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1963 AP5

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  1. Now it's time to figure out how to get drive to the little supercharger. I had two choices when I started this project, make the drive system simple and compromise on the position of the supercharger making the manifolds awkward and difficult to fabricate, or mount the supercharger where I wanted it and get creative with the drive system. I close the latter and so the fun begins. I have started with the obvious and essential bits, a pulley on the crank and one on the supercharger. I had a nice disc laser cut to weld into the Sigma's factory crank pulley to allow attachment of the supercharger drive pulley. I modified a 8mm pitch timing belt pulley to fit the supercharger and also made one for the crank. It all bolted up alright and now I need to figure out the bits in between.
  2. Here is a trick that others might want to use. VT-VY commodores have a good throttle cable that can be easily adapted to fit almost any car. I have one in my Valiant and now also in the Sigma. They are dirt cheap, a decent length and are available from any Pick-a-Part in NZ. You simply make three plates to clamp the cable at the firewall (with fastening holes to suit your particular car) and if required do a little trimming of plastic and it works a treat.
  3. Nothing else to do this weekend but hang out in the garage and make brackets and fittings. Made a beefy bracket to fit in the A/C position, this will provide a mount for the supercharger drive layshaft, the forward belt tensioner and anything else I might choose to attach to it. Apparently Argon is not essential so I wasn’t able to purchase any. In this situation it was out with the trusty little Lincoln Electric arc welder to stick the bits of metal together. Everything went together well and the bolt holes even lined up when I was finished. Made an unnecessarily fancy brace for the manifold that may or may not be necessary and also made a fan shroud for the electric fan.
  4. Amazingly a few parts have shown up during lockdown so on with the show! The fuel pick up strainer arrived so I got the fuel pick up reinstalled and also mounted the electric fuel pump. I started installing the fuel lines however I ran out of 5/16 fuel hose so the last little bit will need to wait. I got the position of the fuel delivery device sorted so I trimmed the manifold flange, I am happy that everything fits right where I planned so that's a win. Old bogans will recognise the unmistakable shape of a Holley 2300 flange.
  5. So I have been waiting for essential parts to arrive from overseas and have been keeping myself busy with little things. The manifolds are all fitting nicely and all I need to do is trim the carburetor flange to size so it looks a little more attractive. I will wait until I have the carburetor mocked up in place before I do this to make sure I don't run into any clearance issues with the throttle and transmission linkages etc. It all ended up fitting very neatly around the strut tower and the carb should end up in a reasonable position with sufficient hood clearance. I also decided to fit larger fuel lines as the factory ones seemed very small. This is probably more for the future but since I am installing an electric fuel pump now I figured it was best to do the fuel lines as well. I removed the factory 1/4 inch return line from the car, and from the tank pick up assembly, and replaced it with a larger line that will become the fuel feed line. The original 5/16 fuel line will become the return. Bending all that hard line into the correct shape to fit with the factory lines was a challenge but it all turned out pretty well and looks neat and tidy installed in the car. I had to pull the driveshaft out to get access but no big deal.
  6. Another dozen Steinlager to the man with the aluminium welding skills and another little bit is stuck together.
  7. The next challenge is to figure out how to get the fuel/air from the fuel delivery device to the supercharger. Space is kind of tight so I decided to build a manifold that comes forward of the supercharger otherwise I will be cutting a hole in the bonnet. After a lot of head scratching and mocking up with paper, cardboard and plywood I arrived at this solution. Shaping the metal is a real challenge but it is coming together alright. I started to make the flange for mounting the carb but I ran out of weekend before I got very far. It will be kind of large to accept a Holley 2300 flange but I am sure I will be able to trim it down when I have the exact position of the carburettor sorted out.
  8. This weekend has been all about making some brackets so the supercharger isn't just dangling off the manifold. I am going to use an electric fuel pump so I decided to repurpose the fuel pump mounting location and made a bracket to support the lower supercharger mount. The upper mount is fastened back to a couple of studs on the engine that used to support the air filter assembly, I hope this is strong enough but didn't really have a lot of other options for this one.
  9. I figured I should probably have a look inside the engine to see if its actually worth the attention I am giving it. Good news is it seems to be in great condition, it's very clean so must have been well looked after over the years. It might even survive with the new belt driven intake. I am also having second thoughts about the carburettor choice for this set up. I have been doing a lot of research and it seems that the Weber is not well suited to a draw through application. It seems that a 350 Holley is a much better option (as previously suggested by @RUNAMUCK). There is plenty of info available on modifying the power valve for boost reference so I will probably put the Weber to one side and look for a Holley to play with. If anyone has a decent 350 Holley that might be for sale please let me know.
  10. Big progress today. Now I need to figure out the drive system. I am planning on running an idler shaft down where the air conditioning compressor would be. This is necessary as the supercharger drive flange is positioned well behind the crank pulley. With this set up I will be running the supercharger via two drive belts but it seems like the most practical solution and will also avoid clearance issues when the distributor is reinstalled. Right now I am liking the look of this.
  11. I got a bit more welding done on the manifold. I'm not welding this myself, I have a good friend that is a very good aluminium welder/fabricator and he is doing the welding for me. I am making all the bits and he is sticking them together for me. I certainly couldn't weld like this!! Now I need to cut a hole in it so I can attach a flange for the supercharger.
  12. Another quick update, got some welding done on the manifold and did my best to smooth out the ports etc. I am sure the design is far from optimum but I think it will work. I made some more bits to box it in. Now more welding....
  13. Big thanks to @MaxPower for helping out with a spare manifold from one of his vans. I checked online and for some reason you can buy a supercharger manifold for your Corvette or Mustang but there is no off the shelf option for your 1982 Mitsi Sigma. I will have to make one, what could possibly go wrong? I will post more pictures as the manifold comes together
  14. I have yet to properly investigate the power valve set up on the Weber but I expect the principle is similar to the Holley. I believe it lives under the top plate and maybe it can be tuned or modified to work with the van supercharger. We will see I guess.......
  15. Thanks Yep I am planning on doing a draw through set up using the 32/36 that I already have. I am pretty sure that the Holley would be better for this application but I have the Weber so I will give it a try. I am assuming you set up your Holley with an externally referenced power valve. It is a 2000cc so I will start with a 1:1 ratio.
  16. I'm trying to keep things as simple as possible so I am planning on building a draw through set up using the Weber.
  17. If anybody knows where I might find an inlet manifold for a RWD SOHC Mitsubishi 4G63 engine please let me know. I will need one to hack about (modify) in order to make this work.
  18. The Sigma has been sitting around a bit. I drive it every so often but it's kind of underpowered compared with my Aussie 6 cylinder stuff and I really wish it wasn't. I have been toying with the idea of repowering it but I thought I might try to liven up the stock engine first. A buddy of mine dropped this off over the weekend. I really have no idea what I am doing but that has never stopped me in the past. What could possibly go wrong?
  19. Here you go @MaxPower The front springs were just a little loose with the car jacked so I made them secure the oldschool way with some locking wire.
  20. The carb is all back together and hopefully in working order now. The main things I have changed are: 1) Replaced the primary jet holder and the jet. I have a 60 in my Weber and I did some digging through my parts box and found a spare 57 so I fitted it for you. This will be pretty close but it may still need some minor tuning if everything goes well. 2) Tidied up the carb spacer and fitted fresh gaskets. 3) Fixed up the idle mixture adjustment screw. I found that this was kind of gummed up and when it felt like the screw was all the way in, it was actually about 3mm away from the orifice in the carb barrel. I think this would have made it almost impossible to correctly adjust the idle fuel mixture. I cleaned it all up and pre-set the adjustment screw one and a half turns out. This should be a reasonable starting point but will no doubt require some fine tuning. 4) Sorted out the various vacuum connections and labelled the ones you need to connect to get things working properly. I did notice that the vacuum diaphragm for the automatic choke isn't in good shape. Did you get one of these with your carb kit? If so I think you should fit it to the carb. All the other choke components seem to be in reasonable order and I think the auto choke would probably work if this diaphragm was replaced. The idle-up adjustment screw was missing so I have replaced that so all that's missing now is the vacuum diaphragm.
  21. In the 1980's car manufacturers seemed to think it was a good idea to supply their customers with unnecessary and unsightly additional ride height. Last weeks project was to correct this with new springs and shocks all round. The car didn't drive particularly well so I did a back yard wheel alignment with string and a tape measure. I found that the front wheels were actually toed out so I also corrected that problem and it drives heaps better now. I will get it in for a proper wheel alignment sometime soon.
  22. Finally I have an interesting theory about the make shift jet holder. While re-purposing the solenoid body as a jet holder seems like a good idea I think there may be a problem with this in practice. The solenoid body has quite a large internal volume compared with a jet holder and this void must be filled with fuel before the primary low speed circuit can begin to supply fuel to the engine. Further to this, any air or vapour trapped in this area will affect the fuel delivery to the engine. I believe there is also the potential for fuel to leak back down from this little reservoir again affecting the fuel mixture at low to mid engine speeds. The good news is I am sure I have a spare jet holder for an ADM somewhere in my parts stash and if I can find it I will send it your way so you can give it a try. I will put it all back together sometime this week and hopefully we can get it sorted.
  23. The next thing I noticed was the absence of gaskets on the spacer at the base plate. When I disassembled this I found evidence of vacuum leaks in this area. I will tidy this up and reassemble it with a couple of gaskets installed. If we manage to get the carb working properly you will need to replace this with a metal spacer.
  24. Had a look at the weber on the weekend and i have discovered a few things and have a couple of ideas to share. Firstly the accelerator pump boost diaphragm is set up in a rather unusual manner. On my ADM this diaphragm is supplied with a vacuum signal internally (shared with the power valve) but on your carb the internal port is blanked off and it seems to be supplied from an external vacuum source. Either someone has set it up this way on purpose, although I am not exactly sure why you would do that, or it simply has some incorrect parts fitted. Either way I am sure you can make it work by simply connecting this vacuum line to manifold vacuum.
  25. The throttle cable bracket took some figuring out but I got it all working with the factory cable.
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