shizzl

Not many laptops etc are made with cd drives anymore. I went to insert the rx3ute build disc into my laptop... no drive...ugh Everything seems to be going the usb plug in route now I hate technology

Ill be creating its on build thread shortly as its quickly overtaking the hunter . Although that should be running over the xmas break.

Did a thing today.. Lost a stack of cash.. Got hold of Azhar and picked up a 12a RX3 nosecone set... so good, comes with the grille chrome, upper trim and eyebrows. Got back to the shop, looked at it..and went full send. It actually felt like i had done this before.. Haha.. Actually come together quicker than previous one. Upper is fully bolted on. Will bolt the lower to the upper and try my best to find a pair of rx3/808 guards to use the front 1/4 section for the flange. This will all be bolt on this time.

Whats the shipping times like from summit?

Like catching up with an old mate you havent seen in 20 years. I think its almost exactly 20 years to thr day that i sold RX3UTE.. Now i finally got the plates back in my hands, have a 3rd b1600, have a flying dorito burner... just need the nosecone and some balls to start the process. It all started in 2001 when i swapped an opel monza pos for a crusty un wofd b1600. I quickly got it down on the ground and chucked 15x8s on it with 45 profiles. Then i decided to primer it. For some reason i had an rx3 10a grille sitting in my shed.so i decided to cut the b1600 grille and slip the 10a grille into it. Was a fairly good fit tbh.. Looked good with the grille badge. I drove it like this for about a year. Until some knobjockey ripped it off on my lawn. Ripped out the gauges, steering wheel and wheels. This prompted me to do some work on it properly. So i pushed it into the little single car garage i had, and stripped it down and decided to put a 13b in it. Found a s4 13bt block and box. Got it in there and mounted, then found other bits that somehow fit to make it work..(s1 radiator and oil cooler, found lines to fit, found headers that fit).. it just worked. Then after some advice from Mark Julian at RES i had it fired up. I was stoked. Then i decided to do the bodywork, so i blew it apart, shipped the deck off to murphys panel in waiuku where they warped the hell out of the sides, and paneled up the tailgate with a rollpan etc. I deciddd i wanted a rx3 nosecone on it, so found one for $250 from a mate at pbms..gir home and lioked, measured, cobremplated, then cut..mocked up.. it will work!!! Then found another panel beater to finish the fitting..picked it up a week later and the whole thing was in primer and guide coat..he was a legend. So got it home and put it all back together, and had the plates on order. Sent it to RES to be tuned. Then Andrew Smith rang me and asked if i wanted to out it on the dyno at the nats...hell yeah i do. Its first maiden voyage on the road..no wof, cert or reg..no worries.. Once i got it back home that weekend i decided i wanted to paint it..it had to stick out, so i decided on lemon yellow with green pearl. It was retina burning bright. I got to the point that it was ready to cert, but for some reason i sold it for $13k instead.. I always regretted thag decision. Then after hearing it got crashed, i was devistated. But now i have my chance to get it back, and do it the way i want. Love it or hate it, it was one of the most unique builds back then. And im proud to have done that in a little shed with little to no tools or idea..i was dar from a mechanic back then.

Tbh ive never considered a ruptured oil line. Ive always run with elec gauges .. Had mechanical in the stockcar, but it came with a braided an line..was the allstar brand. Might go kill the wallet for some og autometer sportcomps

So cant run mechanical oil gauge? My ute used to have cowl mounted gauges..the ultimate throwback would be autometer gauges in chrome cups

CAUTION!!! This post contains automotive pornographic images, may not be suitable for workplace viewing. Discretion is advised. Picked up my custom radiator and oil cooler set up today. They even had a 16" fan that they mounted for me which hanges over the oil cooler, which would be ideal as the cooler is narrower than a standard rx cooler. Sat it down in place and it fits so well. The oil cooler brackets sit just off the chassis rails, rad cap neck clears the top of the slam panel. Top rad hose lines up perfectly. Lower should go well aswel. No heater allowance on this one. Oil cooler lines are going to be lush. The lower line (rear) goes directly between the engine mount and swaybar. The upper will only require 2 45deg fittings to be put onto a shorter line. Was $1300 but worth it imho. Also picked up a new ida linkage kit to move the throttle cab to the front.. Rear position would foul on the booster. Shes mint now. But i need to source an adjustable cable end that screws on.

Great feedback fellas... Any feedback on the saas stuff?

Thats the style im after. Ill give them a google

I have had many gauges to read various things over the years, mainly oil pres and water temp. I find most are fairly inaccurate or just super china quality. What gauges do you run, and do you rate its quality? Where did you source them? Im looking for something that doesnt look wanky with different light colours etc. Prefer a black/silver face and reliable.. 2" is fine.. not digital.

So had an opportunityi just could not pass up... Bought back my plates for my throwback build. This is the most important piece of the build. The rest can be recreated, but having its original identity is the cherry on top. The driveshaft goes off to beattys next week. Gearbox crossmember is done..used the original crossmember, and welded on new chassis tabs the same as factory, only 50mm further along the chassis. Have a custom radiator and oil cooler being made at the momentfor it too. Ill keep this buil in here seeing as yhe hinter has gone a bit dormant with a few wiring issues that are beyond me. This build is easier, dine it many times before

I’ll just leave this here… After toying with the injection idea I just couldn’t do it. picked up a pair of mikunis, slapped them on, hooked up the fuel line that was already there. found a wiring diagram for using the stock dizzy with a bim024 type module. found that the wiring I paid an auto sparky to do last year is cactus, so hotwired the module for now, pump isn’t running, great. got spark. Wouldn’t fire off tdc, so figured the module may have advanced it by up to 30degrees. Guesstimated that on the pulley. And pop goes the weasel. only ran it for this long. now can sort the wiring so shit works, finish a few other bits. order up a ae86 radiator. but holy shizzlnut, it’s way quieter lol

Carbs refitted for shitsngiggles .

No pics. but engine and box is back in the hole, new water pipe is spot on. got the headers mated up to the exhaust that was on the 12a. headers are 4-1 and collect into a 2.5” collector, then into a flexi, through 2 resonators and out to the dumpy. I don’t want the raspy tinny 4age twang that these can give with big pipes. also got the starter bolted up and wired in, so now the entire passengers side of the bay is finished off. only have the intake to fit up, modify a couple of wires once I figure out which terminals go where on the alternator. btw the 12a loom is a perfect fit to the 4age for hook ups. even got the oil pressure and temp senders fitted and wired without modding anything from the 12a. even put oil in it and spun it over by hand. still need to fill the gearbox and fit the shifter. progress is progress

Yay, finally received the final piece to the puzzle. heater bypass pipe, and it’s not rotten. now I can fit this up and get the motor back in the hole for the last time. still need to source a T50 clutch slave and pin. haven’t done much on this due to waiting on bits. got some tinkering done on the Ute though, engine mounts tacked in place, gearbox position sorted. Ready for the gearbox crossmember to be done and measure for the driveshaft. I’ll need to go back to a banging bolt for the rear oil cooler fitting due to space. So hopefully I can get a -10 an bango fitting for this. got a radiator and oil cooler to pick up for it, slightly narrower than the one that was in the hunter. that rad will stay in there to cool the 4age. wiring on the Ute is simple as, just a matter of redirecting some wires, fuel system is already done, utes use the same pumps as a s1 rx7, factory facet. picked up some black d window rims for it, 17x8s. Should look alright, bloody heavy though. I’ll need to order new door frame and window rubbers for it. but hopefully the hunter will be up and running fairly soon.

Bloody mongrel cars haha. anti seize for the win

Have you seen the urchfab 105e? Mushy pea green, that would suit it nicely

I once had a gearbox stuck on a dowel/spline. gave it a big clutch kick and she popped off

I’m a total noob with efi and conversions. need info on what I should be doing for this efi fuel system for the 4age swap . I only have a low pressure line and pump on the car at the moment. im guessing that line can be used for the return line. do I need to use a surge tank or would it be fine directly from the tank with an inline efi pump?

Wow, I remember this thread . that van went well for an old girl. I ended up replacing the motor for a good ld28 and kept the turbo on it, rolled coal at 13psi. sold it to my sister lol. Diesel is just not worth the $ and the slowness now

My phone is gay and won’t download anything. cheers Clint

Is it legal to have a small surge tank with internal pump mounted in the engine bay?

The hunter is now a dedicated 4age homie.. mounts are finished. Gearbox mount is a bit meh looking. May upgrade that prior to cert. It’s definitely strong enough and functional, just not overly good looking like myself haha. now that the mounts are done, I can rip the motor back out, remove the battery tray as it’s too close to the intake. then I can prep the motor for refitting (fit the water rail, clutch, put the engine on a stand so I can pull the sump and prime the oil pump etc, refit intake with injection etc). not too sure how these things go cooling wise, so I’ll be running a mint (near new) hunter radiator for now with a thermo fan and thermostatic switch. surprisingly the rx7 speedo cable fits right into the T50 box, so that’s already sorted.

12a be gone, 4age be in. getting this fully mounted is simple work with a little bit of fizzinometry aided by the welder. driveshaft is in. Exhaust will be a short link pipe from the headers to the main zorst. Headers are 2” out, zorst is 2.5” with 2 resonators and dumpy. gearstick lines right up with where the 12a poked up, mint. parts I know I need for this now is: clutch slave and rod, fuel pump and surge tank, sandwhich plate- I have the wrong one with the fork and starter on the same side, then sorted the wiring side of it yay not. @Stu has made my loom super tidy, but I’ll get the sparky 2 doors down from my shop to wire it all in correctly. 12a is queued up to go into the Ute. It can wait till I figure what is causing the clutch issue. looked over the Ute briefly, only one small patch of rust to do in the passengers foot well. Tidy up a couple of pieces on the deck and it’s ready to paint haha. even had the MA 1600 running.