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dmulally

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Posts posted by dmulally

  1. Really interested to see what you do AC wise if it is a bunch of bits or a kit. Having a bulkhead would make it easier. Where the condenser will go should be fun. 

    Semi related but I was having overheating problems in my 66 chev so I moved the gearbox cooler from in front of the radiator to under the passenger floor horizontally with a derale oil cooler kit with a fan. Seems to work ok so far so could be an idea. 

    • Like 2
  2. 38 minutes ago, Flash said:

    @dmulallyYep, full scoop already in place. It dropped the max temp a little bit. I'm getting a consistent 95C max in both traffic and at top speed these days. Still feels a bit high to me but she seems happy enough. I'm going to give the rad another flush as I still seem to have a bit of a brown tinge in the coolant when I last drained the system. Not lots, but just enough to stain the bottom of the bucket that I drain the coolant into.

    95 at both high and low speed seems interesting in itself.

    I think that's a fine temp though. Especially for where you are! 

    • Like 2
  3. On 18/11/2023 at 22:46, fuzzy-hair-man said:

    The blue wires are normally closed, (on when the switch is off, off when the switch is on) you could use them for fail safe things like if the sensor or switch for a temp sensor were to fail the pump or fan comes on as default, although most sensors would be normally open, so you'd need to be specific about using the blue.

    Googling the relay number it says its a accessories relay.. but only giving 5A to accessories seems problematic.. I know you could change it. Maybe one of the red positives is switched and the other is permanently live?

    Right so the second red wire will go to the switches. With both connected to the battery the blue wires are off. Ill tape those off so they dont get into mischief. 

    Few more things to test but I dont mind wiring. 

    Screenshot_20231120-174544~2.png

  4. On 18/11/2023 at 22:46, fuzzy-hair-man said:

    The blue wires are normally closed, (on when the switch is off, off when the switch is on) you could use them for fail safe things like if the sensor or switch for a temp sensor were to fail the pump or fan comes on as default, although most sensors would be normally open, so you'd need to be specific about using the blue.

    Googling the relay number it says its a accessories relay.. but only giving 5A to accessories seems problematic.. I know you could change it. Maybe one of the red positives is switched and the other is permanently live?

    Im just about to test the red wires now. I hooked them both up to the beefy red wire from the engine bay but I still need power to the other side of the switches on the dash. 

    So either that number 1 relay will provide it if it's always hot or one of the red wires will have to come off. Stand by. 

  5. On 10/11/2023 at 22:11, Valiant said:

    Try a garage that does LPG wof.

    They should be able to point you in the right direction.

    I tried that and the one they gave me shut down in covid lockdowns sadly. 

    I'll try the place @Nominal suggested and hopefully they can steer me in the right direction. This 25l/100 chev at around $3 is killing me. 

  6. I remember having massive dramas with this on my Commer van tank. For LVV I had to have a 1 way check valve on the breather and it made filling up awful. Used to just puke back at me at anything more than a trickle. I used to fill up jerry cans and use a hose line into the tank from that when I got home.

    I ended up taking off the check valve which helped some. Then I made the breather bigger and plumbed it into the filler neck right near the top. 

    Probably didn't help where the inlet came into the tank at the half way mark:

    spacer.png

  7. Replying to this to prove I have at least tried to search. 

    Does anybody know where you can get your LPG tanks recertified? I'm looking around Wellington. I rang a couple of gas places in Masterton but they either didn't care or my aussie accent is too strong for them to know what I'm banging on about. 

  8. More for my reference as there are hoses snaking all over the shop. I changed the 16mm hose lines that snake through the body to 19mm. What an absolute shit job that is. 

    Imphosediagram.jpg.ff331087b8c8c0c17687dff562f19683.jpg

    I'm not sure if I want the water running through the heater permanently or will attach it to a y splitter to bypass it. Mainly worried about coolant sitting stagnant in a shitty old core for 6 months at a time. Alternatively if I put in the Y splitter and the core develops a leak, it will take me two seconds to take it out of the loop. 

    I have collected some old heater cores over the years so will have to see which one has a fan (that is 12v and not 6v) and has no leaks. 

    ImpCores.jpg.9ea1d7832cc1fec24c0a3ace696d0381.jpg

    • Like 9
  9. 6 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

    Ramflo is at least an extra 20 bhp plus the everyday excitement of if it might do this... 

     

    2076371414.jpg

    So frustrating that I have 3 ramflo filters but all three a different. I'm not at a stage of my life where I can use miss matching air filters. 

    Even Imp owners have some standards. 

    • Like 1
  10. Hoping the brains trust can help me. The only air filters I can find are pit bike ones on a 45 degree angle. 

    It is 60mm id. I could possibly get a 45 degree reducer to 50mm and then use some VW beetle aftermarket chrome ones. 

    I do have one ramflo but it wont fit without some pipe cut at an angle between. 

    Open to ideas. 

     

    Screenshot_20231017-201848~2.png

    Screenshot_20231017-201905~2.png

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