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Everything posted by dmulally

  1. So as expected the spark plug change fixed the hard starting issue. There is still some hesitation on the throttle which is down to one of a few things in my mind. Either the choke needs to be connected (I haven't really driven it that far but it does seem to get better the more it drives), there is a blockage in the carb, or the car just needs to stretch it's legs and blow off some cobwebs. In prepping for a pre-wof I found a light out (you can see it in the first pic of this thread) so raided my stash and went around the car putting in new lights. I changed my s-type bulbs to LED and had a few left over so changed the dash globes for them. Talk about a difference! I still need new gauges however so I'll sort out the dash properly when I get a chance. The fake radiator grill comes off this week so I'll likely get started on prepping for a quick and nasty paint job then. Hmmm pics aren't working so I'll put them up when it works for me.
  2. More for my own reference: 1: 175psi 2: 185psi 3: 185psi 4: 180psi
  3. I'll try and book it in for a pre wof inspection and let that dictate the project. Hopefully not too much as I have a shedload of work to do on the Chev this year. There is some rust in the wings of the Imp which hopefully isn't all bog and it is in desperate need of a repaint. I'll probably keep it green but just a little more subtle. It does have a hard starting issue which after pulling a plug seems a likely culprit. Hopefully an easy fix. There is a little hesitation issue when I put my foot down I'm hoping is related to the plugs but I'll soon find out when I do the switcharoo. Might do a compression test at the same time. Being an imp I won't take it on any decent drives on a warm day until I have a temp gauge installed. I'm also going to give Silverdale radiators a buzz this week for an auxiliary front radiator as it already has the plumbing in place. One of the worst jobs I have ever done on any car was feeding those through the body so might as well make the most of it.
  4. This followed me home. It's a 1965 mk1 and reasonably stock. Plan will be to get it back onto the road and then upgrade bits and bobs here and there until the engine kicks a leg out of bed and then see how I feel.
  5. Funny you mentioned that. The 3 phase arc welders are a few hundred bucks if that. Good thinking. Looking forward to getting a big boy compressor too.
  6. I'm about to get 3 phase put into my presently off grid shed. Is it worth making the jump to a three phase welder? I have a 200amp Cebora MIG welder now that I very very rarely run more than half strength via a 10kva generator. But I do have a bulldozer on the to do list which will take some grunt to weld up some decent cracks.
  7. I don't go to anybody else. I park down the street so he can't see me pulling up and hide.
  8. Nothing really. All were good points and tbh I knew that it would get pinged on the smoke and it isn't as if smokey engines fix themselves. Old mate who did it was really helpful and he wasn't being a dick at all. Can't say the same for VTNZ. It's just that Certifier/LVV have a long list. VTNZ had a long list. Now when I think I'm finally done and dusted, I have yet another long list. Each list take around 12 months to complete and cost between 10-20k. I might just sell it as a project and put it down to tuition fees.
  9. Big fat fail sadly. The big cloud upon start up was enough to ping it even though it does go away eventually. Not to mention the 50 other things that LVV and VTNZ passed that he has decided they shouldn't have. Looks like the eternal project remains what it is. Why oh why did I have to move when I already had a great wof guy... I really need a less stressful hobby than old cars.
  10. Nah. It's only a little smoke and isn't using any oil noticeably. After years of it being a project I'm happy for it to just work. When it finally throws a leg out of bed it'll be a good excuse to put in a diesel truck engine like I've always wanted to do. I'm just sick of it being a project. Plus whilst I'm building a cabin it it better than a box trailer.
  11. Ta. It's always a bit nervy going to a new wof place after leaving an area where the wof guy was really helpful. Pity it is a 3 hour journey back or I'd go back there. If anybody knows an old car WOF specialist in the South Wairarapa please shoot me a message.
  12. I have had my chev V8 rebuilt and it smokes a little on startup. Stinks of burnt oil and is blueish. A quick rev and it goes away so my guess is that one of the rings might be shot seeing as I had all new valve stem seals put in. Haven't compression tested it yet however. Does anybody know what is needed for a wof in regards to smoke? I have just moved to a new area so haven't figured out who are the better ones with old cars yet.
  13. I've helped complete an EV in Australia and looked into it seriously in NZ. Whilst there are a few turn key companies in NZ that will help you out, you're on a hiding to nothing trying to get anything remotely cost effective out of them for the DIYer. You can look at importing from AU or USA but then you'll get stung at the border for whatever they feel like charging you that day as well as no easy warranty option. I'm still looking at another EV conversion but doing it for a vintage tractor. I can keep the volts low and use older DC forklift technology. Plus having battery weight in a tractor is good for me. To do a car in NZ either you need to look at getting a written off leaf and get chopping, or for a bespoke option with decent power and range you'll be closer to 100k than 50k.
  14. dmulally


    If you just want a home job go 2k basecoat. Comes off kind of plasticy but you can get away with two coats and can always buff it a few months later.
  15. Does anyone know if this will work with an Altezza box? Edit: Ignore that. It'll be this.
  16. Here is how the linkages work. Three rose joints and 7 gears including reverse. The speedo sender below is just taunting me at this point.
  17. Honestly I think it is just new cables being a poor fit inside the liner. The original one was a lot easier to spin in my hand than any of the new ones. Cheers for the heads up though. Next task is to actually find one. I'll scooch under there a little later and put some pics back up here for ya of the linkages. It is all commer at the front and the difference in throwing distance is about 250mm. No kidding.
  18. Like this? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/toyota/electrics/listing/3222354539?bof=FLF9xzQ0
  19. Honestly no idea. I'm willing to try anything though and would need a matching speedo.
  20. Ok. Four cables and one mechanical sender from overseas later and I'm admitting defeat on the commer. I can't believe something as pathetic as a speedo cable has kept it off the road for months now. I'm going to change to electronic and be done with it. Looking at this little doozy: https://new.speedhut.com/accessories/sensors/speed-sensors/magnetic-htz-universal-speedometer-sensor/ Does anybody know what this would attach to and what would I put on the other end to trigger it? Drum brake backing plate pointing at wheel? Tailshaft? Don't want to throw anything out of balance etc.
  21. Blimey. Sounds like he had an axe to grind. How refreshing.
  22. If I hear anything different I'll let you know. Thanks. My long suffering wof guy is used to the crap I bring in and we have a really good relationship by now. I'm moving soon and he is the only person I'll miss in this shitty town.
  23. One old and bold I spoke to with the same engine in another car made a little sump with a tap that bolted onto the bellhousing. It has an Something similar to the below which is pretty funny. I don't believe my engine even has a rear main seal. Just a slinger that is supposed to send oil back into the sump.
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