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Posts posted by dmulally
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I keep hearing about Demio's being easy to steal. Even more reason to have a fake coil lead (no wire inside) or hidden kill switch for Upper Hutt Station.
Pretty brazen it was taken around 5pm as it would be busy as shit around then. I suppose what are people to do if they see a car being stolen? You could call the police but not as if they aren't flat out doing other stuff. -
9 minutes ago, shizzl said:
6bd1s are indestructible. But slow.
we had them in buses. Torquey and smooth. Turbo may change its slowness.
The 4BE1 I do have is quite compact and it revs more than the 4BD1 but dont have as much power. Figured it would be more relevant in a car.
6BD1 would be a bit of a logistics nightmare but would be pretty cruisey.
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TROUBLE IN PARADISE!
Whilst bogan tetris-ing my cars round the shed I found the Imp even harder to start than usual (still havent connected the choke yet). I checked the engine and noticed it was low on coolant. I could have sworn I always kept it topped up so checked the dipstick. It was a caramel milkshake in there.Ironically I decided on the weekend that I was going to sell it. I guess I'll have to spend a shit load of cash first unless somebody wants to low ball me an offer I can't refuse on it.
Time for Phase 2 of the Imp project to begin.
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I wonder if there is an easy way to disable an old diesel. I know the isuzu runs on a single wire to the fuel pump solenoid. It would be pretty easy to put a kill switch in it but also be pretty simple to run a hot wire to it.
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1 hour ago, zep said:
Mate I'll support anyone dropping an Isuzu engine into anything!
Do you know anything about 6bd1's?
I have a 4BE1 to plop into my chev but a 6BD1 might fit in the same place. A turbo one at that. They look to be the same bellhousings but am not 100% sure. -
9 minutes ago, zep said:
I guess that depends on how much it means to you. I'd want to at least know what happened even if it's fucked.
Well I was thinking about taking out the 350 small block of my 66 Chev Ute and putting in an isuzu diesel. Anybody who would steal that would be mentally ill.
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3 minutes ago, fuel said:
Are you an iPhone user? If so I would just hide a bunch of AirTags in the vehicle. You can even pull apart the AirTags and disable the internal speaker so it doesn't beep when there are 'unknown' iPhone users around it for a certain period of time.
Nah I'm an android pleb as I need a rugged phone on the farm.
A bit of googling suggests this:
https://www.utrack.co.nz/product/ut4g50-4g-gps-tracker/This 4G GPS tracker works based on existing 4G network and GPS satellites, This GPS Tracker is magnetic and will suit a lot of different applications to name a few,
- Boats
- Trailers
- Plant Equipment
- Vehicles
Dimensions – 60mm wide X 112mm long X 22mm high.
Standby time – 4-6 Weeks
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Just a mild thread bump here.
After a life altering experience I have made the tough decision to thin the herd and get my fleet of about 10 vehicles down to 2.5. The 0.5 being a racing car. Whilst trying to decide what I'll keep and which to get rid of I was factoring in daily drivability/economy as well as not having a car that could be easily pinched. Now I'm thinking I really shouldn't live life that way. It's too boring.
So had a bit of a search and found this thread. Does anybody have any 2023 updates? Are jammers still a thing or a myth? I want to be able to park my 66 Chev at Upper Hutt station with a little more security than pulling off the coil lead to put in my pocket. -
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22 hours ago, STB said:
Ha just looked a bit more and read the thread… Yours has the correct 6cyl cab floor and engine cover and wheels and obv is a dual rear so , is def a 550fg…
Lovely looking truck and thanks for posting.
Just wondering if you know the GVM of the 550fg? I'm still not sure what it falls under but I'd be keen to put it through a wof if possible so was going to swap to a single wheel diff. -
11 hours ago, HumberSS said:
Had I have known we have piles of fresh zincalum scrap offcuts lying around at work!
The way steel prices are at the moment it's almost worth the trip
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$10 and 25 mins away.
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I couldnt get through to them so put it on the backburner to attend to some dramas with my s-type.
I'll just have to keep an eye open whilst doing the rest of the truck as it is holding water for now anyway.
Next thing to sort will be the rust. I have bought a door from a 1930's pommy something and pick it up this weekend. Only $10 and cheaper than buying fresh steel from Steel and Tube.
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Also the diff has to be swapped. After the power wash and the engine dried off I took it for a drive down the road. First gear is unusable like most light trucks but 4th feels like 2nd. I thought the diff was 4.5:1 but It's in the 6 or 7's. It's able to easily take off in 4th!
I might look into a GMC or 9" swap as loads of ratios and easily enough to convert to dual wheels with off the shelf bits.
I couldn't be bothered to stuff around with an overdrive conversion. Although the gearbox is green which was news to me.
Another thing I have to do is move the shifter. Quite impressive that you scrape your knucks going to second as well as up to third. Not to mention it's behind you so have to find it.
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So managed to get it wired up enough to be able to run again. I have the thermostat housing bolted on as best I can and glued too. One thing I noted is that the corolla housing is pointing another direction to the original. So either I need a new radiator or to redirect the top outlet so it points the right way. Not a biggy. When I drive it inside for some rust work I might have a go at tig welding the broken housing up. Or at least melting the bolt in place.
I ran the engine for a good 20 mins to see if the housing would leak and so far so good. I think until I can find a new lower housing to bolt on it will just have to do. All the valves are free and moving too although there is a slight miss occasionally. I think what it needs is a good long run at 2500rpms on the highway to clear the throat. The rebuilt carby hasn't even been dialed yet and starts on the smallest of choke. I'll still have to adjust the valves yet but am in no rush to do that yet.- 14
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13 minutes ago, Nominal said:
Might be worth a call / visit to Horopito Motors?
What's the best way to deal with them? Email, call, visit?
It's about 4 hours away from me so I can't exactly pop in easily sadly. -
1 hour ago, locost_bryan said:
Since Austin based the engine on the Chevy Stovebolt 6, as did Bedford, either of those may prove to be donors?
From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Stovebolt_engine :-
This engine was also used in GM's British Bedford truck. In the late 1930s rival Austin decided to get into the 2-3 ton truck ("lorry") market and in a crash program based the design on the basic architecture of this "Stove Bolt" engine, except that they added detachable shell main and con-rod bearings and pressurized lubrication.
Good shout. The bedford 6's especially are everywhere. I did have a Chev 250 full oil pressure one that I scrapped a year or two back. Bugger.
A couple of hours in and the housing hasnt started leaking yet.
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Ok slight change of plans. The truck cert guy said I should really really not bother with an engine repower without getting it registered first. I've spent the last day or so researching the TD42 and can only dream.
So quick question: What is the neck called that the thermostat housing bolts to? I'll need to find a new one but don't know the name. I'll likely have to shop in England so have to find one. I could always fabricate one but would rather not. The other thing I could do is get a generic pommy 6 cylinder and just hope the VTNZ dude is under the age of 50 when first registering it.
To try and scrape through in the meantime I have retapped the bolt holes with a more course thread and jammed some bolts on and glued the t-housing on with right stuff which I have had good luck with in the past. I didn't have the right length bolts so improvised. m presently having it sit cold full of water and I'll check throughout the day to see if it weeps. There is a chunk of cast iron in the water pump so if it stays water tight I'll pull it off and go fishing for it somehow.
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7 minutes ago, ThePog said:
Same same, starter wiring, single wire to the fuel cut off.
Plus peripheral stuff like glow plugs and associated relays.
Also I have a good short block here if you can find a head and ancilliaries, but I guess a complete engine would be better.
Are you please able to chuck a tape measure over one by any chance? I can take some pics/measurements of the engine bay first if you like.
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13 hours ago, HumberSS said:
What about that TS3 Commer knocker. That thing needs a home. If your dead set on the diesel going into the c20 then perhaps the SB chev ends up in the Morris!
The TS3 is waaaay too wide. As is the daimler V8.
What will fit so far that I have in stock:Isuzu 4b diesel (with some mods)
Holden 202
Essex V6
Slight issue is that the truck cert guy wants to know the GVM as he thinks it is for a car cert person. I sent him the sales brochures I had and a guess. See what he says I guess.
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LOUVRES pressed in alloy bonnet: who does this?
in Tech Talk
Posted
Bump!
Anybody have any recommendations on who can do this in the north island?
Cheers