shizzl

I’ve had vitour formula tyres on the Hunter for 6 years, grip better than others I’ve used. Run a 195/50

STA parts stock them. 
I have a set of 215/50s on the hotwires that don’t fit the Hunter unfortunately, need 205s or more 195s

Yeah I chatted to the dude, he didn’t really say much about it, it’s a shame the wheel looks average as

The upper arms on this can have the camber adjusted by packers between the arm bush bar mount thing and the chassis. Most have a couple of packers in from factory to correct the camber/castor.

should be all g

Never really been into airbrushing ae

19 minutes ago, Adoom said:

Do I recall something about proximity of things like fuel line, battery cable and brake line to the propshaft when routing under the car?
Or does it not matter where I run them as long as it's secure, not going to hit the ground and can't touch things that move or spin?

I had to fit a driveshaft hoop to the diff end on mine as the fuel line could’ve been taken out by a damaged driveshaft if the rear uj let go.

my fuel line had to run along the side of the tunnel

Nah it hasn’t gone to Smugz unfortunately. 
 

yeah the bolts look pretty slick IRL

So went to go to Waiau pa hop this morning, got 3km down the road and it started missing and spluttering.

then got progressively worse on the way back.

my guess is blocked injectors. 

That actually sounds fun

11 minutes ago, bigfoot said:

Im a maybe, would have to land in chch late and race car to hanmer

Need a wing man in that ride?

He’s always there circulating, good on the corners, lacks a bit of top end, sounds and looks awesome though

Anyone else planning to attend the Waiau Pa Hop on the 7th April?

held at the Clark’s Beach yatch club at the end of Torkar rd.

register before midnight to have a entry sticker mailed out.

entries close on the 6th April but must print out an entry number if entered after midnight tonight (27th March).

approx 200 cars entered last year.

Http://www.pahop.org

9 minutes ago, Bling said:

While painful to weld upside down, inside a boot, I never had any issues with plain wire + gas. I wouldn't do that with flux wire unless I was going to drink a lot of milk afterwards.

Respirator helmet for the win.

i use one for alloy welding now, probably 10 years too late for my lungs. 
mainly got it for cool air flow during summer.

its nice to go home and not feel like shit.

galvanic poisoning is worse than being kicked in the nads

13 minutes ago, westy said:

Rotaries sit higher because the eccentric shaft is close to centre of the drum. Crankshaft’s sit in the bottom of the engine. 

Boys have a penis, girls have a vagina……….. back in my day 

so as I left it today, the engine slope is 5 degrees, the first shaft matches this , the second uj and pinion angle also match.

im sure it works as most lifted 4x4s have a steep driveshaft angle aswell.

it would be nice to level out the engine, however to do that, I’d need to lift the hanger bearing and completely remove the tunnel right to the back of the cab, and lift the hanger crossmember. 
bit of a major but all doable.

my first ute I just slapped it in and she was sweet with no vibration at all

2 minutes ago, igor said:

Please pardon my ignorance of all things rotary but why are they configured like that? Is there any reason for the inlets not being at right angles to the rotational axis of the rotors?

Maybe to accommodate from the massive Gs on mega torque clutch dumps and wheel stands? Haha  

yeah right. 
 

not sure, but by my retarded thinking, if the engine is flattened off and the carbs leans forward 5-6 degrees then the rear rotor may be more likely to lean out and heat up. Which is what kills most 12a’s - dead rear rotors.

going to injection would fix that, until it dies eventually anyway (I am yet to have one die).

This is the carb angle compared to the block. Probably why rear rotors burn up in most carbed cars. 

@RXFORD

I tried relocating the engine and box a bit.

this crossmember is from the other ute that the previous owner mounted.

so I dropped the front crossmember 25mm, and raised the box 25mm.

now the out put shaft/engine is at 5.2 down, first shaft is 5.4 down, second shaft is 11.2 up if the rear pinion is at 5.2 to match the hanger uj. 
is that ballpark correct now?

this pulls the carb 2 degrees forward

Just now, fletch said:

Looks like raising the hanger bearing would be pretty easy.

How much more penetration do you need into the box? Can you make a 30-50mm spacer with a male and female spigot to go into the front of the diff flange to space the shaft forward? If you do it at the same time as the hanger move it will look 'stock' too

Yup I could do a spacer for the rear.

it will be about 40mm at most by the time I raise the hanger, this will push the shaft in a little more at the same time.

that entire hanger crossbeam can disappear in favour of a new one.

luckily this sits in behind the cab too

That’s only ride height, or just lower than ride height (90mm clearance).

4 minutes ago, RXFORD said:

What angle is the 2nd shaft on?

I took a pic though.

ill be making a new shaft for this one cos it doesn’t go into the box far enough now that I’ve changed a couple of things