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shizzl

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Everything posted by shizzl

  1. Anyone else planning to attend the Waiau Pa Hop on the 7th April? held at the Clark’s Beach yatch club at the end of Torkar rd. register before midnight to have a entry sticker mailed out. entries close on the 6th April but must print out an entry number if entered after midnight tonight (27th March). approx 200 cars entered last year. Http://www.pahop.org
  2. Respirator helmet for the win. i use one for alloy welding now, probably 10 years too late for my lungs. mainly got it for cool air flow during summer. its nice to go home and not feel like shit. galvanic poisoning is worse than being kicked in the nads
  3. Boys have a penis, girls have a vagina……….. back in my day so as I left it today, the engine slope is 5 degrees, the first shaft matches this , the second uj and pinion angle also match. im sure it works as most lifted 4x4s have a steep driveshaft angle aswell. it would be nice to level out the engine, however to do that, I’d need to lift the hanger bearing and completely remove the tunnel right to the back of the cab, and lift the hanger crossmember. bit of a major but all doable. my first ute I just slapped it in and she was sweet with no vibration at all
  4. Maybe to accommodate from the massive Gs on mega torque clutch dumps and wheel stands? Haha yeah right. not sure, but by my retarded thinking, if the engine is flattened off and the carbs leans forward 5-6 degrees then the rear rotor may be more likely to lean out and heat up. Which is what kills most 12a’s - dead rear rotors. going to injection would fix that, until it dies eventually anyway (I am yet to have one die).
  5. This is the carb angle compared to the block. Probably why rear rotors burn up in most carbed cars.
  6. @RXFORD I tried relocating the engine and box a bit. this crossmember is from the other ute that the previous owner mounted. so I dropped the front crossmember 25mm, and raised the box 25mm. now the out put shaft/engine is at 5.2 down, first shaft is 5.4 down, second shaft is 11.2 up if the rear pinion is at 5.2 to match the hanger uj. is that ballpark correct now? this pulls the carb 2 degrees forward
  7. Yup I could do a spacer for the rear. it will be about 40mm at most by the time I raise the hanger, this will push the shaft in a little more at the same time. that entire hanger crossbeam can disappear in favour of a new one. luckily this sits in behind the cab too
  8. That’s only ride height, or just lower than ride height (90mm clearance).
  9. I took a pic though. ill be making a new shaft for this one cos it doesn’t go into the box far enough now that I’ve changed a couple of things
  10. Lots, I can’t remember, I left the tech drawing pie wrapper on the workbench in the shop
  11. Yeah I’ve got the pinion angle at 3 degrees, which matches what the uj is at the hanger bearing, front is around 7 or so
  12. Any of you good folk know of an app or whatever that can calculate the correct driveline angles for a 2 piece driveshaft? I need to sort out if the hanger bearing needs relocating and pinion angle. engine sits around 6.5 degrees to sit the carb level. i can’t find any info on standard rx7 driveline angles to start with. from there the first driveshaft is on a 3 degree down slope, then the second hauls arse upwards to ride height. my thinking is the hanger needs lifting up. But lack of good online info has me baffled. Most only go into a single piece set up which is piss easy
  13. If you have a booster on the brakes, disconnect it , plug the hoses and test it. ive had issues with mine dragging, locking on , then pedal goes to the floor. No leaks. I’ve pin pointed it to a valve inside the remote slave jobby. on the list to go in the bin. Just need a flare tool to fit the new unit.
  14. I get that every time with the hunter. If they don’t know or can’t find the manufacturers specs for play etc, then they request that you find this info and return. i took a workshop manual with me last time to show steering box play etc. theyr just covering their ass
  15. Nosecone is fully mounted, rough guards are on for mock up. this ute seems to be longer than the other ute. Probably built in a different factory as they are 4 years apart from memory.. im glad I chose to use this ute for RX3UTE, it is the same model and spec now.
  16. It takes a special kind of idiot to take a perfectly good, freshly panelled car, and chop it to bits. boy I need help Cut all the things!!!!!
  17. Is it normal for a 4 link kit to taper in 20mm each side? each arm is angled off at one end of the arm where it connects to the bushing. would’ve thought that they would be all straight.
  18. Got home from Low Key Nats to find a nice package had arrived.
  19. The more I read these info snippets, the more I realise that I must be close to death already. Bogging, sanding, painting, grinding alloy , galvanic poisoning about 20 times. Yup way to look after myself. she’ll be right *sigh*
  20. Picked up a pair of trailer guards, aka wheel tubs from a solid GC today. just sat them in place where I think they’ll end up, or there abouts. stood back and admired the look, quite like it. still need to trim to fit snug once it’s all decided.
  21. Got back from Japan with my little UP Garage purchase. fitted it as soon as I got to the shop this morning. Dayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyymmmmmmmm
  22. Not much of an update really. i ended up ordering a set of air ride nz’s notch kit that he had in stock. Listed as an 8” notch. i roughly sat one side in place, I figure it allows for a 70/80mm bump stop on the diff in this position. Had a play around with the air system layout on the other ute. It will all sit below the deck floor. And each compressor will have a water trap before the tank. the valve block can mount to the factory spare wheel mount. Looks quite good like that however, a deal came up on marketplace that I thought was pretty good. A “showtime” bag fitting kit for $250. this included everything in the photo below. Chrome 9 port tank, pressure switch, compressor, 2 gauges, solenoid, 10 switch controller, 3/8” and 1/4” air line, 8 x 3/8” bag solenoids, a bunch of air line fittings and a full set of bag mounts (cup type). I will use these solenoids, fittings, airline and tank. i won’t use the switch block and compressor, gauges and upper bag cups. this means my valve block, switch panel will be redundant ( this is a full kit minus bags). I can potentially buy 4 more bags to make another full kit (single pump). the air management system I will use is an air command air8000 system that has 8 presets with a digital display. i only need to figure out a way to lock out the system while it’s driving. maybe a wheel speed sensor somehow, this will be wired through the air8000 alarm circuit which locks the system when set/armed. I’m sure that will work. i slapped the tail lights in the tray for max visual, so stoked. Just need to finalise that concave line now. i fly out to Japan in 4 days, so nothing else will happen until after nats. i would like to hunt down a nice steering wheel while im over there.
  23. I have done some testing. I packed out the balljoint by 10 degrees, eased the binding but is very close to maxing out. so with the spare set of arms I pie cut them to 15 degrees. At ride height the balljoint sits neutral, and max lift and lower it doesn’t max out. i have noticed that the balljoint has an angle on it from factory of around 6/7 degree by eye. finding a flatted/neutral balljoint would be the ideal solution though.
  24. Slap a stamp on it and give it the big send
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