risk .

@fletch Best bet is after that throttle blade bud. The fuel is just going to hit that blade at idle and cause you endless drama. although I can see what your trying to do (hide the injector) Most other set ups are after the throttle for good reason.

@fletch

it will still work.. But economy and idle/ cruise might not be as clean as you want. Id put them in the manifold behind the valve if at all possible. a lot of things at play other than throttle plate. injector spray pattern helps a lot with the low rpm stuff. Up top does not seam to make a difference even if your injectors look like water pistols. How far are the carbs from the head ? Less of a issue if it's a short runner.

OK. Small setback today. After a battle to get the rims on i'm still running dramas. At full lock only I'm getting slight inner rim scrapping. It's still hitting on the bottom ball joint nut even though the ball joint stud is now cut flush with the bottom of the nut. It really shows these rims were never meant to be for a 1302 dub. So after a bit of a look we have the rim scraping and the nut thats causing the drama. Off the top of my head there are a few different things I can do. 1. reduce the wheel lock with the steering stop bolts. 2. adjust the front wheel bearings. I have very slight play but I kind of don't mind them being a fraction on the loose side but. 3. I'm still thinking about this one..... spin the ball joint nut down about 3mm... To increase the clearance between rim and nut and give me back 2 threads of ball joint that I should have hanging out the bottom of the ball joint nut. Would take it from 11 mm to 8mm thickness. (M 12 metric fine 1.5 thread pitch) one last push to get these rims working... 90% there. The other thing is spacers or remove some material off the rims... Both are not so flash ideas.

Pritty much just go till you slowly get sleepy in the old dubs. still got my heater boxes... see if I make it to Hanmer.

Pritty cool day. Wheels now fit about 98%... After some issues with wheel weight placement. Had a wheel alignment hell of a lot better to drive with the toe set right. stoked. First part of the build done. Now that type 4 engine....

Good work!

this happend ball joint stud wacks the inside of the street fins. stud will be gone. It's ugly but I don't want to go to wheel spacers & LVV it's just a old dub

really need to walk up and see what all the rage is about .

I think we tightly wound rope around it from memory.

Its not easy being pink. We have old roof racks for days around these ways. From all the years of air cooled. Im sure the bike will sit on the roof in a few bits just fine. The tow bar is one made in germany and its slighly off to one side came on the vehicle. I did some reading and all around the world there are dubs with slightly off tow bars because the man at the factory that made thr jig was a dead set piss head. Hard case.

Cheers igor. I wish I could remember the name... It's a PPG acrylic or enamel.. Don't really remember.

cheers dude. There are 100 cars id rather have in my shed.