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Carsnz123

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  1. Carsnz123
    So, a little welding, hammering and cursing at springs (damn you Volkswagen and your multi spring rear brake setup) later the new wheel bearings and brake shoes were installed as well as a couple extra hangers for the exhaust. It went for a recheck earlier in the week and today I picked up some plates for it. So now its road legal HOORAYYYYYY With new plates cable tied on I, as any sensible car enthusiast would, decided the first thing on the agenda was to go blasting up the main street of Ashburton with the little 4 at full song. The car was dirty as shit but it had the desired effect as lunchtime shoppers looked round to see where this symphony of amazingness was originating. Agenda item no.1 marked off the next step was to address the issue of rather neglected paint. A bit of aggressive cleaner, water blaster, car wash and super sheen later and the car looks much better, not great but better. A bit of before and after The maiden voyage of sorts will be on Sunday where I shall embarrass myself with my noisy piece of dented gloriousnss at a large euro meet.
  2. Carsnz123
    I think you did a little. My calculations show 699 mm2 original carb and 3216 mm2 for new set of 4 32s. Seeing as each carb is going to be independent you really can only look at one cylinder. So it has gone from being able to draw through 699 mm2 venturi at WOT to 804 mm2 per cylinder. about a 15% increase. The next trick is to design manifolds which are tuned to give it a ram effect torque boost.
  3. Carsnz123
    I was sort of leaning towards the 32s as the original carb is a 19/23. I think the newer carbs probably will perform better as well.
  4. Carsnz123
    Someone with more knowledge than me lend me your wisdom. I'm doing a bike carb mod on my 1.3 mk2 golf and I've got a choice between a set of Keihin VE64B 34mm carbs off a 1987 CBX750 or Mikuni BDST32 32mm carbs off a 1995 RF400. The plan is to have a hot cam and headers to improve breathing and gain some ponies. so does anyone have any idea which carbs will be better?
  5. Carsnz123
    http://www.apcoilovers.com/ap_coilover_details.php?id=214 $660! cant really argue with that. Or you could get the really budget $300 JOM ones from VW heritage. Its a pity you didn't put this up last week as I ordered some brake bits for my mk2 off VW heritage, could of combined shipping to bring the price down. Let me know how your suspension journey goes as I'm planning on some upgrades along the same lines.
  6. Carsnz123
    I'm tempted to drive down to this and camp overnight in the back of the wagon, probably be a good weekend if weather is good.
  7. Carsnz123
    Well my lack of action on the rear end bit me in the ass. It got chucked out on noisy rear wheel bearings, terrible rear brakes and the exhaust pipe moving too much. plus the high stop light was flashing with the right indicator. I must have wired it in wrong . So it's off to buy brake bits and do a little wiring.
  8. Carsnz123
    I decided to pull the brakes to bits to inspect them, in hind sight this was a bad idea. The rear linings were down to minimum, rear wheel bearings and seals were on their last legs, a CV boot was split and the front discs were heavily pitted from sitting for ages. The rear was cleaned and reassembled (it works so it is fine for now) but the front required action. Upon inspection the diesel discs, pads and calipers were in good condition so I spun the discs on the lathe and cleaned them up with a bit on emery paper and then all was installed. While I had the brakes apart I replaced the CV boot and cleaned and re-greased the CV itself. It was the first time I pulled a CV to bits but it's really simple. So with everything bolted up it got loaded on the trailer and dragged to Ashburton. I put it up on the hoist at work and gave the underside and engine bay a steam clean, probably removed a few kilos of dirt and yuck. Hopefully the list from the compliance place isn't to long. For all anyone knows this pic could of been taken in the 80s
  9. Carsnz123
    IT'S VINNING TIME!!!!! I Bolted in a basic interior consisting of door panels, seats and dash. No need for anything fancy. The original gauge cluster had Chernyobled a few components resulting in nothing working so the diesel parts one was sub in. the kms have jumped up 100,000 (no I can't be assed pulling it to bits and winding it back) but everything works and I gained a clock. Plus it has a redundant glow plug light which might make people confused.The diesel parta also donated various nuts and bolts, a straight front bumper and rear seat mounts.
  10. Carsnz123
    A truck and trailer with faulty lights had a good go at making sure I didn't.
  11. Carsnz123
    butler auto in Christchurch had 1gge waterpumps on the shelf when I needed one a couple of years ago. cant remember the brand.
  12. Carsnz123
    man that penny took It's time.
  13. Carsnz123
    Quick update in minimal work. Turns out my little 1.3 has an Audi 50 distributor on it. With broken dizzy cap and rotor in hand I walked into Butler Auto (best place to find rocking horse dung in Christchurch) and got a replacement. Timing back in spec and she runs great...except at idle. More problems to fix. I went on an excursion to pick a part looking for wheel and brake parts. Didn't find brake parts but there was a set of Mk3 D slot steelies. They need a lick of paint but the slightly increased dimensions make car look a little more in proportion. Tyres, Grille, Lights and seats then VIN. Cant wait to take it for a run over Dyers pass
  14. Carsnz123
    Won't be able to make it Friday but the crown will be clean as a whistle for Saturday
  15. Carsnz123
    Hell yeah, Lets get alllll the crowns out there.
  16. Carsnz123
    The Parts, The Project and The Work Horse Bucket seat for extra... er... race-car-ness?
  17. Carsnz123
    After changing the air filter, cleaning and re gaping the plugs, setting the valve clearances which were almost 3 times what they should have been and tweaking the idle speed I had the little golf running smooth as a fancy gold watch. It was running so well I decided to go for a quick squirt up the road. It accelerated well, sounded good and road well. The gearbox has a massive jump between second and third, almost feels like there should be an extra gear in it. Pretty much now its just needs the electrics sorted, new tires and the seats bolted in and it should be ready for vinning.
  18. Carsnz123
    The oil looked like it hadn't been changed in a while and the inside of the motor was a bit grimy so a bottle of flushing oil was put through the engine and after 10 min of idling and subsequent overheating due to the fan deciding it didn't want to work (more electrical issues... great) the inside of the engine was all shiny and clean.
  19. Carsnz123
    The last couple of weeks have been filled with sorting small issues, lots and lots of small issues. The indicators and hazards don't work and after spending most of a day on them I'm still confused as to why not. I made the rear fog light work, helps to have a fuse in it. It was missing a little so I decided removing the distributor cap was a good idea. I was greeted with scenes of butchery I cant even begin to fathom. Someone in the past couldn't get the right dizzy rotor so decided packing an 1.8 rotor with electrical tape so it fitted on the shaft was a good idea. Problem is there was nothing but hopes and dreams holding it in place and was rotating out of time. Getting the right rotor is proving difficult so a dot of super glue is keeping the timing for the short term.
  20. Carsnz123
    Everything was new except the magnetos and their mounts. As far as I'm aware a number of blocks, crankcases and crankshafts have been made but only one complete engine has been produced.
  21. Carsnz123
    I thought I might be able to get a bit more power out of a boosted 1.6 over the 1.3. also if anything goes pear shaped ill still have a motor to bolt back in. I wonder if the little 190mm clutch will handle 160+hp.
  22. Carsnz123
    I work for the Bentley service agent in Ashburton. Not sure about the grade of iron. One of the guys was telling me the cast iron produced today is different to the stuff used back in the 20s and 30s. you might want to find out what Bugatti were using back in the day and compare it to your local foundry. It will be a shit of a job if you have to put hardened valve seats in.
  23. Carsnz123
    Awesome project. going to be keeping an eye on this. The company I work for built a couple of 4 1/2 liter Bentley engines from scratch before i started there. Its interesting to see the process of recreating the parts. You want to be sure the grade of cast iron is up to scratch as you'll run into valve recession problems if its a little soft.
  24. Carsnz123
    I was thinking of finding a 1.6 out of a polo and slapping an SC14 supercharger on it. Everyone has 1.8Ts so i'm going to be a difficult bastard and be different. massive turbo does sound tempting though.....
  25. Carsnz123
    Discussion For Golf build //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53907-carsnz123s-1984-volkswagen-mk2-golf-3-door/
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