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Posts posted by 1963 AP5
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This was also an LC GTR when it left the factory back in 1970.
When I got the car it had already been converted to LJ spec with the later model nose cone, tail lights etc.
The engine was a 186 and I installed a yella terra head with triple carbs and other go fast bits.
It had a Toyota 5 speed gearbox as was done back in the day.
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Does anybody know the whereabouts of this Holden Torana?
I'm just keen to know where it is.
I have been told by an old friend that the car was last spotted in Rangiora but that was a few years ago now.
According to carjam the car last had a WOF in 2017 but the rego is still live so must be on hold.
I’m guessing it is either being restored or is just lying around in a shed somewhere.
This photo was taken at least 20 years ago but I understand that when the car was last seen it looked much the same.
It may even have been turned into a GTR-XUI replica with the application of the decals on the front guard etc.
The plate was NM3375 but looks like it was replaced by a personalised plate MYI970.
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Looks like the large jet holder is still available overseas
Primary Idle Jet Holder for Weber 32/36 DGAV, Large Size - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
52570.011 - Jet Holder LARGE fits Weber 32/36 DGEV DGV DGAV DFEV DGES (carburetion.com)
and Weber Performance in Australia still sell the larger jets to suit the 34ADM.
DGAV DGAS ADM Weber Carburettor Idle Jet (larger primary) Weber Performance Carburettors
Have a look down the carb barrels on a 34ADM, you will notice that even though both have 34mm butterflies the venturi sizes are very different between the primary and secondary. Insufficient air velocity through that big secondary venturi can be a problem on small engines unless they are fairly heavily modified and screaming. The carb is really designed for larger capacity engines (4.1L Falcon) but was a popular swap for modified engines with smaller displacement simply because they were cheap and plentiful back in the day. Mine works great on a 3.3L Holden 6. I have never tried one on anything smaller but I have heard of people having success with them on modified 4 cylinder engines.
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You are correct, not all 34ADM's have the 2-stage jet, only the ones that were equipped with emission control gear.
The 34ADM has a very large secondary venturi and I think that is why it uses a very large secondary jet. Some small engines struggle with the Weber 34 because they simply can’t get enough airflow through the secondary venturi to make it work properly. For this reason, the 32/36 is often a better option for engines under 3.0L. I believe the secondary venturi is actually smaller on a 32/36.
I have never actually worked out the fuel economy on the Holden, but I expect it is similar to the original Rochester carb (certainly no worse). I think the Weber is more responsive than the original carb but to be fair the original wasn’t working properly and that’s why I replaced it with the Weber. I simply couldn’t get a kit to overhaul the original carb so the Weber conversion was a good option. It’s been running trouble free with the Weber on for around 5 years now.
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On 08/03/2023 at 14:53, deankdx said:
BUGGER ME!
i had just been reading your awesome thread (second link in first post no longer works, any idea what it was for?)
anyway, i had tried(failed) one of these carbys on my gemini 2litre (rodeo engine) briefly and it was running rich to the point of fouling the plugs and sounding like a PP rotary
i'll bet it had the vacuum port blocked due to the adaptor plate for the 32/36My first thoughts were this carby was HEAPS more responsive than the 32/36 i ended up with (dyno tuners choice, he said they'd flow similar, and the smaller primary on the 32/36 would better suit the 2 litre..)
i had started trying to remove the power valve(interference fit) and gave up.. bought another carby but was persuaded to go to the 32/36 by the tuner. (lucky i didn't try fit the second 34ADM as it would have done the same.
Brilliant thread @1963 AP5 I'm glad you took the time to document it and explain it so well. (i'm expecting that carb to be fine albeit with plier marks all over the power valve boss )
Thanks for your kind words.
The second link was for a special large jet holder that fits in place of the original 2 stage low speed jet solenoid assembly. They used to be available off the shelf but maybe there isn't enough demand anymore to keep making/selling them. It is possible to make a suitable jet holder if you measure up carefully and have acess to a lathe.
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Nice, it's all yours.
If you don't have a use for the N/A narrow block flywheel and clutch, I can give it a good home.
I have a feeling @MaxPower may have the flywheel that you need for your wide block turbo engine.
He has a fine stash of Mitsubishi goodies so it might be worth touching base with him.
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Hey just a thought and maybe you have already thought of this but your N/A transmission may not work with the turbo engine.
I believe that N/A engines are often a narrow block design (but not always) while the turbos are a wide block.
The bellhousing may not bolt up to the turbo engine so it might pay to do some measuring to see what you actually have.
The gear ratos are also diferent for the turbo engine.
I have a transmission under my workbench that I believe is a wide block Turbo Starion item so let me know if you want to grab it.
Free to a good home if you are willing to collect or ship it from Matata in the Bay of Plenty.
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When I first started following your build thread I have to admit I thought you were mad and there was no way the car would ever see the road. It seemed like a basket case. It looks like you are well on the way to proving me wrong so well done. This is going to be an awesome car!
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For what it's worth I like the Hotwires, I've never seen a Mustang with Cheviot wheels on it before and it makes me smile.
Gives it a down under feel!
Loving the car - well done so far!!
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Sounds about right, one of my mates got a R32 GTS4 around the same time.
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I wonder what you paid for one as a fresh import back in the day?
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2 hours ago, cletus said:
Which countries have those rules @1963 AP5?
I understand that restrictions on the use of older vehicles are becoming common right across Europe in the form of low emission zones.
Most (but not all) have some exemptions for classic/vintage/historic vehicles.
The concern is that NZ seems to be adopting a lot of environmental policy from Europe and It's certainly possible that NZ could adopt a similar model.
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10 hours ago, Otodat said:
Is there an implication here that vehicles over a certain age are not going to be allowed for normal use?
This has already happened in some countries and there is real concern amongst the classic and vintage car community that it could happen here at some point in time. To the best of my knowledge the NZ Government hasn’t suggested this yet, but I understand that the minister has indicated that they are looking at how the use of vintage and classic vehicles is being managed in other countries. In some countries you are only allowed to drive a classic/vintage car or Hot Rod to and from shows and events and we wouldn’t want that to happen here.
I know a couple of the larger New Zealand Car/Hot Rod Clubs are taking this issue seriously. I attended the VCCNZ AGM last year in Christchurch and the March executive meeting (held online) a few weeks ago and these matters were discussed at both meetings.
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The topic of the environmental impact of our hobby was discussed at the VCCNZ AGM in Christchurch last year with specific reference to the new import laws. The simple fact is that most of us drive our hobby cars infrequently (normally on the weekends) and that is very different from a daily driver. Sure, my Valiant is a gas guzzler and not anywhere near as clean to run as my late model car but I’ll bet the late model car does more environmental damage than the 1960’s gas guzzler simply because it is on the road every day. For me the environmental argument just doesn’t stack up when you are talking about hobby cars and the environmental benefit that would result from restricting the use of these vehicles would be negligible.
Good news is the Government aren’t completely ignoring the issue and I don’t think they have any intention of killing our hobby. I wouldn’t be surprised however, if at some point in the future, you will need to be an active member of a recognised car club to drive a classic or vintage motor vehicle in NZ. I know this type of legislation is already proposed or maybe even in force in some countries.
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Hey everyone, Clint hit the nail right on the head!
I recently became a member of the Vintage Car Club of NZ, and that may seem a little uncool, but this very topic is one of the reasons I joined. The VCCNZ is one of those groups of enthusiasts who work with the NZ Government and have some influence over the law making (The New Zealand Hot Rod Association is another). Most people have no idea how much work these clubs and associations do on behalf of all of us so we can keep enjoying our hobby now and into the future.
The VCCNZ recognises all cars over 30 years old as eligible vintage/classic vehicles under their P80 category and are currently lobbying the government to amend the law to align with the VCCNZ classification. The VCCNZ management committee met with the Minister of Transport late last year do discuss topics like 12-month WOF’s for vintage and classic vehicles, discounted registration for vehicles over 30 years old and importing vintage and classic vehicles under the new regulations.
Organisations like the VCCNZ need the support of us younger car enthusiasts. There seems to be a reluctance these days to get involved with clubs, but the simple fact is we probably wouldn’t be able to enjoy our hobby without the good work that members of these organisations do for us.
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Well here it is the first run!
I have to say I am impressed with the Holley throttle body fuel injection system, the set up was simple and the engine started first turn of the key.
It drives pretty well and I expect it will only get better as the self-tuning software dials everything in.
Currently only making about 5 pounds boost but is already a huge improvement over the N/A set up.
I will run it for a while on low boost while I get the tune sorted and then install the 15% overdrive pulley to see what happens.
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On the final stretch now, I got the layshaft finished off and installed and finished off the belt drive. I also fitted up the electric fan to the radiator and refitted it to the car. Filled up the cooling system and amazingly had no leaks. Also as an extra little insurance policy I have installed a stand alone knock sensor to hopefully provide early warning if anything is going horribly wrong. It's a product made by Link and simply has an indicator light that is green when all is well and red when things are going pear shaped. I now have a nice little set of instruments in the centre console so I can keep an eye on what's going on. I think this will be running any day now.
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So here is the big news. When I started this project I had intended on modifying a Holley carburettor to run with the supercharger but I have decided to do something different. I started investigating options for EFI systems and landed on this. It's a Holley 2300 Super Sniper EFI system. It bolts up anywhere a 2 barrel Holley fits and is suitable for use with a draw through supercharger right out of the box. Got it bolted up to the manifold today and installed the throttle linkages etc. Got to do some wiring now. The last photo shows just how little real estate is left on the passengers side of the engine bay with everything installed. It took a bit of figuring out to make all of this fit.
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Updates are coming thick and fast at the moment. Got all of the manifolds installed and refitted the distributor. Also installed the last of the supercharger brackets so everything is nice and secure, you can now see how much fiddling around was involved in getting all of this to fit nicely in the passengers side of the engine bay. Now to get the fuel delivery system installed.
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Mitsubishi Celeste Value
in General Car Chat
Posted
The problem with old Mitsubishis is you can easily spend 40K restoring one to mint condition and when you are done you will have yourself a car worth 25K.
Have to agree with cletus on this one, they aren't worth very much in rough condition.
It would be a fun project to get one on the road but you wouldn't want to pay much for them.