moparmuppet

Link for the rubber boots for your door - pillar wiring please and thanks.

School me please. Say a car is bought into NZ and regoed as for instance, 289 V8 power. On inspection of build plate it was a 6 cyld poverty pack with front disks optioned. Obviously it was repowered before entry but what do we know about springs, other driveline components (swaybar sizes, diff and rear brake sizing) being uprated to V8 specs. Should this be picked up on entry check? Should the car require a cert as driveline doesn't match decoded data plate? Does the owner just run with it? Thanks in advance, the Muppet

Not me, all at sea. Mrs is taking her 59 Caddy limo if things line up

I'm at sea. Buy me some totally pooed shit I don't need and I will sort you out later. chur

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/listing/2776488870?rsqid=f09e871ad93b4dd18470e021c7e3dd02-001&bof=kbzupWti turnerschch are selling 10 x 2013ish postie bikes at the moment. All reg/wof by the looks, around 50000kms, Bidding is $500-800 , finishing thursday. I've got nothing suitable for this and way too far out to know if I will be home, but these are cool roads. The drop from the top of Mongatapu into matai valley in Nelson might be gnarley, all the more reason to have little bikes that you can have both feet on the deck with.

Gidday Yowzer. I just got a hoist, new, single phase. 2.2kW,( 4200kg) so about 3 times the size of the tyre machine motor . I understand there will be a bit of torque loss with a VFD converter but I am hoping it takes less ergs to turn a tyre than to lift a yank tank. They did build this machine as 230V 1 ph but who knows what gearing differences to achieve it etc. Bodging it myself with a motor from under someones bench would probably end up with a sub-optimal result so if I went single phase it would need to be as per factory, especially with your input there. kinda has me leaning toward VFD. Cheers

Cheers @Adoom That plane must be getting low on fuel. If it runs out it will be stuck up there forever. If it turns up I would be keen on your review of it (Mauser lathe right?) Just seen this on T.M. but it sure seems arse about face with the wiring. https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2725788388 230 1 phase to the motor and converter out the other side? I just want a VFD with a PDL plug on the output I would think. Do you have a link to the VFD you allegedly bought? Thanks for clearing some of the muddle up. Seems like if I am rated 230V Delta it shouldnt be too hard. (easier than getting a single phase and making it reverse. Gonna email the agents as well though. Nothing like doing it once, poorly eh?

Thanks @vk327 @drftnmazI was thinking about all the control side and wanting to reverse the motor too, thinking it might have been in the too hard basket with single phase. I will ring the old agents and see if they have any info. You mention star, most of these 3 phase tyre machines are 2 speed turntables and assume the first 1/2 press of the pedal runs star, a full press will go delta so I am guessing that means the motor will be happy running star all day without overheating. Drftnmaz. Looking at your motor plate it is 220V on delta and 380 on star? not the other way round as you mention at the top of your reply? Does that mean it is rated for 3 x 220v in Delta Are your machines running 220 or 380? Hooked up star or delta? Do the 220V x 1 input VSDs output 3 x 220v or 3 x 380v? Just trying to get my head around it all. I will be home mid weekend and will look at the motor plate. Cheers, Vaughan.

Who are the clever electrical boffins on here? There was a tyre machine topic 3 years ago but looks like the O.P. has left our fine company. I have an 2nd hand 3 phase tyre machine on the way and a single phase supply. Can anyone school me on 230V single phase to 3 ph 400V thingeys and terminology. The 3 phase motor is 0.75 kW. I have 230v 15Amps available. For a tyre machine that you would want to start and stop instantly ( and reverse on its rotary switch) I guess I want a frequency converter? not a VSD? Guess they are cheaper too? Or use a VSD and make the starting and stopping ramps as vertical as allowed? What is the recomended way of sizing the units for fairly high load instant running applications like the tyre machine? @00quattro00 does Mum still work for ABB? I also have a work card that worked bloody well last time I bought at IDEAL electrical. Depending on the neds I figure a brand name sourced from this once-great nation will be a better bet than one from the buttplug builders. As you can see I know nothing. School me please. Hugs, Vaughan.

Hey @Valiant. Nooice car. I chased high temps in my 440 for quite a while. Have a 4 core copper radiator, similar cam etc to you. 3.73 gearing in a 8.8" Changed to a MrGasket thermostat that failed after 3 heat cycles(Hint, read the Fkn review BEFORE you buy, lad). Fixed it now I reckon, 10 mins idling in Park in Nelsons glorious midday summer sun OK. ( twin china fans.) Biggest gains. Go to www.Flowkoolerwaterpumps.com for one of their waterpumps at about $120 USD, made for bigger flow at reduced R.P.M. and a proper RobertShaw branded balanced thermostat from the same place.(370 series? Don't quote me on that) These balanced thermostats are more of a "sleeve style than a "poppet" type and on my pump housing at least they kinda seal on a second part of the housing 3/4" down with the sleeve part. they circulate the water right round the block when warming up instead of the water just running round and round the bypass. Thus no hot-spots at the back of the block. they were designed for when the big 4-5 tonne motorhomes came out with 440s to aid cooling when lugging up hills etc. A high volume water pump can actually push enough water that a normal poppet thermostat will struggle to open against the pressure, hence the balanced thermostat needing fitted with the pump as a pair. These 2 things, fitted together transformed it. No more anxious coming up to the lights, how far will the needle climb malarkey. Good luck.

Good stuff @Mof . So much of this will help me out soon. I have a broken dream in my shed. What fixings were you using between the wood and cladding? Nails or just special glue. What about fixing the wall and roof linings? I heard treated wood reacts with the alloy. Did you cut down your own wood from clears? Any link to the rules on venting a gas fridge as mentioned. I haven't succeeded with Dr Google. Thanks for spending the time with blogging this.

@ValiantHi Pete. It goes like this. Chinese 5.5 hp Honda. Pump is a Hi/Low unit, means quick ram until the load comes on, then gets slower but grunty. Motor, pump and ram specced as a unit. The v/v is a logsplitter v/v, it latches on in the return stroke while you grab another ring. Where you stand you are in right close to the ram and the v/v. A bit of table on the far side. As photos show, it will split a 450mm round with 1 hit. I grab the far bit, roll it sideways onto the table, the 1/2 on my side gets put on the table to my right. grab the other bit against the guts and roll it 1/8 turn after every split, Wood falls onto the elevator (run off the return hyds, can be removed) The stroke required to ping a bit off is around 200mm as seen. The pump doesnt kick into low for this sort of stuff so a cycle every 2 secs is no sweat. Photo shows where the head is when the average piece splits, barely driven the head depth. You can see how the Angle iron that the wood is supported against is the secret to the whole thing, allowing the wood to "hinge"on it and ping off. The beam that it sits on is the oil tank, holds 20l. Magnet bung at towball end with filler and sightglass, pump sucks from other end via a screw-on filter. Can be moved with a small 4 wheeler. As can be seen by the last photo, it doesn't want for power, cutting wood in 1/2 across the grain. Cheers to @scooters for doing the pics, Im on dial-up and my cellphone has a steam valve on the side of it coz oldschool.

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/ I bought gear from these guys for my driveshaft. pretty good prices for proper strong stuff. My driveshaft guy was a bit anxious when I told him i had got the bits myself but was chuffed when he saw what was in the box

Shit those knobs look the smicko man. What brand resin and pigments do you use. I have a steering wheel to have a go at but I haven't found my brave pills. I want a kinda see-thruough green with flake in it. I have green glitter and clearcast resin and have made a MDF template I was going to pour a 2 piece Plaster of Paris mould around. Not sure about runners/risers etc so procrastinating. What are your moulds made of to get that finish?

Will do @Valiant . Its a horizontal unit, light enough to tow with a quad (I don,t have a quad but). Are there pics of the front of your splitter with the engine/tank etc? Always interesting to compare different ways of tackling the same job. Home next week. Can't remember how to post pics etc so @scooters will need to hold my hand. Will stick it in the Chainsaw fred, maybe post the other shit I haven't got around to as well. Proper Barry here mate.

Just use solid 0.6 wire. lots of tacks, move around a heap, short welds to link tacks, lots of gentle hammering as the welds cool. What are you going to do about the fuel flap? I reckon that could look pretty cool. Good on ya.

Me too please if it doesn't get you sent on a date with Bubba. thanks.

Cheers for that. It has a really shallow full length sump so I was figuring the oil must have to sit above the base of the block. I will pour some in and see how that looks and make up a stick.

Yo Bro. Toyota 4V V8. Does any one know what the oil capacity is on one of these or have a dipstick they can measure from the rubber grommet to the high and low levels for me. I have a dipstick tube but no other info.Theye were in the Japan only Century so my old Ripco books don't help. Cheers, #poormanshemimuppet

I havent played on one of these in 25 years so these are only general musings. I don't know your skill level so sorry if I'm telling you to suck eggs. Is it running on 4 when you give it the squirt? Or really lumpy. Like have you mixed a couple of plug leads and its running on 2? Get it to run by pumping it for a few (10-20) seconds from cold then feel the exhaust manifold, are all branches the same lukewarm? If 2 are dead cold, thats a problem. All the same temp, or at least firing, and you didn't play with the distributor or have the leads off, then it is more likely carbie or vacuum. Crank the engine with the fuel line to the carb off. Are you getting enough fuel supplied from the fuel pump? Can you check the fuel float level, is the new needle/ seat assy letting enough fuel in? A quarter full carb will get a car firing on constant prodding the pedal but not have enough "head" to get fuel thru the venturis. Can you get someone to pump it to keep it running while you spray short bursts of Start-ya-bastard around the base gasket and manifold to block surface?( keep yer head away incase the engine backfires) If it irons out the issue a bit you have pinpointed the problem to where you are squirting Cant remember where the brake booster pulls vacuum from but have you cracked the vacuum hose pulling it off or refitting? Not sure if thats the vac line you mentioned but if it is leaking/old/cracked its big enough to kill the engine. The dist vac line off won't give that much grief Can you mix up the jets in the same venturi? Swapping side to side shouldn't be a problem, swapping around within the venturi(if you even can) would be sub optimal at least. Do you know now where you started from with what jet is where? Has kitting the carb made it better or worse than it was after the manifold was removed? If it is the same bag of balls you haven't manifestly fucked things up doing the carbie job, the oil leak/inlet manifold job is where it all fell apart. Have you got the old carbie gaskets etc. There are normally a choice of top gaskets with different holes and portings. Compare what you fitted with what you removed. It sounds like there be 2 issues. #1 was the running a little rough.# 2 is bag of balls since the inlet manifold was removed. Be calm, use logic. Good luck.

Glue some dirty Do Bro cans into the hole? Puncture bottom of can and drink goodness first and have lovely riptop left intact for full win. See you in a month and I will give you a hand, pretty big job eh.

Maybe hit up someone who makes the badges for the bike rallies and Rover car club barries sort of stuff. https://www.badgeworks.co.nz/index.php?route=product/category&path=59_75 There are probably others about

What do we use these days for lubing the old speedo cables when they start whipping? Was going to use CRC 808 silicon glide. Any better ideas. Cheers.

I understood it loved sticking to rust, smash off the loose stuff and go for it. I think you are overprepping by hitting with a flap disc. My 2c.

Our Caddy had 2 front lap belts, I fitted 3 in the rear and just carried on. Chrysler , same deal until I updated the cert for the brake mods etc and got the belts certed. Both cars had certs for lap belts in the front. no-one questioned the back belts. Use the proper sized plates and 1 bolt to 1 plate as per the law.