dmulally
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Posts posted by dmulally
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Whilst I am here...
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Found a pic that tells a story.
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42 minutes ago, Adoom said:
I was meaning to ask if you'd actually got the ecotec running as EFI and what you'd done for the fuel. I plan on pulling out the fuel tank eventually to have a clean and inspection under there.
Yeh, there's not much left of the heater box thingy. I want to do something there to make it look less like there's a big bit missing. I think I might actually have the room to reinstate it, if I can figure out what it's meant to be like. I suspect there's supposed to be two kinda chambers or something? And a kind of rotating circular vent that's gone now? I've not had much luck finding any pictures or photos of the area that aren't obscured by an engine.Yeah one of the problems with the L67 is that the blower takes up a lot of room back there which won't be a problem for you so you can be a little more relaxed.
I just used two hoses into a jerry to get it running but have a look at the mild steel tube near the filler neck. It should be easy.This is a stock one with the vent missing. It was junk anyway so I'd look at putting in a proper universal heater box if you have the space. I wonder what else I cut away...oh well. You're about to find out!
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On 14/02/2024 at 11:22, locost_bryan said:
The Salisbury axle looks like a Capri V6 item, so a rear disc conversion for a Capri might be an option? Or is it a Mk2 Jag?
It's the CWP out of a Jag IRS rather than the Mk2 live axle. It's a cool little setup and seems very kit car like.
Not all of them fit however so a bit of homework is involved if changing the ratios. But with that overdrive box I wouldn't bother and the diff will be fine with the alloytec. I don't recall the brakes being a problem either in that one.
Before I forget I'm pretty sure I hacked the firewall so much there is no heater anymore. Also I recall having dramas with the fuel tank outlet fitting on the bottom. I can't remember exactly what I did but there was something happening down there. Not sure if it split screwing in or I swapped it already. Worth a look anyway. I was looking at doing the return to the filler neck. To test drive I used a jerry on the passenger seat which is always zesty.
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Sorry if this is a repost as I think I have asked this before. But does anybody know of any LPG specialists around Wellington? My WOF man said he could sign it off no worries. But although I have loads of parts I'm missing some lines and wouldn't mind some help on the initial tuning from a specialist.
I have found where to get the tanks certed which is in Porirua. -
1 hour ago, Nominal said:
Not the seller apparently?
Take out the "bou" and it could be me.
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Got a new set of school shoes on today and booked in a wof for Monday. Be interesting to see how long the list is.
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Now who here has a spare Imp laying around?
Besides me I mean.
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6 hours ago, igor said:
Do you though? My parents had a Standard Ten.
Too good for the Standard Eight and the boot you had to access from inside the car, eh?
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Love it.
My biggest mistake with that thing was leaving it as an auto. The manual box will make it a lot more fun.
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Managed to get onto the rust hole sooner rather than later. Mike let me know about it and I didn't want any low hanging fruit for the WOF man with my Aussie accent.
I drilled out the rust hole and then treated as much of the inside of the cavity before I plugged it up. It was pretty thin so used a nut to rest against the inside channel to link the inner panel to the outer. How I did that was to tack the nut in place then weld in the middle of the nut to the inner panel to join it all together. Annoyingly the only white paint I have is the stuff you use to mark grass for building which goes on terribly. But it should get me through a WOF, is stronger, and should fix the rust in the area.
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Cheers, Mike. Thanks for letting me groom you for a year in order to get this thing. Loved it since I first saw it.
Getting ready for a WOF so I can take my much abused chev off the road to give it a diesel conversion. First thing to fix was a pinhole leak in a heater pipe. No idea what it's called so if anybody knows let me know so I can pinch a new one. I think the engine is a 4G52. Dunno. I'm learning on the job with this mitsi. Mike I'm sure told me but I forgot.
After a bit of linishing it showed up a couple of holes.
I just put the tig on a low setting and poured some filler rod into and around it to goop up the whole area. Can't say I trust it that much but it is holding water so far and it's temporary.
I have dropped the wheels off for a new set of shoes to be put on and this evening I'll plug up a rust hole in the B pillar. It's paper thin there so I might have to get creative so I'm not chasing my tail blowing holes all over the show.
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On 02/02/2024 at 08:55, yoeddynz said:
Evil green stuff
Kills pets too. Won't somebody please think of Kevin.
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I didn't know gun wash was a thing so I'll have to check it out. I just buy my thinners in bulk and use that.
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1 hour ago, igor said:
Someone replaced what they considered to be the most important thing then ran out of money/motivation?
Not sure really. It looks like a finished project at some point. Ill be able to take loads of parts off it for mine.
Just where it was on the coastline in Welly it was always going to get smashed by salt.
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2 hours ago, tortron said:
It amazes me that image search can telle that's a land rover enginebay.
All the rust?
This landy is odd. Absolutely rusted to shit but has a galvanized chassis that looks brand new.
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I picked up a spares land rover S3 with a diesel. Anybody know what it is?
Dead reg and no plates so no way for me to tell.
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I recall those two batteries under the seat.
What a great car. I owned one many years ago and it was built like a tank. Very easy to weld in any patches.
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She looks like a beauty! A 3.5 diff will make it much more livable.
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For any big Chev parts I used Charlton Auto from Gore. I have bought gearboxes from them before.
If you have a short diff then get a T56 and if the diff is in the 2's then I would go 4 speed. For carb choice I got 7 litres saved per 100km with a quadrajet over an edelbrock.
Everything is expensive these days however marketplace prob the cheapest place to look.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1536298060551851/?mibextid=dXMIcH
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/6964925783630541/?mibextid=dXMIcH
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Thanks to @yoeddynz not copywriting his shifter set up I copied his.
Came out reasonably well I thought. The centre shaft bearing is a little sloppy but Ill see how it drives before replacing it with a rose joint. Maybe with the engine vibration it needs a little play. Ill have to confirm the shifting pattern when I get the half shafts back too.
Really unhappy with how my welder is performing so before I do any more welding I need to purchase a new one. It'll do for this job however. I had a wire feed problem that I have fixed but it is temperamental. Sometimes it produces a nice weld and others it just blobs right up to the tip. Frustrating.
The shifter is a VW shaft slid down inside the stock Imp shifter and rosette welded in a few places as well as round the collar.
Still need to make the cover for it that will fit under the seat yet but I'll get onto that asap.
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Not sure if you're keeping the running gear as is but resist the urge to move to a 700r4. Don't be like me.
Love this car.
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So I finally got the engine mounted into the Imp with the freeway flyer gearbag. A lot of installing and uninstalling to see what works best where. As usually with these things it is a case of compromise and the least shit option which is to be expected. With the adapter plate and the VW being a bigger box I thought it would push the engine past the rear crossmember. Turns out that it's actually a shorter box and the engine was back towards the front by several inches. Therefore the carbs were hitting the firewall. Did not expect that one!
So I had to make up a new gearbox mount bracket that pushed it rearwards 50mm. It will make the hump under the seat easier to make and possibly the linkage. New one installed here with me holding up the old one.
The one issue this cause was that the output shafts on the gearbox are now further back. Annoying but seeing as there was always an angle to them it isn't that big of a deal. Except now the half shafts foul the exhaust. They had to come off and Ill have to cut a bit of length out of them.
So out the pipes came and I got to chopping off the ends of the half shafts to line them up.
I lined them up as best I could and scribed them for the engineer.
I scribed them at full CV range with the wheel side at suspension stock level so I assume the engineer will weld it in the middle. He is a clever guy and I didn't want to tell him how to do his job so I'm interested to see what he comes up with.
I took them in at lunch and he'll get around to it when he can. He promised to tack them up and I'll double check they fit ok before he finalises it.
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5 hours ago, cubastreet said:
Always been happy with my XA welders. You can borrow for a hoon if you like. Probably over ten years old now, but similar to this one maybe.
Ta. Looks like they are sold from that tool shop just past ITM in Masterton.
Adoom's 1975 Reliant Scimitar. Discussion.
in Project Discussion
Posted
Just what are you suggesting?
Honestly though I can't remember as this was years ago. You'll have to follow your heart/undies.